model mayhem gallery
-
Posts
1,183 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by model mayhem gallery
-
-
<p>I noticed Louise never responded again in this forum so I will assume it to be a troll. I have shot with both the 5D2 and 5D3. There is just so many ways to adjust these settings I would certainly say this is user error not the camera.</p>
-
<p>I personally would never buy a DSLR which doesn't have video which is better than my sons Android phone, My Iphone 4S or Gallayx S4 which are all capable of HD video. I currenbtly make all my money doing on youtube.com making short video adds and comercials with my 5D2 and 85 1.2L lens. I personally absolutely love the video capabilities of the new DSLR's and have been amazed at how quickly my kids have learned to make videos. </p>
<blockquote>
<p>They are absolutely not interested or impressed with still photos as tell a story which pictures that don't move or have sound is quite boring to anyone who uses twitter, youtube, facebook hulu, Facebook, etc. Everything now is about the video. Capturing police brutality or car accident live as it is happening.<br>
I think cameras which do not do video will be obsolete like film cameras soon as they just don't playu a role in whats important "Social Media". Anyone who has a smartphone, Tablet, or Internet connected TV wants HD Video. Not just video HD video. And everything can and should be able to do this now. Think about how much every phone having video capabilities is changing the way police act in now. Crimes in general, someone hit and run all I got to do is record thier license plate.<br>
Video in my opinion is like the eveolution of silent movies to sound or black and white to color. Yes, it is more complicated, but I also think it is much more rewarding for those of us who have taken the time to truely master our DSLR's which which we have already paid in full.</p>
</blockquote>
-
<p>Wow really? First, my customers always get a big kick when I take their pictures with the lens cap still on. So I generally take off the lens cap before doing any professional shooting. I shoot with a Caon 5D Mark II with 55 1.2L lens, the other day a customer was at my studion getting copies of some shots we took several years ago. They were amazed at how sharp and clear my pictures were. However, I tried to point out the the pictures I had done for them was with my much older camera, Canon 30D with kit lens. A toy I no longer even use. However, they swore that they prefered the older pictures dine with that camera more than the new ones with the 5D2 and L-series lens. Reason, why is they felt they looked more natural and the new ones are so sharp they look cartoonish. <br>
Long story short is I stopped talking and kindly collected the money for the reprints from my very happy customers.</p>
-
<p>This type of stuff doesnt make me nearly as sick as developer and dark rooms. Do Not format the card this will only make it harder to recover your pictures. Also do not continue shooting new pictures on it. Go to Best Buy and get a handheld card reader. It looks like a IPOD, has a little internal 60 GB hard disk and ports for CF and SD cards. This allow you a safe place to copy your files to before moving them to your computer.<br>
Also, try plugging your camera into the computer using the USB cable. This should make the SD card availabe through the camera driver and protect it from viruses. It will be slower than using a card reader but safer than plugging SD card directly into computer. <br>
If al else fails use a diffeent computer to try reading SD card and try recovery software to get the pictues back. They are most likely still on the cards as long as you haven't overwritten or let the computer do any kind of disk repairs.</p>
-
<p>Actually you can Enable and Dsiable Exposure Simlulation. When I disable Exp Sim on my 5D2 I got the same results you are describing. Try turning your exposure simulation off and then back on again following the link below.<br>
-
<p>I have had both real Canon and third party ones. I have noticed the non-Canon one are made out of thinner plastics, I have had problems with the shutter button not being responsive on third party and the big screw which holds it to the camera not staying or fitting tight to the camera body. For me i would spend the extra $80 bucks and get a 100% USA made Canon with warranty. There is actually quite a bit of electronics in these. Otherwise I would really save my money and get the lowest prices one I could find. But, would always get a warrant they do and can break without needing to be dropped.</p>
-
<p>Sounds normal for a Full Frame camera. I ran into this when I went from shooting with a 30D crop sensor camera to a full frame camera. You get a much wider field of view.</p>
-
<p>Ulimately it depends on how you use your camera. I shoot just as much HD video with my 5D2 as i do photos so I went Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC. The VC for handheld Video where shutter speed is often 1/30 @70 mm is very important to me. More so than any advantages in IQ the Canon 24-70 F2.8 II may have. Build quality is on par and has a 6 year warranty what more could you want? </p>
-
