ghuczek

<p>I have an older style waist level finder for a V series camera that will not stay closed. It is a minor annoyance, but I would like to try to repair it. It looks easy enough to do. Under the top button is a mechanism with a hook that looks like it should fit into a slot in the body of the finder. I probably just have to move the hook part slightly with needle nose pliers. Has anyone got a procedure to make the latch catch properly and keep the hood from popping open on its own? </p>

<p>Did the firmware update do anything to improve the shutter lag?</p>

<p>You don't need to mask the film. Just put the two frames in the glass holder, preview, and set the cropping guides. This is what I do using Vuescan with the 9000 and it works well. Removing dust can be tedious, as Andre said, but it is necessary. Gloves are a good idea, since fingerprints will show up in the scans.</p>

Thank you.

<p>Does anyone know how I can get in touch with Ken Templeton in Sacramento? He made some amazing prints for me from 8x10 PMK pyro negatives many years ago and I have some more prints I would like him to make.</p>

 

<p>Further to what Len said, you could use rice in a bag as well. It works for drying out iPhones.</p>

<p>I've used both it and a Logan. It is really difficult to cut straight with these on thick mat board.</p>

<p>Wipe everything off with fresh water to get off as much of the salt as possible then leave the magazine open and in a warm sunny spot or close to a baseboard heater for a few hours. It will likely clear. I get the same kind thing on my motorcycle speedometer after driving in the rain, and it clears up by itself after a few days. If the water had a way of getting in, it will likely have a way of getting out as well. I'd be more worried about the salt than the moisture.</p>

<p>"What's this? Digital replication of lens delineation character?"<br>

I don't understand this last comment ay all -- perhaps it was intended to be tongue-in-cheek.<br>

I'm interested in available profiles especially for the wide angle lenses, to correct for vignetting. With Leica lenses there isn't much concern about chromatic aberration and distortion for my lenses; newer lenses handle these aberrations much better.<br>

I suppose, as Stuart mentioned, I might just have to create my own profiles. It is not too difficult, but time consuming. Isn't there anyplace where users can share their Leica lens profiles with others, so everyone doesn't have to do this from scratch?</p>

<p>I opened Adobe Lens Profile Downloader 1.0 to see what profiles are available for Leica lenses to use in Lightroom. There are profiles for Canon, Nikon, etc., but not a single one for Leica lenses.<br>

Are there profiles available anywhere for M lenses?</p>

 

<p>I did the blank screen photo test. It was dust sure enough. Thanks for the info. Time for some dust removal.</p>

<p>The same thing happens on an M6 with the 283 flash. It is normal. Depressing the shutter release button closes the flash circuit even when the shutter is not cocked.</p>

<p>I am getting strange circular artifacts in images. I've included a photo to show what they look like. The original was shot as a .DNG file, at ISO 160 with a 50 1.4 summilux. I shot three frames in succession, 1 EV apart for an HDR composite. This was the middle frame, at 0EV compensation, but the other frames show this as well, as do single frame shots I take. This image is converted to jpeg without any post image manipulation to show the artifacts I am getting. I am getting similar artifacts with other lenses (and indoors at normal temperatures), but not in the same positions on the image, so I've ruled out dust or a bad sensor. One frame shown is a 200% crop of the image, showing an example of these artifacts just above the treeline in the centre of the frame. The other image shows the full frame for contextual reference.<br /> Has anyone else experienced this? If so, what is the likely cause? Is there something defective with the way my sensor is recording files? Any help would be appreciated.</p>

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http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00DBmS

Likely 50mm Distagon, contrary to my first post. Does anyone recognize whacky lens shade?

Out of focus backgrounds are likely due to camera and lens technique rather than scanning issues. If you are setting the lens at the hyperfocal distance, you may try backing off the infinity marker by one stop, i.e. if using f/11 set infinity to f/8.

It looks like a 150 Sonnar C f/4 lens.

The red flag here is that the counter may have already rolled over once and gone back to 000. Unless you trust the seller, there's no way of knowing for sure. The "like new" condition could mean it has never even been used, but how can you be sure without knowing anything about the seller?

will the overall experience be drastically different than the Leica?

 

That depends. If you used the Leica mainly hand-held, expect roughly the same "mojo" with the Mamiya hand-held. However, the 7/7II lends itself very well to contemplative use for landscapes on a tripod. The Leica can be used like that as well of course, but it really performs best with hand-held, spontaneous shooting. In landscape work on a tripod, the Mamiya will give excellent results. Some might argue that the lenses give the best performance that medium format film cameras have to offer.

 

For environmental portraiture, the 7II has a big limitation in its ability of its lenses to focus closely. It doesn't allow you to take close-up portraits. Full body length, or head and torso portraits are about as close in as you can get.

I've seen the same thing happen that Josh mentioned. The film I used (FP4+ 120) seemed clear after the final wash, then got pink after drying. I resoaked a sample of the film and refixed it. It cleared after refixing with fresh fixer. Josh - try this with a test sample of the film. Let us know how it turned out. I have no idea why the pink colour isn't noticeable before the film dries. It might have something to do with how the light scatters from the emulsion once it dries ...

Why don't you just scan the 35mm film strips in your glass holder on the LS800? It might be a bit slow having to make frame selections for the frame area, but the glass holder will give you a perfectly flat piece of film to scan.

You can avoid the math and tables altogether by using any metered prism finder. Any necessary exposure compensation for closeups will be adjusted accordingly in the meter reading. That's the easiest way, if you are not using electronic flash.

 

Inside 2 metres you're correct: a 1/2 stop adjustment would be adequate for a 10mm extension ring.

Thanks for the link Alejandro. I was using the filter to bump up the sky contrast with B&W film. I'll try similar scenes with colour film unfiltered, then convert to monochrome with the PS channel mixer and bring in sky contrast digitally. That might help.

I think I was using either a red or orange Hasselblab filter and a hood. The lens and filter were both clean.

Is anyone getting this type of flare in backlit situations? I'm using

an SWC903. I get similar effects if the sun is dead centre in the

frame. on an edge, or in a corner. It doesn't happen everytime. Will

changing aperture minimize it?<div></div>