habsphoto

I have new test images on Efke Infrared 120 on my flickr site. Yes it's slow, but in 120 and 4x5 it makes a

nice fine grain option for those architectural shots. How slow? ASA ONE with a 092/R72/89B cut-off filter.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/schafphoto/<div></div>

I just got a reply to a question from Fuji that the Acros 100 4x5 Quickloads are not on a polyester base.

So they won't meet the Library of Congress archival standards (500 years). Maybe this is old news to

HABS-HAER photographers, but I couldn't find it anywhere. I was hoping to use the ACROS quickloads for

a couple of projects. looks like i'll be shooting the TMAX Readyloads (on Estar thick base) for my HABS-

HAER-HALS work as before. Too bad, I really liked the fuji.

Here is the response from FUJI:

Dear Mr. Schafer,

Thank you for contacting FUJIFILM, USA's Helpdesk Center. Please allow

us to assist you.

Acros 4x5 black & white quickload film is a cellulose triacelate base.

-Schaf

www.habsphoto.com

You P3200 guys should start a new thread, no one looking for info on P3200 is going to look

this far down an HIE thread....

Just a thought.

-Schaf<div></div>

What depressing news, the end of an era. I guess this is how all those Tech Pan and Panatomic-X

photographers felt when their favorite film went disco. How long's it been? I've been shooting what seems

like the same HIE formula for 20-21 years. So, 25 years without any major changes? 30? 35? I guess we

had a good run, I don't see any other obscure films from the 1970's still around. Doesn't make me feel

any better though.

I hope I have enough to wait 'til another film manufacturer starts to make something comparable now

that the yellow giant has pulled the plug. I knew this day would come eventually, so I've tested EFKE,

Konica, Rollei, and Maco, and my style just does not work with a tripod and an opaque filter. No AH

backing, 50-100 ISO and a 25 Red is what I'm looking for. I'm willing to spend $20 a roll if that's what it

takes.

More importantly, now that I've stocked up on HIE because of the discontinuance notice:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/films/discontinuedNotice.jhtml?

id=0.2.26.14.25&lc=en

How do I store the stuff ???

I have a freezer and was thinking of putting each individual brick in a freezer zip-lock bag with a small

desiccant packet, and putting them in the freezer.

After that, I thought of wrapping the freezer in lead, and putting it at the

bottom of a salt mine.

Any suggestions would be appreciated... Anyone got a salt mine to rent?

-Schaf<div></div>

Under Tungsten lights, the IR film speed should be about double your outdoor ASA speed.

When i use muy strobes in the studio I don't flash them, I just use the Tungsten modeling

lights. (for example I shoot 200ASA outdoors, with a 23 or 25 filter, and I shoot at 400ASA

under tungsten lights with a 23 or 25. you may not even need the filter since there is so little

blue light coming from the Tungsten. this may make it easier to focus-refocus. Tip: I use

purple lipstick on the model to keep the lips from disappearing on IR.

I have understand that EFKE is the same factory that made the MACO and it is the same

film.So I imagine the AURA would be the same as well. The main difference is the infrared

sensitivity I think, there is ample room for push processing. I shoot HIE with a 23-Red most

of the time and still get a striking IR effect.

I have never used XTOL, but I have been using the satndard Tmax RS automated processing

for about 10 years with no problems. before that i processed HIE myself with D-76 and

Crone-C additive, but i was more interested in contrast 10 years ago, now i like a little less

contrast in case hand-coloring is needed.

I have just uploaded some comparison shots of Efke IR 820c shot side by side Kodak HIE.

HIE shot at my standard 200ASA Kodak speed and using a large bracket I came up with a TTL speed for

the Efke at 25asa. 25Red filter does not do substantial infrared effects on the Efke. Freestyle Photo

Supplies is considering having EFKE produce an AURA 820c with the glow effect of HIE. (no anti-halation

backing).i will try this test again with a IR cutoff filter and see how it goes.

see my portfolio on Photo.net for samples.

http://www.photo.net/photodb/member-photos?user_id=1004854

Thanks for your answers, I'm inclined to use an imaginary focus index point between

visible

and IR focus index, because (as was mentioned), this film with a 29 filter is really

extended-

red photography. My first roll was shot with a 25A at 200 ASA and seems to be correctly

exposed, perhaps I would try 160ASA next time. Then my second roll was

shot with a 29 filter at 125 ASA and also seems to be correctly exposed. (Automated

process normal T-

max RS developer at Tmax 100 time, the lab I use runs Tmax process control strips every

morning so whatever the Time/temp it should be a factory spec) I shot a roll

of HIE along side the R-IR400 and even though I was using a 23 light red filter on the HIE

camera, the negs are MUCH more infrared typical... especially in the area of blue sky which

is a mid-gray on R-IR400 and almost clear on the HIE negs. Nothing too surprising, but

since the 29 filter is about as dark as you can go and still practically view through the lens,

it seems the R-IR400 really needs a tripod and a IR cutoff filter to clearly give that good-

ole IR feeling I've been used to. As far as the question of APO lenses, I was told by

someone smarter than me, that APO lenses do not need to have focus compensated for IR

because of the optical design, I would surmise that any APO lens of high quality would

have a IR focus index mark if this was not the case.

I have been shooting HIE for 19 years and am testing Rollei IR 400 for an IR workshop that

I am teaching. I have not seen any specifications that explain the exact focus shift of the

film, and after years of shooting IR I have grown accustomed to shifting focus

automatically. I have read some threads for beginners that suggest not worrying about the

shift, and using the DOF of lenses at f16 or f22. That isn't applicable to my style, no

tripod, wide-open, indoors. Nowhere in the Rollei literature does it mention focus. Since

HIE is sensitive at and around 950 and Rollei is sensitive to 850, my gut reaction is to split

the

difference and use a focus compensation point between the visible and IR index mark.

My

HIE technique is 50mm 1.4 lens wide open, shoot at 200ASA TTL, with 25 or 29 deep red

filter, I religiously shift the focus to the IR index, because of the f1.4 aperture. Then I have

the local pro lab machine dip-dunk-process in T-max RS developer the same time temp

as Tmax 100. 95 percent of the shots are correctly exposed with no bracketing, 1 percent

of the shots are worth printing and hanging on the wall if I'm lucky, so I use a fair bit of

film. Rollei might be a possible backup if HIE goes out of production, which wouldn't

surprise me after the Kodak Paper discontinuance (is that a real word?). And I just don't

get the same joy & satisfaction out of digital IR, and that's the whole point, no? Any

thoughts or similar test results would be appreciated. www.schafphoto.com<div></div>