nige_buddy

I use them too.

if you're using a yellow filter then meter at about 16 iso/asa/ei/whatever. Most of the exposure will be like normal film. You'll get high contrast with minimal IR effect. If you want long shutter speeds as well (maybe that's what your seeing as the dreamy effect.. subject movement), then you'll need to add some ND (maybe use a polariser if you have one)

Janet, the recommended exposure for Konica is 1/60 @ f5.6 with a red (25A) filter in rull sun. I personally prefer to give it one more stop (i.e. 1/30 @ f5.6 or variation of eg. 1/15 # f8). This will still produce pretty dense negs. So, depending on the lighting you took your pics in, you may have over exposed dramatically (say 4-5 stops)

back from shopping... my final report for the day :)

 

The film leader that now been exposed to light for 6+ hours looks like it hasn't darkened much more than it had in it's 1st few minutes. Pulling more film out of the canister shows that something is happening. I scan the film as both a negative and a postive (Epson 1640 flatbed with TP adaptor) and it picks up the differences (see attacked, grey section is as a neg, purple is what it came out as a positive) in density. I don't think this is going to darken to a decent black.<div></div>

Well, I thought I better have a go at this as I remembered I had a roll of FP4+ that was only a few exposures due to being the end of the bulk roll. After about 10mins of the leader being exposed to light it DOES seem to have changed density (judged by pulling a little more film out and holding up to view). I'll leave it out while we go shopping and see what happens. I'm guessing I've never noticed it before as my rolls go from being bulk loaded into canisters relatively quickly, as with the other stages of canister to camera, camera to canister, canister to developing tank. Also, once developered, the leader ends up jet black so you probably can't see any difference or even would be looking for it.

I've never seen this. Used some APX-100 but they've been factory loads. For my FP4/HP5/Tri-X/Delta 400 bulk loading the leaders always stay the same grey that they come off the roll. If the light was affecting the leader, then leaving it out should make the whole thing go black. It that happening? I reckon not. Before doing too much more, shoot (on junk arounf the house) the roll you've rolled and process it and see what happens.

did they say to what extent? Manufacturers usually quote minimum temps to accompish effective washing. A few degrees warmer isn't going to hurt either.

 

I personally prepare a bucket of 20C water from which I mix my developer (sometimes with a bit of hot or cold to get the developer temp right) and do my rinses for stop (2 x fill, agitate, dump - I don't use a chemical stop bath) and for several rinses after the fix. I either do a Ilford fill, invert, dump routine or fill the tank with the 20C water and plug in the Paterson tap washer hose and let it go at whatever temp is coming out the cold tap. Since the water coming in is only a trickle it takes a while for the temp to change to the tap temp.

I'm pretty much with Todd. Slighty lightening their eyes improves it IMO.<div></div>

Just a little story...

 

Though an act of stupidity (I was explaining the process to someone as I developed their film!) I once managed to pour my concentrate into the tank (Paterson System 4) rather than the beaker I was supposed to mix it in! I quickly added about the required amount of water and agitated like crazy. The negs came out fine but I'm not sure my friend thought I knew what I was doing! The reason I think I got away with it was I was using a 1:29 dilution so the 10ml of concentrate must have lay under the film before I added the water. We ended up making some nice prints from their negs, so all was well :)

Decided to check the date on the rolls (2) I have left and it's Feb 1999 and the last roll (same batch) I processed was April 2003. It behaved as I am accustomed too.

that funnel is one more thing to wash ;)

 

to test your pouring skills, look around the room to see what else you have to clean up... if you don't spill any, you've got it under control!

forgot to add, the last roll or 2 I have in my fridge would be dated 2001 or 2002 and I have no doubt that when i get the right subject to use it on, it will be fine.

from what I've read, Konica IR750 is manufactured once a year. I never found a 'in-date' roll to purchase when I used to be able to get it at all (it's no longer imported into Australia) The great thing about this was the shop used to sell it cheap cause it was out of date :) The film you have will be fine (IMO) but ring before you send it back, because they may not have any 'in-date' stuff to send you.

www.newdark.com.au have some 'Euro' stuff but EFKE isn't listed. Another one worth a look might be Vanbars ( www.vanbar.com.au)

light years different from my experiment...<div></div>

I've developed SFX, Konica IR750, Maco 820n and Kodak Infrared (HIE) in a Paterson System 4 tank (early 80's vintage) with no fogging problems.

It was working out to be a Sunny 69 but Kodak thought that wouldn't go down too well so they moved the Earth a bit further away from the Sun to make it Sunny 16 and not cause giggling in Photo 101... believe it or not! ;)

I'm sure I posted here yesterday.. ohh well must habve disappeared into cyberspace!

 

What I think I said was, I think you should take a wider lens for the FG. A cheapy 28mm E-Series would be a very useful addition. If I was to take only one lens for that camera, I'd be tossing up between the 28 and a 35mm.

 

No idea about the digi side of things.

I currently use sticky tape (celophane). Used to use masking tape, but when that roll ran out, this sticky tape was close by and got put into service! Neither have left any residue on the plastic spindles, and I always ensure the tape goes around the spindle and catches the film on the underneath as well. Never had myself or motordrive tear one off. I have been using some blue painters tape.. for painting... and I wouldn't trust that to hang on to the film. It comes of very easy. There are different levels of 'tackiness' though, although I think the plain-jane alternatives will work better and be cheaper (as masking tape goes, the blue stuff is dear).

 

My 'Dayroll' bulk loaders fog half the last frame which can be annoying, but I usually remember to check the frame counter (I use 30exp rolls to ensure they fit on a 8x10 sheet of paper for the contact sheet) and change the roll if I'm shooting something where I can't reshoot the last frame. I haven't found the need to load cassettes in the dark to avoid this. You're Minolta 16 cassettes sound a different proposition though.

I've tried the coffee developing based on the above mentioned RIT article, and although it 'works' it's not usable for general photography.

Reticulation occurs when you change the temp of the film rapidly (in my experience). If you store/process/fix/wash/dry all at 30C then that shouldn't be a problem, however there may be other problems like uneven development if the time is too short.

 

I'm inclined to agree with the thought that it's reflection off the LFN. Maybe try looking at the film before giving it a final rinse with the LFN in the water (do you use distilled?) to isolate at what stage the green dots appear. In addition, maybe look at under different lighting, are you viewing them under fluros? A different light source might make them change colour :)

I agree with Dean, Marc & Stephen.

Check that when you "save as" there's not another style of JPG format to save too. There is a thing called JPG2000, which I guess is more modern than 'std' JPG, maybe it's defaulting to that.

The size of some of these containers sounds a little small IMO based on the pkts of D76 I've used (I think it makes 3.8L?) Check how much you want to mix up and get a bucket big enough plus a bit so you can stir and it won't spill over the sides. I use a std gen. purpose bucket (50cents) that doubles as a storage container for my devl tank and associated stuff. You'll need a smaller measuring vessel to dilute the stock solution to working, say a 1lt container.

 

So Conrad, 8 ways plus their metric equivalents :)

copied pic into CorelPaint (only image editor on this machine), saved as jpg and it's done something (enough) for it to display, so Bobs thoughts could be 'on the money'<div></div>