eric_brody

<p>While I wish the author well with his project, I'd rather not see posts here that are nothing more than advertisements, regardless of the merit of the item advertised.</p>

<p>I agree with Wouter. This is a solution looking for a problem. Each program has its own learning curve, strengths, and weaknesses. I happen to use Lightroom but this is not an argument I'd chose to enter. Try them, both have trials, decide which works better for you. Asking these types of questions involving fairly personal issues of style and preference on an internet forum would be difficult even if we did know you personally and is not usually terribly productive. I'm confident that a skilled person can make a difficult file look great with either and an unskilled person can use either to produce something quite awful. Good luck which ever way you go.</p>

<p>You'll need a drum scanner or equivalent to equal or better a Nikon 9000. I have one, use it almost never, but now that I no longer have a wet darkroom, it's my only link to my archive of 35mm and 120 negatives. Look at the Hasselblad if price is not critical. They have an excellent reputation. Otherwise it's drum scanners. It's not a subject I follow but wonder if anyone even makes new drum scanners anymore. A quick look at eBay found no drum scanners for sale, lots of accessories tho. I may not have looked hard enough. As others have suggested, using a medium to high resolution digital camera may work well too. There's lots on the web about how to do that. Good luck.</p>

<p>You have many choices, from the small, but slow as noted, "My Passport" or similar drives, with USB connections to the larger "My Book" up to 8TB. I have no connection to WD except as a reasonably happy customer, just using theirs as an example. I have an OWC Thunderbay which holds 4 3.5" "internal" drives, currently mine has 2 6TB and 2 4TB, the details are irrelevant here. It's neat and tidy and connects via Thunderbolt to my Mac Pro (trashcan). You can get an empty Thunderbay and populate it with whatever size drives you'd like as well as set them up as a RAID. Hard drives frequently go on sale, e.g. I just got 2 more 6TB Toshiba drives for just over US$200 each. Another option is a single drive docking station such as the Voyager from Newer Tech (there are many variations on this as well). I use one with internal 3.5" drives and it's reasonably fast, connects via USB3.<br> What's probably way more important than which brand, that can be a real morass of conflicting claims of reliability, is an overall backup strategy, admittedly not the topic here. Briefly, just make sure you have at least two backups, preferably bootable, of everything and ideally another one off site. I won't get into the plusses and minuses of using the cloud, you said you're not going that route. <br> Whatever you choose, good luck.<br> Eric (a different Eric than the above Eric ~)</p>

<p>If it matters, an NEC, a calibration device and Spectraview software. If it does not, it does not. Maybe a new laptop as well. Good luck. </p>

<p>I have three letters for you if you want an excellent long lasting monitor, NEC. Save up some more money, if it's important to you. Devices that change one form of energy into another and which are one's major interface are important, e.g. monitors and in the stereo world, speakers. Compromise elsewhere.</p>

<p>Leaving out live view with a CMOS sensor is incredibly short sighted. How much would it add to the price for an much more useful camera? But then, this is a Leica...</p>

<p>Here's the profile http://www.globalbmg.com/kodak/en/color-profiles<br> It took me just about 2 minutes to locate it. Google is your friend. Just as I said to you in another post, most of the profiles from paper companies are made with better equipment than you or your school have and are likely to be better. <br> Good luck.</p>

<p>The recommended media type is available from the paper manufacturers, no need to guess or experiment. For example http://moabpaper.com/icc-profiles-downloads/epson/epson-stylus-pro-4900/ lists the manufacturer's recommendations for media type setting for the 4900 for all the Moab papers. Google is your friend. I'd also recommend using, or at least starting with the icc profiles provided by the manufacturer's. Usually they are quite excellent and to do better would require a significant investment in hardware. I do not know what "calibration tool" you're using.<br> Good luck and have fun.</p>

<p>A few cautions on the new Lightroom CC. They have removed a few things that some of us feel are reasonably important and not really improved anything. <br> The import dialog in the new version has been significantly downgraded. Here's a note from LULA forum, <a href="http://forum.luminous-landscape.com/index.php?topic=104394.0" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://forum.luminous-landscape.com/index.php?topic=104394.0</a> which details the issues. I had upgraded but was able to reinstall the older version. If you've done it and are happy, great, but I'd be cautious. <br> </p>

<p>Kat, $265 might not be much to you, but it will buy a fair amount of ink/paper and/or a weekend photo trip where you make an unforgettable image :-)</p>

<p>I know you said you want to stick with Eizo, an excellent brand, but rethink, save your money, get an NEC with the Spectraview software and calibrator. You'll have a monitor recommended and respected by many excellent photographers. The 24-27 question is clearly up to you. Look at them in a store if you can, if not get the 27. Screen real estate is like sensor or film real estate, bigger is usually better. I have the 27" NEC and it's the best monitor I've ever used, recommended by Andrew Rodney whose opinions I trust. Good luck.</p>

<p>Edward, the XE-2 has a full time EVF just like the XE-1, XT-1 and XT-10. You might be confusing it with the XA-2 or XM cameras which do not have finders. I have an XE-1 and love the tiny size though it does not have the improvements built into the later cameras. </p>

No elightenment here... Just trolling and silly word play, a waste of bandwidth IMHO, and I do mean humble.

