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jason_fitzmaurice

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Posts posted by jason_fitzmaurice

  1. Scot,

    It doesn't scan easily, but with work it can be done.

    What good is it? How about the archivability?

     

    How about the fact that some of us just like it?

     

    I can't stand most Fuji offerings particularly Provia; however, I would never suggest it was no good, or that people shouldn't use it based solely upon that.

     

    Like all visual arts people have different tast, so what. So here's a deal; I wont complain at people using Provia, and you let us Kodachrome users alone.

     

    Truce :)

  2. Shooting Kodachrome is expensive ( I kind of ranted on that in another thread)

     

    Processing it doesn't need to be though.

    If you can wait two weeks for your slides take them to Walmart. Walmart will send them off, (Not to Kodak so I assume it is Dwayne's) Slides will come back with excellent procesing, and my last roll of 36 exposure K200 cost me 4.99 to process. Now I bought amateur Kodachrome (as I'm not made of money) so my total cost for the roll was $7.19 for film + 4.99 for processing = $12.18 total.

  3. Ron,

    I understand what you mean about sales; however, isn't this a vicious circle?

     

    Kodachome hasn't been improved in years, Kodak doesn't even process it anymore, so sales are poor. Sales are poor so Kodak doesn't advertise, improve, or process Kodachrome. Repeat ad infinitum.

     

    I imagine if Kodak put a marketing blitz out for a new Kodachrome, along with n announcement that it would be processed ina t least one lab in every state.... Boom sales would go up.

     

    It's kind of a chicken and egg argument. Do low sales fuel Kodak's lack of support.. or does Kodak's lack of support fuel poor sales?

     

    One problem is almosty no casual shooter I know, knows how Un-archival most color film is, and how archival Kodachrome is. Even a raising of public awareness on that would make a difference.

     

    Lastly there is Kodak's refusal to follow the laws of supply and demand. If demand is low, than the price of Kodachrome would naturally fall; however, Kodak flies in the face of the only universally believed economic theory and keeps making it more expensive. This can only perpetuate the problem. I perwsonally know at least 10 people who stopped using it because it costs so much.

     

    Anyway....... My hope at this point is that when Kodak stope making it they sell the technology for a song to someone else. I don't know what to do about film anymore. I dislike most Fuji's (not really a knock at Fuji, I see many pictures taken with their films I love, they jsut don't seem to mesh with me). Kodak discontinues or tries to kill everything I like, or makes it hard to get consistancy across formats ( I like TMZ better than Delta 3200, bur no TMZ in 120. ) Agfa makes films I love, but seems to be about to go under......

     

    SIGH

  4. You might consider trying the Agfa Vista series of films. Inexpensive, good colors, good all round film.

    If you have a walgreens in your area the film is available there as their house brand. It is available from 100-400. Not the best film in the world, but maybe the best for mixed situations (a citiscape, followed by a portrait, followed by street photography).

  5. As far as what causes the difference there is disagreement; however, most would agree the original explination is accurate in terms of what you will notice. Film ripening, etc.

     

    I find that if I buy my KR and KL in quantity from a reputible dealer, age it for a month sitting on a shelf, and then refrigerate it, it stays fairly consistant, and works for me, Your milage may vary.

     

    SOme will tell you Kodachrome is garbage, some will tell you it is the only film worth shooting. Both are wrong as it is entirely subjective,

     

    I'd buy some KR and shoot it. IF you like it try some PKR and see if there is a difference you notice, and care about. Personally I find no important difference between KR and PKR and only a slight one in KL and PKL. (Not enough to juistify the cost of PKL IMHO)

     

    Just give it a try and see.

  6. Okay so I'm an idiot. I found the blue dot setting. Now I assume the settings for iso are irelevant, and the other settings which I was wrongon are. mx(a) mx(b) and Rx. I assume RX is for the Ricoh setting. Does anyone know if I need to use MXa or MXb?

     

    Thanks

  7. It has three contacts, so I presume it will work as ttl then.

     

    As for the settings. It has one slider to select the ISO, one to choose between two different aperatures (I presume this is for non TTL Auto flash use).

     

    The third slider has three settings rx(a) rx(b) and M. Do you know where that should be set? I suppose I could just runa roll ofd film through it and see which one works, but I'd prefer to avoid the expense. Thank yuo for your hjelp,and for letting me know the three contacts confirm it is ttl.

  8. I recently purchased a X-700 to replace my now dead x-7a. Included

    with the camera was a Sunpak 266d flash that says "dedicated for

    Minolta Ricoh Cameras" It has several settings on the back. How shoudl

    it be set u p for TTL work?

  9. For all around use, you might look atthe AGFA series of slide films.

     

    I like Ektachrome GX for portraits, and Velvia for the aturated look, but if you want to cary one type of slide film to use as alla round I'd recomend Agfa's 100 speed. To save you can by the consumer version. This is my all purpose slide film. Again, I'm not trying to say it's the best for all situations, but it is Good in any situation (as opossed to others like GX terrible for flowers, or architecture, or Velvia terrible for people)

  10. Thanks for everyone's advice. I've found a mirror and may take a stab at repairing it myself, but I'm also getting quotes. I know the camera isn't technically worth metch, but I've been surprised by what it can do, and being my late Grandfather's it has sentimental value.

    Eventually I would love to move up to a better camera, but for now as a stay at home dad, that's beyond my needs.

     

    James,

    I would love to have them, how much do you want for them?

    The inability to convienantly use any filters, or a shade has been the only real drawback on this camera.

  11. I have been enjoying using my late grandfather's ciroflex. It is a

    model E I believ with the Rapax shutter.

     

    Last Night, I took it out of my camera bag to hear an enoying rattle.

    A quick look through the finder told me something was wrong with the

    mirror. Tonight I took the finder off, and the mirror is broken into

    five pieces, and is no longer glued down.

     

    Does anyone know of a good source for a replacement mirror. Other than

    this the camera works beautifully, and I would very much like to

    repair it.

     

    Thanks,

    Jason

  12. Dan

    Yeah, I will definately be going back. I just didn't have time to argue then, and I really needed the prints I'd dropped off there.

     

    Jordon

    Yep exactly, Still it's really the only way to go sometimes. I wanted some nighttime shots of a fountain, but without the water effect of a long shutter time. I had a couple of rolls left, so figured I'd see what it looked like at 800

     

    Hans,

    Yes it can cause confusion, still I'd expect my instructions to be followed by the lab. Probably a good idea would be for such films to be labelled something like

     

    Ektachrome Push2 1600 that would avoid the confusion.

  13. Kodak 1600 Ektachrome is designed to be pushed two stops to achieve a 1600 speed.

     

    The Film canister itsel has places to mark the speed which look like so

     

    ----------------

    | 800|1600|3200|

    | p1 | p2 | p3 |

    ----------------

     

    Not only did I tell them EI 800 and ask specifically for a 1 stop push. I also maked it on the canister.

     

    I would first off expect the lab to be somewhat conversant with this not uncommon high speed film, second of all to listen to the customer when he asks for a one stop push, and third to look ath the canister and see it says to push 1 for ei800.

     

    Maybe I'm asking too much.

     

    In all honesty it wouldn't have bothered me if I hadn't said Push 1. I know they assumed it was a mistake and I meant pull 1, but I think they should have at least called me before doing that.

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