philip_meadows1

I've just looked at the file- if anything, it's a little blue. Open the levels tool and select the

blue channel. Pull the gamma slider to the right until you see the changes that you like.

With the info tool open, you'll see the values come into balance. You can never argue witht

the numbers. Good luck.

Look at your info tool with the color picker on a neutral area of the road. All chanels

should be close in value. A high # in one of the channels will suggest a color cast. Open

levels and double click the midtone picker. Set the channels to 127. Do same for highlight

and shadow. Set highlight to 245 and shadow to 10. By selecting the gamma (midtone) in

levels and clicking on the neutral area of the road should neutralize a cast. You can keep

clicking around the image until you get what you are looking for.

Load the film and place the baseplate on the camera. Wind on twice and watch the film

being transported. Remove baseplate and close back before replacing baseplate in normal;

state. It guarantees 100% non film advance failure. Yes, it takes a minute, but it it

foolproof.

Prpbably out of budget but If anyone wants a Imacon 343 (has the Hasselblad logo-only 3

mths old) I have mine for sale. I had the Imacon badged version but had it replaced with

the Hassy tag. These are amazing scanners but I've caught up with my archives and will be

shooting digital capture once this thing is sold. Thanks.

Christian, email me off forum, I'll help you out.

Here's my take... As a professional photographer at age 42 and with a 5yr old son, I was thinking of an appropriate way to introduce some history into my young sons life. I just purchased a brand new MP silver along with a 35 1.4 asph and a 75 1.4 Summilux. Yeah... that cost a lot (or did it?). I will use this stuff on an almost daily basis including 2 weddings per month which I get paid $3-5000 for. HOPEFULLY my son will appreciate in time that his dad made a living with this camera including putting him through college etc., and also appreciate the wonderful history behind it all. By the time I've finished with it, the cost now will prove to be negligable. I doubt even he won't be able to buy b&w film for it 50yrs from now. Lifes good, shoot it!

hmmm...<div></div>

yeah... it's called art! Photography is a means of expression, not a perfect medium. As per another posters comments, this forum contains a lot of "new farts" who know very little and want to convince us "old farts" that film is dead, dead, dead and digi rules the world. Now... it's only recently that the newbies in the dot com game were telling trusted old time bricks and mortar companies that their businesses were technically dead in the water! Whoa... hold that horse! So whats it all about then folks? 35mm film is brilliant, just what is there not to like about a great content print blown up to 30x40? Grain can and often ='s drama. MF Astia scanned on my Imacon is stunning too! Digital is clean, pure, a bit like the vestial virgin but I would'nt fancy jumping into bed with her due to lack of experience... Too bad.

Trevor, the images on this link I took on Astia. It is very nice and I use it for most of my color projects. These images were shot 35mm.

You will also find that it has an extrta stop of latitude as opposed to Velvia and it is also the finest grain film on the market currently with a RMS of 7 where Velvia is 8 and it scans extremely well. Good luck. Link here http://philipmeadows.com/lrh-gallery.htm

Hope I did this correctly.

Just shot these for fun today. Tri-X/ ID11 Imacon scan. Please feel

free to comment.<div></div>

Well... as for what I would do in Marys' situation, definitely get rid of that potential client who is NOT a client! When you get treated obnoxiously- well... thats easy too, pack up go home give em their money back along with the cut up negs in a garbage bag! Trust me, I've done it and would do it again! We don't have to take crap but with experience we learn to see the red flags as Mary did.

By the way, my new website is close to done but is live though. Thanks to Steve Tout who is a forum member here, he happens to be a skilled web developer so if any of you need help there- he's a good contact. www.philipmeadows.com

A color to B&W conversion only takes minutes, and the vast majoriety of wedding clients won't see any difference between it and a shot done on a true film B&W.

 

Bruce, I have to strongly disagree on this point! As a hard working professional with copious amounts of experience in both PS and B&W conversion, I have to stress that: a)yes you can get away with it

b)it suits us working boyz, but can a client tell the difference? You betta believe it! Would you shoot colour film and convert if your client wanted a B&W shoot? Curious to yours and others comments (not a challenge here).

I inherited a PC outlet adapter on an M2. It plugs into the Leicas flash socket. Is this ok to use a PC cable to a Viv 283 or will it fry the flash?

 

Thanks

check out the thread for "help with 35 lens" I have a friend who might sell you his Summicron DR! LOL!!

Thanks guys for your input. I'm coming down on the Asph version. Any recommendations for a source (excellent used)?

 

Thanks

<div></div>

Now this is a classic!<div></div>

Al, what the hell happened with the 50 DR? Is that a dog? Have you experienced this before as it's given me the willies! Whats the best 35 version for wedding / people stuff IYO?

 

Thanks to the poster on the 35 Canon by the way.

Rob, thanks for your answer. I'm really not bothered about the light falloff and sharpness as I will use mainly for people. I am concerned very much about flare control. I shoot a lot of images backlit. How does the pre asph handle flare? I would really like to not have to buy the latest and greatest, I'm just not that way inclined but I need what I need. Thanks again.

I need a 35mm lens urgently. Could you please advise whether the

Summicron pre Asph is adequate or should I purchase the Asph ersion.

I damaged my 50 cron beyond reasonble repair and have decided to

replace with the 35mm. I have just used a borrowed 50 cron DR and it

proved to be a dog when ANY amount of backlight appeared in the

image (flaring and halos everywhere). So help with the 35 question

please and if anyone has something for sale please let me know.

 

Many thanks.

"Mr Levine" (like that!), and granny might have been doing 1000 other things that Steve did'nt see or capture! So what? Whats not there is not there and the client could'nt care less, right? Are you perfect Mr Levine? Ever make a mistake? C'mon, don't play headteacher here!

Guy's, if Steve says he shot that many images, I'm sure he did! I'll be looking at them soon anyway as I'll be making the album (I HOPE)!

As for digital- who cares really about the D&P expense?

IMHO the shot on the right is superior. It has much more body to it and the shadows create more of a sculpting effect. There is so much more to an image than purely filling in the darker spots as it were. I find a lot of my images are shot contrajeur or highly side lit. Many times I even shoot bridal portraits using light and shadow without a hint of eye contact from the bride thus allowing the viewer to ponder about the brides thoughts. Fill flash photographer seems to destroy that element and so as Marc suggested, it plays safe. Probably it's important to discover what your client likes before turning on the instant sunshine or turning it off. It's a wonderful thing Marc, to look at ones past images can certainly get us back on track. Does this mean more silver halide in your future???

Example of 17mm rectilinear.

Tim, I also agree with above statements. 2-3 rolls per hr is about average. I differ a little by using 24 exp rolls of Fuji X-tra 800. I like the extra contrast especially at receptions, the colors are a little punchier too. Reasons for shorter rolls: I check, check and re-check that my gear is working correctly and that film did'nt break or other such stupid stuff (it's happend!).