friskybongo

JDMvW - thanks for the link to Lens Focal Length Conversions. Ken Katz - thanks again for your explanations.

Ken Katz, Thanks for replying. An additional question regarding your previous reply to my post: "If you put a 100mm lens on a Canon crop body camera and compare the image to FF camera with a 160mm lens (or a zoom lens set at around 160mm), both cameras will provide the same field of view." So if I put the 100mm EF lens on a Canon FF camera and photographed the lighthouse and then put the same 100mm (not 160mm lens as you mentioned) EF lens on a Canon crop camera and photographed the same lighthouse, I'm thinking that the size of the lighthouse in the center of the frame would be the same from both camera/lens combinations but the image taken with the crop body would simply "trim out" the bottom and sides of the image. Sorry for not understanding this and thanks again for your help.

Still confused despite all these detailed replies. Let's back to the OP's lighthouse example. Say I have a 200mm EF Canon lens and I place it on both a full frame and then a crop camera and take a picture of the lighthouse. My understanding is that the lighthouse itself will be the same size (not magnified on the crop camera) but the top/bottom and sides of pics taken with the crop camera will simply be "trimmed". If this is correct, why do some folks say they don't need a telephoto lens since the pics taken with say a 100mm EF lens on a crop camera will take images equivalent to a 160mm lens if nothing is magnified? Perhaps I need to reread the entire thread.

Tony, your observation gave me food for thought. Although I eat a lot of fast food, none of it actually moves. Guess I was blinded by gear acquisition syndrome. I read a book by a food photographer who uses a swivel bracket and I thought that if I had the same equipment I would be able to take great pics also.:) I've decided not to purchase a bracket. Thanks to all who offered their advice and to Tony who save me from an expensive spend.

Thank you Jochen. I prefer to use a tripod instead of handholding the rig. I'll look into a rotating tripod collar.

Thanks everyone. AJG - I've never used an L bracket before. Which Manfrotto model do you use? Would I need any adapter to attach it to my Canon 80D / Slik Pro 700DX Tripod with the 3-Way pan and tilt head? The Custom Brackets item I referenced allows you to swivel the camera without having to unattach anything. Looks like with an L bracket, I'd need to remove it from the tripod head and manually reposition it.

Mar 26, 2021 11:09 | #1 Hello Everyone, I am a hobbyist looking to experiment with food photography. There will be times when I’d want to quickly swivel the camera from horizontal to vertical orientation without having to adjust the tripod head. I came across this Custom Brackets Digital PRO-SV Bracket Kit DIGITAL PRO-SV KIT https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/488148-REG/Custom_Brackets_DIGITALPROSVKIT_Digital_PRO_SV_Bracket_Kit.html (bhphotovideo.com) and wonder if this is the correct/best solution. When swiveling the camera with this device, would the lens axis remain the same or would I need to make a slight adjustment? The price seems somewhat high but if it works the way I need it to it may be worth it. Any other devices I should look at? Thoughts?

The lack of any replies seems to confirm my thoughts about the viability/reliability of the Godox brand.

Hello All, I know Godox is a popular solution and receives good reviews. But what about repairs? I've heard that after the initial warranty expires, you're out of luck. True? What's been your experiences? Thank you.

Hi All, Found the answer. Go to menu 6, Silent LV Shoot and select Disable.

'm using a Canon 80D with an Alien Bee Digibee 800. When I use the optical viewfinder the flash will sync but when I switch to Live View it does not syc. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Hi Eveyone, Don't know if this is the right forum but here goes . . I want to start taking portraits and wonder which would be the best software to use in post - Portrait Pro or Adobe Elements. Your opinions are appreciated. Thanks.

Back in the '70s, I traded in my Nikon FTn and purchased the Olympus OM1. The only thing I didn't like about it was the viewfinder. Yes, it was big and bright but to my eyes, lacked contrast. This made manual focusing difficult. Everything else was great!

mag_miksch: I would be sending the film to a commercial lab and not doing it myself. Question: when film (negatives or transparencies) is scanned, is some image quality lost in the process? Would quality be better if prints are made the traditional way via enlarger onto photographic paper?

Thanks Orsetto!

Update: Thank you for your comments. I'm looking at the 150mm f/3.5 lens now. My question: If I'm taking portraits with this lens on the Mamiya and have them scanned and printed to say 12"x18" or 16"x24", would they exceed the image quality of the same portrait taken with the Canon 80d and a 70-200 f/4.0 or 100mm f/2.8 macro? Regards.

Hi All, I have a Mamiya 645AFD (not the AFD II or AFD III) and am looking on ebay for a portrait lens (already have the 80mm). I'm thinking of either the 120mm macro or 150mm. What were the different versions/iterations that were manufactured by Mamiya? Thank you.

Ok, so I found the following adapters and need to know which one to get; would either one work? IOGEAR USB 3.0 Type-C Male to Type-A Female Charge & Sync Adapter (Space Gray) Pearstone USB 3.0 Type-C to USB Type-A Adapter (6")

James_lai and Lrblackburn, Yes, the cable that comes with the reader and the dongle both need to use the only USB A port that is built into the laptop; the dongle works fine. I'll research the adapters you mention. Thanks for the tip folks and the quick replies!

Hi Sanford, I've just started using it. My temporary solution is to use the touch screen to select and move all the photos at once into one picture folder on the C drive and then reinstall the mouse for further editing. Still looking for a permanent solution. My HP Spectre has the following ports - 1: USB-A, 2:USB-C (Thunderbolt), 1: HDMI and 1: Micro SD.

Hi All, I have a Lexar Professional USB 3.0 Dual-Slot reader https://www.lexar.com/portfolio_page/professional-usb-3-0-dual-slot-reader/ When I plug it into the port of my HP Spectre x360 15” laptop, I first need to remove the Logitech dongle for my wireless mouse. This disconnects the mouse and forces me to use the touch screen to select images to transfer from my SD card into the proper folder on the laptop. Once done transferring, I can remove the reader and plug the dongle back in to use the mouse again. I find this extremely inconvenient. How can I plug in the reader and keep the dongle inserted at the same time? Thanks!

Jochen - Thanks for the explanation.

Hi All, I’ve never felt the need to employ auto focus microadjustment on my lenses; too much trouble plus my pictures look fine. With Canon and Nikon releasing their mirrorless full frame cameras, I thought I read somewhere that these mirrorless cameras don’t require/need any adjustment. Is this true and if so, why. And if so, is this only for their new lenses or any lens that fits? Thanks.

Never mind. Just received this reply from Think Tank (I have version 3): "Depending on which Hubba Hubba Hiney you have, the original or the V3 will determine if you have a white plastic tongue or not. If you have the Hubba Hubba Hiney V3 the white plastic tongue was removed and the belt pass through was changed to a more traditional pass through. But if you have the older Hubba Hubba Hiney then you should have the plastic tongue."