model mayhem gallery
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Posts posted by model mayhem gallery
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<p>I like your original idea of going with a 17-55 F2.8. I think you need to shoot a while with a 7D to determine what you like or don't like. I shoot with a Canon 5D II and my favorite lens is my Canon 17-40 F4L and Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VR. <br>
For me I just could not justify the expense of a Canon 24-70 F2.8 II when I take great portraits with a kit lens. I purchased the Canon 85 1.2L wanting the best portrait lens I could get but made mostt of my best customers shooting with the original Tamron 28-75 F2.8 which I got for $399 new with 5 year warranty.<br>
No one in my family has ever said you should have used a L-series lens to shoot Thanksgiving dinner as your quality is not good enough.<br>
PS if you need a longer lens I absolutely love my Tamron 70-300 F4-5.6 VR even more than the Canon 70-200 F4 IS. Which are both absolutely great.<br>
My advice to you is to get one lens at a time and shoot to determine your style and how high up the latter you need to go to find an acceptable solution. Just buying the most expensive is not always the right answer.</p>
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<p>Unless you do video or absolutely hate using flash I would go with as I did the 28 1.8, 50 1.8 and 85 1.2L (85 1.8 is great option). For wide angle i went with the 17-40 F4L. Personaly I wanted the fastest primes I could afford. <br>
Anything I need in the F2.8 range will always be a zoom. Why by a prime if it is not substantially faster than my zooms which all also have IS or VR? Also , a prime F2.8 with IS still seems restrictive when compared to my Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VR which in my opionion is every bit a sharp as my primes. <br>
I really don't choose a lens for its personallity and all that, I bring that to the pictue not the lens.</p>
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<p>I would suggest purchasing what has been tried and tested on 5D Mark II. Personally, I always manual focus. Hopwever, I would not purchase a lens for my 5d2 that can no auto-focus if i need it to or one which requires adapters to even mount. Why? There are such excellent low priced primes and third-party zoom made for this camera. I.E. Canon 50 1.8, 85 1.8, Tamron 24-70 VR, Sigma 70-200 F2.8, etc.<br>
I shoot both film and digital and I have learned the hard way you can't make your digital camera work like your old film camera...</p>
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Elinchrome Quadra hard to beat if you need head and pack.</p>
<p>I never take a head and pack outdoors as I hate wires. I use Alien Bee's Einstiens with a vagabon and wireless triggers which rach 500+ feet and can trigger multiple strobes a long distance from me and no central pack to run wires to. Light quality is equl, If I need more power I add a WhiteLightning X1600 and an additional vagabon which I velcro to the lightstands.</p>
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<p>I have seen this done with something more powerfull like the Elinchrome Quadra head and pack kits like this: <a href="http://www.elinchrom.com/product/Quadra-Hybrid-RX.html">http://www.elinchrom.com/product/Quadra-Hybrid-RX.html</a><br>
A good pole is the photoflex light reach plus <a href="http://vimeo.com/59772992">http://vimeo.com/59772992</a> <a href="http://photoflex.com/products/litereach-plus">http://photoflex.com/products/litereach-plus</a><br>
However, for single person with just an ETTL flash I think a bracket on camera works best. The further away you get the flash the more power you loose and more of a chance the light will not be where you want it. Having the light from too high above will cause harsh shadows under eyes, cheeks and chin. I prefer my strober more direct and using ettl without softboxes or other things to affect the light. Outdoors atmosphere already diffuses light pretty well.</p>
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<p>I have both of those lens and they are great and I don't think an upgrade is needed for either. However, I had the exact same problem until I realized 2 things.<br>
1. You really can't shoot wide open at 1.8 or "shorter\larger" and get sharp images without a tripod. Any little movements ever so slight by you or the subject will cause out of focus issues.<br>
2. I always use manual focus when shooting apertures largre than F2.8. You can not depend on the camera to know what you want to be sharp only your eye can do this espeacially at F2.0 of F1.8.<br>
