jason_fitzmaurice
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Posts posted by jason_fitzmaurice
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Don't know if you are mxing from concentrate, or stock, but mix dilution B however you normally do. I find 6.5 minutes to be a better time though. Really a beautiful film. Has more grain than many 400 speed films, but just has a fantastic look.
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Agfa was beautiful if you scanned/printed it yourself. A local photographer once told me he fell in love with Agfa products in Germany. When he came home everything he tried with them looked horrible, till he started printing himself. He said everyone in Germany knew how to print it, but no level of lab in the US did. My experience scanning it myself was similar. Neither a pro, or amateur lab could get a scan or a print anything like I could, though the level was close with Fuji/Kodak products.
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Hc-110 Dilution B five minutes (7 minutes gets you 100 with very little change in grain/contrast)
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Hope your R makes a full recovery.
Love the 90mm Elmar 4 on my R. Mine is the uncoated version and there is nothing like it for portraits.
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I make my living doing infant. young childrens photography. I guranteee you I'm using more light than a little flash unit. Don't worry about it.
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All the recomendations for Efke 25 seem right on target. You might also try Efke 50. If you send it out, I'd rate it about 80-100 under noon sun, as most places seem to over process Efke. A big advantage of the Efke films is that the low red sensativity is a help when using those red window advances.
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Personally I use both Gradient Map, and Channel Mixer, depending on the final effect I'm after. Both work well, I just find each one usefull for slightly different effects.
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Lets hear it for Metz customer support. I asked and got a response in less than 24 hours. The text follows.
Dear Mr.
of course, for the connection of your 45 CT-4 to a Fuji S2 ( ~ Nikon
F80) the adapter SCA346/2AF with cable SCA300A can be used as well. The
combination as mentioned above makes possible the flash features as
following:
- Flash readiness on camera
- Correct exposure light on camera
- Automatic flash sync speed
- TTL flash control
- Fill-in flash control
- Auto flash mode
- 2nd curtain sync
- AF assist beam control
- Automatic flash programmes
But, when using another adapter SCA3402 with cable SCA3000C as
recommended under "SCA adapter" and "ARCHIVE with further..." on
ww.metz.de also "flash compensation" also is possible.
Best regards
M e t z - W e r k e GmbH & Co KG
Technical Support
Lutz Goeschel
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SO far I've been advised (by different people) to get a
SCA 3402
SCA 3401
SCA 346/2AF
Would any of these work? If so I'd be tempted to get a 3402 and a 346/2AF as a backup since it can be picked up for a song, and I already have the sca 300a cable.
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Anyone know hich adapter I need to get TTL functionality with one of
these on my S2? I've heard conflicting information.
Thanks,
Jason
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Best option here is going to be black and white. Do you really need 800+. I've usually found with a fast (f2.8) lens I can get by with 300-400 ISO. IF you could get by with 320-64o you could try EPJ Slide film, it is 320 and you can push it a stop. It is VERY expensive though and quite grainy.
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The best advice I ever got on Kodachrome was to think of K200 like a 400 speed black and white film. The grain will be similar to a 400 speed b/w film both in amount and style. It is grainy but does not look at all like the grain in modern films. Don't fight the graiin in Kodachrome 200 use it. It is my all time favorite portrait film, and is also often nice for an almost Monet like look for flowers.
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Okay sounds like the 70-210 f4 it is.
If it is as good as people say I may even forgo the 2.8 for a while longer.
Thanks.
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I'm finally moving to a Minotla AF system, bidding both my Nikon Af
and my X700 stuff goodbye.
I'm trying to decide between these two lenses purchased used. I will
eventually replace either of these with a 2.8 lens, but in the short
term , I need one of these.
Now I'm not interested in the difference in coverage, I can always use
a 28-80 to get to a 70 or 80mm setting, or in the slight speed
difference. My only question is about optical quality. Is one of these
going to produce noticable better images. Particularly in the 135-200
area?
Any advice appreciated.
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Kodachrome is a great Film, and I've neve had to wait three weeks. My Wal-Mart is averaging a 6 day turnaround. Now granted for many things that is too long. I'v found I'm shooting less and less k64, It's been more or less replaced with Astia and RSXII 100. I also love EPR when I can geta good deal on it. K200 though has a look all it's own. Imagine a color film with the shrpness ans grain of Say tri-X. Now it sure can't be my only 200 speed slide film. Pushing it is out of the question, and I can't always wait six days. So that is where RSXII 200 comes in. Nothing loks like k200 though, and I'll shoot it as long a sit is around. Try a coupel rolls, you may love it, you may hate it. I'm not one of those to preach Kodachrome as the only film to use, but it has a charm all to itself.
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Try Kodak Portra 160NC or Agfa Portrait 160. Also you might try NPs from Fuji. Not to my tast but many swear by it. For faster film have a look at Agfa Optima 400. Bottom line..... I'd get some of each, a willing model and compare them for yourself.
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I love EPR, but unless you find a great deal on it it is pretty expensive. You might try Agfa RSXII 100 or 200. Actually i find the 200 looks a lot like EPR. Same medium contrast, edium saturation look, and exactly the same amount of grain.
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I second the Epson heavyweight Matte recomendation. It produces beautiful prints, and if you look around you can usually pick it up super cheap. I bought my last pack of 50 sheets for $12.
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Excellent. Time to make the switch I guess.
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How bout the 350? I like it so much I am considering switching to Canon to have a good small DSLR to go with my film bodies. If it has the higher voltage sync that might seal the deal.
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Sigh,
One less filmstock. I don't shoot a lot of super 8, but I just finished a project where some was shot TriX Super 8, and was hoping to do one in about 18 months with a lot of super 8 Kodachrome. Guess I'll have to find another way.
are there more than two versions of fortepan 100 film?
in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry
Posted
I assume you mean hc-110. IN which case try 4.5 minutes as recomended on massive dev chart. That's actually a little short for precise control, so I might try 8-9 minutes at dilution H.
The different times are because everyone has a different preference. Depending on what kind of enlarger they use, whatgrade of paper they prefer, how much contrast they like in the neg, different impurities in the water, etc. But this should be a good starting point