peter_williams2

My old LPL Dayroll Deluxe looks quite like that last one. I never had any problems with it or the two that my high school had either.

Ilford HP5 in Rodinal was a favourite of mine when I wanted a fast film. I also have had pleasing results from Ilford XP2 Super and commercial processing. Kodak Tri-X is a reliable standard. There really aren't likely to be any "bad" B&W films on the market today, there isn't a huge demand and only the favourites are likley to be able to survive in viable production quantities.

I suspect the Olympus 8080 makes a better picture, and I know the Konica Minolts A2 handles better and probably makes a better picture and offers anti-shake which really works. I purchased a KM A2 after being where you were 18 months ago, no regrets, it's been excellent.

It is a 300 mm telephoto lens with a max aperture of F4, it's in their "L" professional series and is the slower of two 300 mm lenses in that class.

http://www.canon.com.au/products/cameras_lenses_accessories/super_telephoto_lenses/ef300mmf40lissusm.html

And Microsoft have this to say:

http://tinyurl.com/43gq8

Adobe have this to say:

http://www.adobe.com/support/techdocs/318243.html

The best results I've had from my R800 were on Epson Premium Glossy.

I made just such a gadget by mounting the peephole in a metal body body cap on my old screw mount Ricoh 35 mm slr. It made small round images on the film. It was interesting, but I don't think I got any very good pics from it.

Fuji have a good reputation for lenses too. Their MF jobbies are well regarded.

That surface above the mirror is the focus creen, it is typically very soft, delicate plastic and cannot be cleaned by anything more than blowing with air or a very soft brush. better to get it looked at by a camera repairer for a quote on cleaning up your spots I think.

Think again Bradley.

Go and read some texts on colour theory and look through a green filter.

Q. What colour is everything when you look through a green filter?

A. It all looks green.

That is because the filter is passing the green light through.

Turn on the live histogram, and read the articles here:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understanding-histograms.shtml

and

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml

 

Also you can set the EVF to show exposure relative brightness instead of an adjusted view.

If you are asking what a "prime" lens is, it means a non-zoom, non-varifocal lens. That is, it is a fixed focal length. For example a 28 mm lens, or a 50 mm lens, or a 200 mm lens. In the good old days all lenses were prime lenses, zooms are newfangled gadgets.

My friend of years ago used Acutol and 35mm FP4 a lot, his negatives were very nice, as were his prints. Beautiful crisp looking photos.

The 486, with or without the QR will suit your needs then.

Neither of the two heads and three plates (RC2 system) I have exhibit any play when clamped. Perhaps you have some fault?

KM DiMAGE A2 was my answer to the question. I bought one just over a year ago and haven't regretted it. It's very versatile and makes excellent quality pics if you drive it right.

I have the Manfrotto 488 RC2 and it is excellent. I chose it because it was large enough for all the cameras and lenses I'd be likely to put on it, and because it has a separate pan movement and lock to the main ball movement and lock. It also matched the quick release system I already had with a pan-tilt head. I am using the RC2, rectangular QR plates. I'm not sure what the advantage/disadvantage of the RC4 hexagonal plates is.

It is a jolly good book. I made my local library buy it.

You probably don't want to hear, change equipment, but that might be a sensible way to deal with this. Konica-Minolta have a couple of digital cameras with image stabilisation built in to the body. Canon and Nikon have image stabilised lenses for their slr cameras. I've seen a few people who have problems with shaky hands say that these cameras/lenses have enabled them to continue with photography.

Yes.

I think it is a good book with wide ranging coverage of most photographic situations. It also covers post-processing.

It is one of the best "digital" books I've seen.

I'm sure Olympus have already stated that the pro level successor to the E-1 will be the E-3. There was some conflict with an earlier film camera with the E-2 designation apparently. I imagine it will be out at a major photo trade show later this year.

Also I noted that the IV FB is stated as having a split image range finder and ground glass ring in the viewfinder. Mine is a plain ground glass and condeser lens arrangement, which is as described for the IV B.

Harvey, the rewind knob has a rather unique looing curved crank that slides out to the side, rather than folding over the top as is more common. It is the original factory part. The samne design is visible on several of the Praktika models shown at the Praktika web sites I found when searching for more info on the camera.

Thanks very much Curt, Winfried, Hortensia and Terry.

How did I miss that? I went to that site that Hortensia linked to and I thought I went through each camera model, apparently I didn't do it carefully. It does indeed seem to be a variant of the Praktika IV B.

It seems to be in working order too, although I'm not sure about the exposure meter. The shutter timings sound approx right and the controls seem to work normally. I was born in 1961, so the camera is approx the same age as me.