robert_landrigan
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Posts posted by robert_landrigan
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<p>If you're using the chemistry one-shot, a 30 second water stop bath is fine - it's only if you are planing to use the fixer until exhaustion that an actual stop may be worth the effort(with film). So no more water either way. Ilford's Washaid is meant for hardening fixers,it's a liquid and ya, if you're worried about water usage a clear win.</p>
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<p>HC-110 and Tri-X is a classic combo for a reason - if the dev times seem to short, you can got to crazy dilutions with 1-2 rolls in the tank to get longer dev times. See http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/HC110/index.html for all sorts of info, great page! <br>
For fix, I prefer the Ilford rapid fix, and no need for a dedicated stop bath, water is fine. </p>
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<p>I'll echo the folks saying ditch the 17-55 and get the Sigma 35 1.5, did that very thing and I can;t begin to tell you how much more useful a lens it is. If you want a smaller/lighter alternative, Sell the D300 and 17-55, grab the soon to be out 35 1.8 FX and a little critter.</p>
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<p>Blink. Seems a tad pricey way to go for a 'starter'. A good condition M6 and 50 2 should run you a thirds of this? </p>
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<p>I can always tell my G2 pics from the neg sheet - about 90% in focus, and those razor sharp. Love that combo. The 90 is a great lens as well, but honestly, the focus was fiddly enough that I preferred the M6/ 90 elmarit combo. I really wish Sony had skipped the whole Minolta acquisition and bought out the Contax line - imagine if they had started the NEX line on G mount lenses:) Fun, fun camera!</p>
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<p>This is the kinda of thing that makes me really look at future Fuji cameras - I have an x100 that just got better, for a 3 year old discontinued camera:) </p>
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<p>I use my P67 at the playground with my kids - not a thing you can do with the RB. Studio work I'd say RB, anything else the P67 wins.</p>
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<p>Having bought from DigitalRev based in Hong Kong, you're safe enough from a seller with good feedback, but I'd wait. You'll get a tax bill from the shipper in many cases for customs/tariff fees, I did on a lens I purchased and it came out of the blue. Of course, i did get free overnight international shipping, so, I'm going to call that one even:) But I would caution waiting, as you may not get a warrantable camera if you don;t get a us model imported officially, and at the price, you want a warranty - just in case.</p>
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<p>With all the sales and rebates on the D7000, it's sure to be replaced soonish. The D600 is a real good bet, and the D7200 or whatever it may be might be a winner in your case. High speed is seen by Nikon as a 'Pro' feature, and so it's going to be in the D4 for now - and if they did decide to do a fully Pro DX camera, as well, but I can;t seem them bothering with such a beast based on their past performance.</p>
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<p>There is an iPad app coming, just not yet released. Probably was waiting until Apple had their camera raw updated to support the D3200 RAW files. Nikon is notoriously slow on software, so it may still e a little wait, tho.</p>
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<p>White Plains, New York is a great little airport with an honest to god observation dek. Love that place:) </p>
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<p>Another vote for Efke 25, it's really pretty stuff, but if you're developing it yourself, be very careful, as it will scratch easily. Also, something to consider is the Dr5 process, while pricey, if you aren;t developing your self it may not be that much more. Some films in that process do amazing things, and could be worth taking a look. </p>
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<p>Cavanaugh Flight Museum is by far the best stop - lots of aircraft, very nice collection. Frontiers of Flight is a good followup as well, but not as many airplanes.</p>
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<p>I tried out the E-PL2 for the same reasons you're looking for, and found it came close, but not close enough to keep. At 300 bucks, it's a better camera than any point and shoot at that range, but all in all, for the same uses, the Nex-5N or Panasonic GX-1 are obviously better, if more expensive choices. Just too hard to use manual controls, and the AF was not as good as I would like.</p>
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<p>Having gone from a D80 to D7000, i don't have a single complaint. The sensor is flat out better than the D300, and while the AF and frames per second is slower, it's still quite good. Unless you shoot a lot of sports and must have every bit of AF speed and FPS, there's really no contest.</p>
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<p>The Pentax 6x7 is a steal nowadays, and has a ton of great lenses. I've never shot mine from a tripod and have a ton of great results - granted, i shot 400 speed film and keep the shutter speed about 125/sec, but i can keep up with my son on the playground with it:) The fuiji rangefinder sound like a great deal, but for portraits they're a pain. The rangefinders are not that plight, and focusing takes longer than it should. Pentax 645s are also great, but the lens prices have jumped up a bit with the 645D being out. If you are trying to keep the cost down, a Bronica ETRS/ERTSi is another option, reliable cheap camera.<br>
But i'm in love with the 6x7, the 105 or 150 give great bokeh and are pretty fast.</p>
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<p>The Panasonic is a fantastic camera, and looking at the design ideas between the two, I'd go for a TS3 over whatever canon puts out next. They view their waterproof line as very simple, basic cameras that don;t leak. Which is great, but the TS3 or AW100 will have more features - even if most of those are to turn off other features - than the more basic D10 type camera.</p>
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<p>If you are getting into digital now, I can;t see any reason short of cash to not get at least a D7000 - it completely blew me away, and still does. If you are budget limited, The D300 is a great camera - not as good as the D7000 except for buffer speed, but a good machine nonetheless. But at 2/3's a D7000....i'd save up:)</p>
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<p>KEH.com, and a EOS Elan II, Elan 7, A2 or A2e. For a lens, a 35 f/2 or 50 1.8, the 50 should be around a hundred bucks or less and is a great lens. </p>
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<p>From the D70/D70s, the D7000 is....well, pretty durn nice:) I went from a D80 to my D7000, and I've never been happier with a camera purchase, ever. It ties with the joy of my first bought for me with my own money EOS A2 :) Seriously, every single thing about the camera is better, except the flash sync. But the LCD panel, controls, menus, battery life, flash options, handling, construction - all worth the money. And then you get the sensor. It's a liberating moment when you realize how much more you can do. Your cards may indeed be bad, or the little plastic guides that keep the contacts separate may have gotten damaged, and are blocking one or more.</p>
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<p>Neopan 400/Legacy Pro is nice stuff, but it develops_quick_ for a bit less grain, you can either go for a great dilution like 1:63, or less agitation - i process in a JOBO, so got for great dilution, and it seems to do okay. Great shots- and while i really prefer having two control wheels, the light weight and small size of the rebels is attractive.</p>
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<p>Glad to see some Signet 35's, such a pretty camera - <br /> <a title="DSC_4241.jpg by leicalemur, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/5450237152_341a0902a5.jpg" alt="DSC_4241.jpg" width="500" height="331" /></a><br /> And, of course, the immortal Hawkeye - <br /> <a title="DSC_4263.jpg by leicalemur, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5060/5449631203_6e1565a068.jpg" alt="DSC_4263.jpg" width="331" height="500" /></a></p>
<p>And the very 'unique' Mercury II -</p>
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<p>I was getting very confused with my D7000 for a while, until i realized the same thing - the focus areas as shown in the view finder are smaller than reality.</p>
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<p>The Nikon Coolscan 9000 is fantastic, an Epson v750 with a glass film holder is close, and anything else will just frustrate ya:)</p>
Help me choose a compact
in Mirrorless Digital Cameras
Posted
I'd have a hard time recommending an
S120 when the rx100 delivers so much
better results. If you can live with a
fixed lens, the coolpix A and Ricoh GR
are even better. The Fuji X30 is also a
strong contender, albeit not as strong
as those.