<p>The OP said she has the 550 with the twin kit lens. She then says she has the 70-300 DC. However there is no 70-300 DC lens only the 75-300 III DC.<br /> http://www.digitaltoyshop.co.uk/CANON_Lens_EF_75-300mm_f4-5_6_III_DC_t1652_5547<br /> However, I do agree with what Sarah and Rob are essentially saying. I upgraded my Canon 30D to a 5D II. Sold all my L-series lenses and have happily downgraded to Tamron 70-300 VC and Tamron 24-70 F2.8 VC. The Tamron 70-300 VC was only $399 and to me sdoes the job every bit as good as a L-series lens.<br /> <br />So just spending more money is not always the answer. However, If the 75-300 DC is really what you have there are definitely better lenses. But, that does not always have to be a L-series lens to get substantially better IQ. The rest is up to your skills.</p>
<p>This is one of the best lenses I have ever used for the money. I sold my Canon 85 1.2L after getting this lens as it is actually lighter and at F4 just as good as the L was at F4. I prefer Image Stabilaztion for video project and more zoom than the beautiful blur at 1.2 because too hard to focus that wide open in low light. So as you can see my needs were different than what others may be.<br /> http://www.tamron.com/en/photolens/di_telephoto/a005.html<br>
I got mine with $100 rebate like this one ended up only being $399. I absolutely love it.<br>
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Tamron-70-300mm-f-4-5.6-Di-VC-Lens-Review.aspx</p>
-
<p>I suggest the above recommendation because there is actually nothing wrong with your card and I would NOT recommend scan and fixing it. There are reports of people doing this and then not being able to recover their files.<br>
You are correct and dead on with the description. The actual problem is some CF cards handle the recycle bin differently than Windows. This is often cards which may have their own recovery software like Lexar cards. The end result is Windows can't read the recycle bin and thinks it's corrupt so tries to fix it. After formatting a CF card the recycle bin is only created after you delete something.<br>
I suspect if the first time you deleted a file off the in the computer then put it in the camera you could delete in camera and not get this error when putting back in computer. You would have to make sure you have set deleted files go to recycle bin for the card when its in computer. This is not default for removable devices</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>Here is the place I baught mine. If you want good LED light on a budget this is going to be hard to beat. I went with 4 of the 1000 LED panels but I had the money back then. I sometimes find them to be too bright and wish I had went with more but smaller panels. Often placement is more important than power.<br>
-
<p>Damn I hate giving up my secretes. But they already gave you half the story here is the other half.<br>
The secrete is... You can use the Vagabon Lithium batteries (not the whole vagabon just the 12v batteries) to power the LED light panels for actually a couple of hours. This is by far the cheapest way I have found to power my video lights. I have 4 12x12 1000 LED panels 4 - AB800 the original Vagabon and about 6 or 7 spare batteries. Their like $39 which is dirt cheap compared to other options. <br>
Some of the LED light panels also have 12v video batteries slots on the back but those are smaller yes, but awfully expensive.<br>
PS - the modeling lights on any AB800 will drain the battery in just a few minutes. As soon as you turn on the tungton light on a battery source the battery inverter will start to hum or beep because it is being overloaded. However, I can run 2 - 3 LED light panels at full power on 1 Vagabon I. For Vagabon mini not sure but I would look at one for each panel.<br>
Then you have to ask yourself do you really need strobe. I find I am sometimes more creating with continous lighting as I use a lot of primes that are 2.8 and faster. Can't use thes with strobes at all because I can not get the strobe power down low enough with a sync of 1/200 to use an F1.2 lens. However, this works great with panels....</p>
-
<p>When you say "multiple exposure" shots is you goal to alter the power of the strobes power with each flash (strobe bracketing)? I have never seen any strobes which can do that. If it is just taking multiple shots reduce power and click the shutter as fast as you can. Some shots will be underexposed but you would get what you requested. <br>
In terms of bracketing you could bracket the camera to take 5 shots in a row all at different exposures ie -5 to +5 but the flash power would remain constant.</p>
-
<p>I agree, a second B800 is actually your stating point. I hated mixing ttl flash with strobes. I tried this with 2 Canon 580 EXII and an AB800. I was sick at the end of the day to find many of my shots came out messed up because the AB800 was firing at the preflash from the 580EXII's and firing again with a not fully charged second flash when the 580 EXII fired again. I finally had to use cybersyncs for my 580EXII's which eleiminate the preflash altogether, However, now I have 4 AB800, 4 AB1600 and 1 WL1600 and a vagabon. So never looked back to TTL flashes again except for on camera stuff which I still do pretty often also.</p>
-
