nige_buddy

<p>Paterson reels have been used successfully for decades, so no need to buy new stuff straight away...<br>

<br />There are few tips to make it easier, as mentioned they need to be dry. If you do dry them with a hair dryer, let them cool before attempting loading a film. Humidity is also problematic, especially if you are using a dark bag to load in. If using a dark bag, put a box in and stand it on it's side to keep the 'roof' of the bag up out of the way. If you do have trouble, try turning the film around and start from the other end after removing the backing paper and folding the tape that held it on over onto the film (gives it a little bit more strength).</p>

<p>I have the exhaust fan (light proof, Doran brand I think... pushing the memory a bit) in the roof above the back of wet area and a light proof vent in the door (down low). The theory is the fan sucks the air/fumes up the wall and away from the trays. Seems to work, standing at the sink I can't smell the fixer. I also have a portable A/C that is vented (the hot air exhaust) into the roof.</p>

<p>I'd interpret it that the fog cleared during the morning</p>

<p>if it keeps taking more pictures than the length of film should, more likely you haven't loaded the film correctly (hasn't caught in the take up spool) and you'll have no pictures at all. What camera, some give hints that there's film inside.</p>

<p>set meter to 1600 then exposure compensation to +2... develop normally :-)</p>

<p>generally I have a decent 'eye' for setting the easel but sometimes use a ruler and measure from horizon to easel edge. I've always just done it without any marks but Stephen raise an interesting technique that I hadn't considered and will employ, however I'll use the back of an old print in the easel to draw on.</p>

<p>Also, you can open the lens up and/or remove filtration to be able to see what your doing better. Just remember to re-apply! </p>

<p>the temp changes the developers activity... higher temp more active, more contrast. Lower temp, lower contrast. Altering time based on temp compensates for the temp based activity change.<br>

Overdeveloped film can have highlights (the dark areas on neg) with no detail. Under-developed, the tones may not have enough separation. If you over develop too the point that your highlights have no detail, there's nothing you can do to recover when printing. Different grade paper (or using VC paper and filters) allows you to 'rescue' the situation somewhat but the range is limited (grades 0-5, less if using a colour head). <br>

Remember that shadow detail is controlled by exposure... highlights controlled by development...<br>

So, Expose enough, and develop just enough...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'll start by saying you've scanned at a resolution (4000dpi?) that is going to pick up every bit of grain of what is fundamentally a grainy film. I'm guessing that it also wasn't processed to suit (unsuitable developer??, for not long enough??). Not used much of the stuff, but it's really anISO1250 or thereabouts film that needs extra development to give enough contrast if exposed @ 3200. Shadow detail will be minimal.</p>

<p>I had something 'a little similar' occur when putting some 120 film thru a 620 Box Brownie. However without looking at the negs (at work at the moment) I can't remember if it was dark or light lines. The prints where the opposite :) When I do this I file down the edges of the 120 spool so it fits in the camera but on this occassion I didn't take enough off and it was hard to wind through the camera. Most frames had lins across the frames like these however they were not so close and numerous. The tension on the film going around the film path caused the film to be distressed which shows up. I'll have a look tonight to see if it was added density or not.</p>

<p>my M645 1000s had similar problem. New seals on rear door fixed it.</p>

<p>Based on images displayed, I think the B&W's underexposed and maybe over developed, but scanning adds another step in the process that can introduce 'errors'. Half your film speed used and try again.<br>

The colour one looks fine at that size. Your assessment of the full image might be just the scanning process. How are you doing that?</p>

<p>Pretty sure my Paterson System 4 tank has the volume requirements on the bottom of the tank, but if I wasn't sure, I'd test it myself by measuring how much water is required to cover the reels (no film in reels and lid off so I can see what's happening)</p>

<p>Do these splotches look milky? If so, try re fixing. Tmax is known for needing extra fixing than most other films.</p>

<p>Occasionally when I've done a heap of RC prints (usually postcards) I put them on my 'fly wire' drying racks but they never dry as quickly as when I stand them up in a couple of plastic coated wire 'paper sorters' I got from an office supplies shop. These things are very space efficient, each holds about 10 prints (up to 8x10's... bigger paper doesn't stand up too well) </p>

<p>Well Alec, if you had of said that in the first place your answers might have been different. It's so frustrating when people ask questions but fail to give all the infomation they already have. I won't answer you oringinal question as I have no desire to tone my negatives and have never tried.</p>

<p>from a while ago... 2001 actually!<br>

HP5+ developer with 0.75ml of Rodinal in 300ml water (1:400) with agitation 1st 30secs, 1min, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 for a total time of 90mins at 20C (well it started at that)<br>

This scan doesn't show it too well (and I don't have a higher resolution one to zoom in on) but the edge effects look like a scan/image that's been super-over-sharpened.</p><div></div>

<p>Agree with Chris. My reels are that old too and never been cleaned other than a rinse in clean water before being allows to dry.</p>

<p>Before getting a dedicated darkroom I used to use a change bag and in summer used to experience the same issues. One thing I found used to help was to twist the reel sides fast as you load the film... just takes some courage to try it! I did this with a light touch so that if it did stick then I didn't then force it and cause crinkles.</p>

<p>This reminds me why I like my darkroom :)</p>

<p>Cheers, Nige</p>

<p>if someone is going to mention Tribby... then I'm going to mention Scott Eaton... he knew more than my wife does!</p>

if the negs are not fixed due to them touching then they most likely won't be developed properly either... check that as it should be pretty obvious.

recheck you dilutions

you warm the water up for the development (and sebsequent) phase don't you?

I took this photo's for Ron but thought I'd post them here for future reference.<div></div>

I use the 'taco' method.

 

Put a rubber band around a sheet (emulsion inwards) and 'stand up' in a 2 reel plastic tank (with centre post in). Add chems, put lid on and std inversion agitation. Can get 3 sheets in comfortably but I've read of people doing 4 at a time. Does need 900ml of chems to cover. I tend to use Xtol @ 1:2 and will reuse it a 2nd time if I've got more sheets ready to develop straight away. I won't keep it for another day!

never used that film but, I always used 18-20mins @ 1:100, agitated every 2nd minute (cause I'm lazy) using 3ml of rodinal in 300ml of water (or 5ml in 500 if it was 120 roll film). The product sheets do specify more Rodinal.

The Genius of Photography?