<p>Lenny, respectfully, the OP is asking about the vendor, not so much about the inks. Cone is a well known, established and respected name in inkjet printing, no one seems to know who "affordableandfast.com" really is. </p>

<p>Just checked Resellerratings and they're not there. That's a sign. Also, if you have to ask here or on any internet forum about a company and can't find info on them elsewhere that's a sign too. My advice, RUN!</p>

<p>Great idea, works well for primes, the problem is with zooms that can apparently have different settings at different focal lengths, challenging.</p>

<p>Get a dental dam. a small piece of rubbery material that weighs essentially nothing. It will enable you to release stuck filters without putting something gooey on the threads.</p>

<p>You can download a free trial of Lightroom from the Adobe website. As an aside, almost every kind of photo software from Adobe to Zerene stacking software is available as a free trial and I urge anyone considering a given piece of software to avail themselves of this. All photo software has a learning curve and one should do the download only for something one is seriously interested in and when one is able to devote some real time to it. Downloading Photoshop for 30 days and then going on vacation for two weeks is sure to result in frustration. <br /> I have Nikons, a Hasselblad, and a 4x5, and now use a Fuji X T-1 and X100s almost exclusively. I've had no problems with the files in Lightroom. Don't believe all the junk on the internet about Fuji files. <br /> I have been using Lightroom since its earliest versions as well as Photoshop and there is a reason why it is the dominant product that it is. I currently use the Creative Cloud and have had almost no issues with it. I fail to understand why people are resistant to paying US$10/month for software that allows such flexibility. Photoshop might be the most complex non-engineering software I've ever seen. I have about 60k files and I can find images made with my D70, years ago, at f/5.6 at 1/250 with a 50 mm lens. It is an incredibly sophisticated searchable database. BUT like anything in the database world, some of it needs input. The EXIF data will allow you to find images like I mentioned above but when it comes to finding images of "Johnny," or "the beach" the user must input keywords. Fortunately I've been doing this for a longtime.<br /> Starting with years of images to keyword can seem overwhelming but all it takes is a few rainy days (we've had none here in Oregon for some time) and one can make a start. There are many right ways to do these things and having a colleague with experience and expertise can make a daunting task much easier.<br /> Good luck.</p>

<p>I also agree with much of the above. I recently had to prepare a few images for a juried show and a couple were 3-4 years old. I pulled up the original RAW file in LR and spent quite a bit of time in both LR and PS significantly improving the images. Not only does technology improve, one's esthetics also can change over time from how one would crop, to how one would work with layer masks. I now use Silver Effex Pro 2 for my monochrome images and was not using it 4 years ago. That has nothing to do with the cost of storage. So long as one's images are keyworded, it's pretty easy to find the old ones with the excellent search tools in LR. I now toss only technically bad photos, e.g. out of focus, eyes closed etc, though it's not impossible that some of this will be fixable in the near term future. Though not everyone is as compulsive as I am, I've met more than a few people who have NO backups and no way to find anything on their phone or computer. Do it right away, if you put it off, it will never happen. Good luck.</p>

<p>I print almost exclusively in black and white. I did conversions in Photoshop, before Lightroom existed. Then I did them in Lightroom with pretty decent results. I now use Silver Effex Pro exclusively. As a learning experience, I'd strongly recommend spending some serious time understanding conversions with the basic Lightroom tools. They'll give you an excellent understanding of how color and black and white relate to each other. Then, when you're pretty happy with your results, download the trial of Silver Effex. It has some very nice refinements not present in Lightroom but has its own learning curve and I'd not recommend starting with it.<br> Good luck, have fun.</p>

<p>And even the histogram can be misleading since it is a jpeg rendering and may not accurately reflect the raw file. I use a Fuji X T-1 and X100S and find that even trying to use ETTR I often end up under-exposing, e.g. there is a bit unused headroom before the highlights are really blown in Lightroom. I agree that the OP's question is a bit unclear. Along with the others, I almost never delete a photo from the camera, with even small cards, there's no need to delete before importing to a much more objective screen, e.g. the computer. Good luck.</p>

<p>Impressive images, all. I particularly like Hector Javkin's image.</p>

<p>Hi Edward,<br> Just to re-clarify, based on your post... The Nikon PC-E lenses do not have a mechanical coupling for the aperture. All communication between the PC-E lens and the camera is electronic. Sadly there is no way, and believe me I have looked, to adjust the aperture of a PC-E lens except on a suitable Nikon body. I just wanted to be certain your correct comments about the AF and G lenses were not accidentally extended to the PC-E lenses.</p>

<p>Unless someone knows otherwise, please be aware that the Nikon PC-E lenses and I believe the Canon TS-E lenses have an electronic aperture and cannot be stopped down on any but the native cameras, e.g. Nikon or Canon. I own all three Nikon PC-E lenses and while I use them on my D800E, I'd love also to be able to use them on my Fuji X T-1. I can attach them with an adapter as I can any other Nikon lens but they will not stop down. I also thought about the Samyang for the Fuji but it's REALLY annoying to have a large sum invested in the Nikons and I'm not anxious to spend even more.</p>