<p>IQ is generally based on the quality of your lens, not the quality of your camera. My main camera is a Canon 5DII howeverm I am able to move my lenses to an old Canon ELAN 7NE and with L-series lenses get exceptional IQ. <br>
I even shoot with an old Canon 30D which when paired with Canon 85 1.2L still yields great photos. However, when shooting with a cheap lens even on my 5D2 the IQ can be terrible.<br>
So , as most will tell you purchase good glass as you will always upgrade camera bodies.</p>
-
<p>Looks good. Getting great separation from black backdrop even with dark colored dogs. </p>
-
<p>I would save your money get the Canon 28 1.8. To me speed in a prime is what makes its look unique. In other words there will be more difference in a 28 1.8 than Nikon 28 2.8 on a Canon 5d. The Samya 24 1.4. When dealing with really large aperture lenses you generally have to manual focus anyway because of such narrow DOF.</p>
-
<p>Sigma also makes a great flash for Canon camera's I think its cal the DG super ofr something but definetely worth looking into and is almost equalt to 580 EX1</p>
-
<p>I also prefer to use the AF-On button for focusing. I hate for the camera to refocus when I hit the shutter button. Sometimes I intentionally focus on something past the object and then recompose. The camera will think I am trying to focus on whats directly in front of me and automatically refocus the camera. So i move this function to another button on the camera. However, i have never seen it come default like that... But , the camera is not busted just has lots of features. thats a lot of camera for a newbee.</p>
-
<p>I think shooting with one light and black background is really dificult to achieve good photos.<br>
Also, reflectors are really hard to use and get the angles exactly right. So much of ythe light from the softbox has to hit both the dog and the reflector. Light from a softbox is not very directional and doesn't bounce really well. <br>
I would recommed at least three hard lights (no softbox) just reflectors. Softboxes for hair just make the hair look muddled. <br>
Not that I am shooting dogs per se, but hair in general works better with hard light and lighter colored backgrounds. Or a well lit not dark background will add pop and seperation.</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>I now shoot almost exclusively Tamron lenses. The below shot was taken with a Tamron 70-300 a $399 lens which to me has great sharpness.<br>
http://patrickwheaton.com/windmills/h54e8fc9a#h54e8fdc2<br>
Where you at one time shooting jpg. with in camera sharpening and then switch to RAW with no sharpening?<br>
Here is a comparison i did between Canon 24-105 IS and Tamron 24-70 VR<br>
http://patrickwheaton.com/lenstest/h42b753b2#h42b75406<br>
In general sharpness is obtained by the lens not the camera but .jpg with in camera sharpening using picture styles will be sharper than RAW images until sharpened in Lightroom.</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>I only used DPP for a short time before I started using Lightroom. I use Lightroom as much to organize and rate my RAW photos as editing and conversion. Since converting to Lightroom I have had no need for PhotoShop and although I own CS5 haven't used it in a long time.<br>
DPP to me was very limitied in features compared to Lightroom. I heavily use the Export to Zenfolio feature which is simply a great way to deliver my products directly to the web and my customers in one simple move.</p>
-
<p>PS - This will also disable autoplay which is great you don't want to autoplay and automatically give yourself a virus...</p>
-
<p>Linux geeks use man short for man pages Windows geeks use Google. If you must replace your OS to fix this problem it may be too complicated for you and something dumbed down like a MAC or Umbutu may be better for you. Otherwise, simpy follow the steps below.<br /> 1) goto Start<br /> 2) type msconfig<br /> 3) select Services Tab<br /> 4)Scroll down and Uncheck Shell Hardware Detection<br /> 5)Restart Windows<br>
6)Done.<br>
<p>PS - just messing with you non-Windows users I am a network engineer and use every flavor of computer OS. I primarily work in datacenters most of what I do is Windows Server 2012 which is an extremely capable OS and VMware so I see very little client side OS's. Don't be afraid of what you don't know.</p>
Camera or Lens. Which to upgrade first.
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
<p>I am late but yes the lens. I would also take a serious look at Tamron Lenses. I shoot with a Canon 5D2 and love the Tamron 70-300 F4-5.6 VC. I got mine for $399 and the Image stablization alone is worth that but the IQ is breath taking even on a 5d2. A combination of lenses will open your photography more than a new camera body. <br>
I went Tamron VC zooms and primes. For the price of a Canon 70 - 200 F4L you could pick up the Tamron 70-300 VC and a Canon 85 1.8 to pair with your 50 1.8. You might also look at the 28 1.8. Now you would have both VC and low light primes and increased zoom with the 70-300. Win, win, win. Plus you save money. I have actually sold all my l series lenses except 85 1.2L and 17-40 F4L. Those are just tooo god to part with. But everything else is primes or Tamron VC.</p>