3. Trick of the trade... With camera on tripod use live view to zoom in 100% and manually focus to get super sharp focus. This is only Live View Zoom not actually zooming the lens. Once you have sharp focus on say eyes then take the shot. Autofocus will be hit and miss and generaly not get details right at larger apertures.<br>
Its like shooting a rifle a 1000 yards if everything is not perfect encluding your form and supports you will be way off.</p>
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<p>I fail to see the issue here? I htink you have a great setup. 24-105 F4 IS for a great travel and studio portrait lens. For high quality shallow DOF or for video work the primes rule hands down bigger apertures and primes for video because powerful lighting is more expensive than bigger apertures.<br>
I shoot with Tamron F2.8 VR zooms and fast primes and don't waste tooo much money on super expensive F2.8 zooms. I get excited about a lens when it is F1.8 or faster.</p>
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<p>I fail to see the issue here? I htink you have a great setup. 24-105 F4 IS for a great travel and studio portrait lens. For high quality shallow DOF or for video work the primes rule hands down bigger apertures and primes for video because powerful lighting is more expensive than bigger apertures.<br>
I shoot with Tamron F2.8 VR zooms and fast primes and don't waste tooo much money on super expensive F2.8 zooms. I get excited about a lens when it is F1.8 or faster.</p>
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<p>I shoot video with 5Dii and have never had it overheat and shutdown camera. I never set camera on tripod and walk away so I am always there to start againg when it stops. It only take half a second to hit the stop\start button it is not even noticable even in continous video.<br>
However, I do agree Canon DSLR are very hard to shoot video with and i would also recommend a regualr video camera unless you are specifically looking for the DSLR movie look.</p>
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<p>I shoot with the Canon 5D II and the 28 1.8 and love it. I can't understand why anyone whould buy a prime that only does F2.8? I have my Tamron 24-70 VC F2.8 which covers that range and speed. If I need to take my zoom off it is for one reason SPEED. In my opinion the 24-70 zooms are just about equal to primes at the same speed and focal length. Actually, the Tamron 24 is a little better in the corners at 28mm than my prime. However, nothing beats my 28 1.8 in a low light situation espeacially when I am shooting HD video and want to really isolate the subject and blur everything else.<br>
The 28 1.8 is made much better than the 35 F2.0 and 50 1.8 although I have and use all three and they work fine on 5D II.<br>
PS - if you go with an F2.8 lenses you will probably be much happier with a zoom in the 24-70 range. This is hands down my main lens on 5D2. Then get the primes later...</p>
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<p>There are many Canon authorized dealers and repair locations which may charge less than Canon and may not require mailing it in.<br>
However, if it is water damage you are correct Canon or BH will most likely not honor this as a warranty repair. It is a good chance it may dry and resolves itself over time. I would try storing it without the lens attached. <br>
I have on occasion had to shoot in the rain and no damage to my 5D II occured but I was shooting a $5000 music video so it was worth it if damage did occur. Other, than tha I never get my camera wet even though I do use water resistent lenses.</p>
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<p>Yea, espeacially when so many of the things which will happen to your camera like someone spilling a drink on it or dropping it, will not be covered by the warranty anyway.</p>
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<p>The Canon 70-200 F4 (non-IS) with a 1.4 extender will NOT be better than a Tamron 70-300 VC F4-5.6. I shoot with both and I would put the Tamron a step ahead of the Canon 70-200 F4 at F4 and 200mm with VC on when shooting handheld at 1\200. Far ahead if shooting at 200mm F4 at 1\100 and even further ahead at 300mm F5.6 when the Canon has the extender added shooting handheld at 1\200 with no IS.<br>
I would go with the Tamron 70-300 VC just because it is so cheap. I got mine for $399.00.<br>
I also agree with the person who said look at the Sigma 150-500 if it is only $100 more will get you a lot more reach for only a little more money.</p>
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<p>Got it... Had I known he had already made a decesion I would have never even responded. But Oh well different strokes for different folks.</p>
