micheleberti

<p>hello, I am looking for a wireless flash trigger to be used with both a 503cx and a speedlight 580ex. do you know if this setup will work and what kind of wireless trigger do I need? thank you so much for your help</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Yep...just like the example I mentioned earlier.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>thank you Marc</p>

<p>the 580 has a PC connector while the 550 hasn't so I wonder if something like this will work with both flash unite (see file attached)</p>

 

<p>Hello everyone, I got this camera from my father and must admit I am really new to medium format and TLR system. By the way I would like to take some indoor portraits with this camera and I wonder what I need to connect one of my flash units (either a canon 550 ex or a 580 ex) to the Mat 124 G. Thank you all in advance.</p>

<p><img src="file:///C:/DOCUME~1/t000402/LOCALS~1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png" alt="" /> What kind/brand of flash diffuser is that used by the photographer below?</p>

<p>thnx</p>

<p><img src="http://images.corriereobjects.it/Fotogallery/Tagliate/2009/09_Settembre/10/MOD/01.JPG" alt="" width="500" height="379" /></p>

I have a doubt regarding flash metering. From PhotoNotes.Org I read:

 

<blockquote>First, E-TTL II examines all evaluative metering zones both before

and after the E-TTL preflash goes off. Those areas with relatively small changes

in brightness are then weighted for flash metering</blockquote>

<p>

then:

 

<blockquote>Normally E-TTL II uses evaluative algorithms for its flash metering,

but the EOS 1D mark II has a new custom function (CF 14-1) that lets you use

centre-weighted averaging rather than evaluative metering for flash metering if

you prefer</blockquote>

<p>

Before asking the question I must say that I always use centre-weighted average

as metering alghorithm for ambient light.

<p>

Now, since flash metering should be indipendent (isn't it?) from ambient light

metering, does the above mean that flash will use an evaluative metering for

flash exposure and the camera will use the centre weighted average

indipendently? Or both ambient and flash metering will use the evaluative mode

if CF 14 is not activated? It might appear obvious but it is not really clear to me.

<p>

Then, is still exposure is linked to the current AF focus point the same way it

happens with E-TTL?

You must soft proof AND check for out of gamut colors as well.

As already stated above you can soft proof how pictures will display in a non-color managed environment (such as Internet Explorer for example). First step is to convert the picture to sRGB then setup a soft proof picking up your monitor profile and turning on the option "Preserve RGB numbers".

 

With this soft proof activated you have now a preview on how the picture will show once in the web in a non color managed environment with YOUR monitor. You cannot predict how the same picture will looks on other monitors.

 

With soft proof on if the picture looks good then save as jpg and post it to the web.

 

Otherwise - still keeping soft proof on - if the picture looks ugly make some adjustment to colors to match the origina and then save as jpg and post it.

 

Just a final tought. When saving the jpg for the web you have two choices: one is to strip away the sRGB ICC profile, the other is to left the sRGB profile attached. If you go for the second this will ensure that your picture will looks better if someone will look at your picture with a color-managed browser (like Safari for example).

 

Finally keep in mind that some web sites will IN ANY CASE strip away the attached sRGB icc profile when posting the picture to their database so just be aware of this when uploading pictures with embedded an sRGB profile.

 

P.S.

Haven't check it to be honest (and cannot do it right now) but I wonder if Photo.Net keeps ICC profiles when posting to galleries or not? Can anyone do a try?

You can see all the photos <a href="http://www.fotosportitalia.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=823">here</a>

Romain Sato, Virtus Bologna vs Montepaschi Siena, 17 Jan 2007, Euroleague<div></div>

i'd suggest either the 35mm f/1.4 L or the 16/35mm f/2.8 mk II (or the 17-40 f4 if you can't afford the 16-35). The 24-70 is too heavy as a walk around lens.

usually ISO 1600, spotted at f2,8 - 1/500 should be fine

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=785400">I had a basketball shooting day</a>

Had a trip in Lourdes this spring, <a

href="http://www.micheleberti.it/006/main.shtml">here few shots</a>.

I'd like to apply different small radial gradients on the same level.

Unfortunatley everytime I try to apply a new gradient the previous one is

immediately cancelled. How can I avoid this behaviour of gradients in order to

make tham overlapping on the same level? Than you all for helping

No, they're just different.

yes, it is

The 50/1.4 is an excellent piece of glass even wide open. I have it and I am very pleased with it. You will take very nice portraits of your baby w/it

I tried to use them with my R1800 but I found them unusable 'cause ink doesn't fix well on paper

<blockquote><i>I am using a Nikon Coolscan LS- 5000ED</i></blockquote>

 

Has Nikon released new drivers for intel-macs? Last time I checked they didn't ...

New Epson printers (R2400, R3800 etc..) can produce great B&W prints (both neutral or toned). BTW have a <a href="http://www.cjcom.net/articles/digiprn2.htm">look here</a> ... it might turns useful.

Felix Schoeller Glossy 300 gr ... one of my favorites. It costs around 40cents per sheet.

<blockquote><i>I tried to follow the Printing workflow 2 and 3 reported in computer-darkroom.com. The prints came out too dark compared to my current monitor setting</i></blockquote>

 

<p>I'd calibrate the monitor again if I was in you and the give another try. I'm pretty sure the problem is in your monitor calibration. I might be wrong but I'd try again to calibrate. Why are you saying "brightness 90"? If you are using an LCD those monitor are away too bright for photography ... What's the luminance (not the brightness) of your monitor?

<a href="http://www.datacolor.com/index.php?name=Sections&req=viewarticle&artid=220">PrintFix PRO</a> make an excellent work for a reasonable price.

<i><blockquote>[...]In order to achieve this with some of my very contrasty, scanned, Kodachromes, it is at the expense of the over all image because allowing no blowouts anywhere is sometimes at the expense of having an image that is just too dark to enjoy.</i></blockquote>

 

Have you ever tried using masks in conjunction with contrast enhancements techniques? Usually this gives you extra degrees of freedom .