jim_foley4

I haven't taken this lens apart but I have worked on others. Generally they come apart from the front. The rear elements are often the last ones to come out. If this lens is in otherwise good condition I would leave it alone or have it done by a shop. For me this would be a pretty expensive lens to experiment with but that's just me.

Thanks Mike. I didn't know that site existed. I'll keep an eye on it until I go.

I will be in Phoenix with a free day and a half in mid March. I was thinking

about doing a little hiking in the Superstition Mountains. I was wondering how

the wild flowers in the area might be this year. Any suggestions or input

would be appretiated. Thanks.

Jim

Hasn't this issue been discussed before? Just kidding. I agree and have to add that even with a search you don't always find those old posts.

I have a 120J but not the battery pack. Looking at B&H it seems like the battery uses a simple "wall-wart" transformer to charge it. Search for the CHG-20 to get a better look. It should be pretty easy to find a replacement locally that works on 220V. The output voltage and current will be written on the wall-wart. You could also order the flash from bhphoto.com Good luck.

So it's just for people who don't read the manual ;-)

Hi all. On the D200 I noticed that there is shutter speed setting of x250.

(Right after bulb.) I found nothing in the manual about it. Is there anything

significant about it? With or without flash does it do anything different

than a normal setting of 1/250 sec ? Thanks.

If you are just after conversion and already have Photoshop what about Nikon View software? It's Nikon, free, does basic raw adjustments and supports jpeg and tiff.

I bought the "ADIDT M1" off ebay for about $12. It is worth the money I paid vs. the Nikon product. The plug fits firmly into the camera socket. Mine will definitley NOT fall out. I am very careful putting it in and out of the camera as it is tight. It has a two-stage button (focus - fire) and works quite well. Wire is nice and flexible, it would not call it flimsy. Strain-relief at button and connector is quite good. It works fine and I expect it will easily last many years. After spending $2500 for camera, lens, & CF card I decided I could do without the Nikon release for a while.

Great link. Thanks.

 

Jim

Hi,

Has anyoned used the Lexar Wa 133x CF cards with the D200? They are not

listed on the Nikon site as approved but the Wa 80x cards are. Anyone know a

reason why not or have personal experience? Thanks.

The service manual is on the net somewhere. Don't forget to pop the red dot out of it's depression and remove the screw that's under it. It is the only hidden fastener. You can make a wrench by drilling a 5/8" hole and splitting a 1/8" piece of strong plastic to remove the shutter release nut. Good luck.

The X700 has an electronic shutter release on the side of the lens mount. It will also accept a standard cable release. If you get a Cord SP (I think) with a connector you can easily extend it pretty much as long as you need it and use a push button to trigger the camera. There are other minolta cords (L & S) you can use if you're willing to cut them up and splice in a wire. This is the least expensive way to do it anyway. It will of course trigger flash(es) and winder normally.

Hi,

Hunters use IR triggered cameras to figure out where the game hangs out. Try looking here: http://www.nativeoutdoors.com/stealthcamera.html

Good luck.

Thank you Dave for such a complete and quick answer.

Hi,

I did some searching and I would like to verify that I can mount and meter

with a manual focus lens using a Tamron Adaptall 2 (AI, AI-S, or AI-E) on a

D200. So here are the questions... Is this true? Which Tamron mount version

would be best? Lastly, what capabilities would I have: wide open metering,

stop-down metering, auto aperture functionality, ...? Thanks in advance, and

yes I am new to Nikon.

There was a recent thread on this subject on yahoo I think. To summarize, either the problem is the flex circuit under the top cover, or the shutter release/meter button, also under the top cover. The easiest solution was to turn the shutter speed to the mechanical position when not used. It's the X or O I don't remember which. That was said to stop the drain. Hope this helps.

The second part of this question was where to get screens. I would also be interested in an L or G screen for the X-700 or XD-11. Does anyone know where to find them these days? Thanks.

 

Jim

Looks bad. It would have to be REALLY cheap. I would wait. There will be another along any day. Also try KEH.com for a bargain lens. They are usually quite good and can be returned. I think I paid less than $100 for a perfect one with the matching 2x and a mount on e-bay. That was over a year ago and they might be cheaper now. Good luck.

No one mentioned Cape May. You can't more South than that in South Jersey. Plenty of birding there. It's a nationally recognized birding location. Also, all along the Delaware Bay is nice. You can even get sunsets on the water. And there are Bald Eagles in a few different spots near the river and bay. I think I'm inspiring myself to get out there too. I'm in East Greenwich Twp.

This may be a duplicate as the first response failed. Anyway, I don't know how the diopter mounts on the M645 but some Minolta maual focus (SR-t, XD, XE, X700, etc.) stuff fits the Mamiya M645 eyepiece. I have a Minolta eyecup and right-angle finder that fits my M645-1000s PD and meter-less prisms. Hope this helps.

I was having the same problem on a 4490 scanner which is much the same as the 4990. I changed the scan resolution and they went away. I don't have a lot of experience with the scanner yet. I was using negative mode with 645 film in the 120 film holder. Let me know if you find out more. Good luck.

I see that you found the Kiron-Klub. They all like the Viv S-1's and Kirons. I'm sure they are good. I have the Minolta MD 70-210 f/4 and I have to say it is one of the best lenses I own. The constant aperture makes it extremely versatile for non TTL flash use. If you can find and afford one, just get it. It's definitley worth waiting for.

I had some old B&W film of my dad's that I tried to straighten. I loaded them on a processing roll, rinsed them in running water at 68 degrees F for a while, then put them in PhotoFlow and hung them to dry. It kind of worked so I cut them up to scan and they curled right up. Now they are in film sleeves being pressed. Good luck.

Thanks Don. It works fine now.