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<p>I have to agree with Arie. I think the lenses he recommended plus all the lenses you currently own. But you also need to add the Canon 24-70 F2.8 II. Carry all of these with you own your trip but don't carry them on the plane check your luggage in a Tamrac type Camera bag which clearly says "Expensive Photography Equipment."<br>
So that Sarah doesn't get me too "Just Kidding"...</p>
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<p>Depends on price. I have several 580 EX II and have not even thought of upgrading.</p>
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<p>I've only ever used one the Sekonic L-358 which I have not used in so long I have no idea where it is. Since I stopped shooting film just didn't need it anymore for my digital work.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>Why would anyone with a 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II even consider a non-L 70-300? They're not in the same league. I'm sure the OP want to maintain very close to the same IQ that he now has and is beyond buying based on price.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Sorry, Where does it say he has a 70-200 F2.8 IS II? I did not realize the cheaper version of the Canon 70-300 were so bad. I was thinking more the 70-300 IS L which is considerably more expensive.<br>
I shoot with a Tamron 70-300 VR which in my opinion compares well with the Canon 70-200 F2.8 IS I with an extender.<br>
handheld 70-300 with no editing done. the other done with a Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VR<br>
<p>However, I do not believe I need an L-series lens to get great shots or great image quality. Yes, when required I shoot with L-series primes like the famous 85 1.2L but I will easily swithch to my cheap Tamron 70-300 or Tamron 24-70 in the same shoot and not worry about a big loss in image quality. <br>
I personally never use extenders as I just don't like the way they feel when hanging a big lens like a 70-200 F2.8 off my 5D mark II with an extender.</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>I have the same problem with Adobe Lightroom. It does not automatically detect my Tamron 24-70 either. I have to manually select it...</p>
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<p>Probably a problem with the camera you should dump that Nikon and get a Canon.<br>
Just kidding...<br>
Try downloading a trial copy of Sony Vegas or Adobe Premiere pro and see if the output for youtube gives different results.</p>
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<p>Nither, <a href="http://www.radiopopper.com/">http://www.radiopopper.com/</a><br>
I use Cybersyncs, but only because I baught them before I knew about these. You can control power with these on any strobe.</p>
<p> </p>
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$69<br>
I use these cards for my Canon 5D mark II primarily for shooting videos. However, beacuse thet do support UDMA I can do unlimited busting on my 5D II until the card is full. Buffering is in the camera not the card...<br>
I used to be a die hard Sandisk Extreme guy until I lost a card and had to use a friends cheapo card. Guess what, I couldn't tell the difference at all even when it came o transfereing files to my laptop using a USB 3.0 cardreader.<br>
Save your money and get the biggest UDMA cards you can get...</p>
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$69<br>
I use these cards for my Canon 5D mark II primarily for shooting videos. However, beacuse thet do support UDMA I can do unlimited busting on my 5D II until the card is full. Buffering is in the camera not the card...<br>
I used to be a die hard Sandisk Extreme guy until I lost a card and had to use a friends cheapo card. Guess what, I couldn't tell the difference at all even when it came o transfereing files to my laptop using a USB 3.0 cardreader.<br>
Save your money and get the biggest UDMA cards you can get...</p>
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<p>Why not just get a Canon 70-300 IS F4-5.6 for $369 It's less than the extender and if you ever get two bodies you could have different lens on each..</p>
Water / 5D Mkii HELP needed
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
<p>Be careful of making one bad decision after the other. I agree I would never put my 5D2 in rice for 2 days. Who knows what other problems that may cause like getting rice dust in camera which eventually scratches the sensor or gettign inside the body and len becoming visable in your shots.<br>
Just accept the lost and send it directly to authorized repair and remember to think of camera a delicate piece of equipment which requires great care. </p>