jim_foley4

<p>Andy, thanks for that information about active d-lighting. I had no idea that anything impacted the RAW file. Is there anything else that does?</p>

<p>Thanks to all. I ordered what I hope is the ART version from KEH. The description and Sigma part number were both right for the ART but the picture was not. I'm not sure why I didn't think to call before pulling the trigger this morning. They processed the order almost instantly. Oh well. I hope I get the ART and I hope it's a good one. If not I'll be out the return postage. Don't tell my wife I bought it. ;-)</p>

<p>Thank you Mike, Andy and Shun. Andy, you are correct they are from KEH and both listed as Nikon mount. Thus my confusion but I've seen them mixed other places as well. Shun, your explanation makes sense and Mike's link shows them all. I never thought of that. Mike, the DG HSM would be nice but unfortunately difficult to justify. Thanks. </p>

<p>And without...</p><div></div>

<p>With AF/M switch...</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks Shun but the second review is the newest ART version. Here are photos of what I think are different versions...</p>

<p>I'm looking for a used Sigma 30mm/f1.4 DX lens and I'm finding what I think are multiple versions of the EX DC HSM lens. Neither is the A (ART) version and I'm not finding much by searching the Internet. It looks like one has a AF/M switch and the other does not. If this is true, is there a name difference and which one is older? More importantly, is one better than the other? I understand that better is subjective but let's say overall optical performance and build quality. Any other input is welcome. Thanks.</p>

<p>Jim</p>

<p>Carry your ID and your return paper or whatever it's called when you drive. I had the unpleasant experience of being stopped by the police on the road just to be checked one evening. They say nothing and are not particularly friendly. It was a little intimidating. Otherwise I don't recall much trouble driving there. We had a small SUV and the roads were okay back in 2011. Look up Ecoglide for a really good zip-line. Make sure you have a strong camera strap!! We were there at Thanksgiving and still had quite a bit of rainy weather and cloud cover. Overall it was a great trip.</p>

<p>I have a Velbon like this and it works fine. It also has side-to-side movement unlike the Arca rail. There is some backlash in the screws and gears but if you're thinking of doing a lot of macro focus stacking you might need a micrometer stage. Adding a generic Acra plate to the bottom and clamp to the top is not expensive and you can use them for other things as well. I also have an old macro rail from a Vivitar bellows set that cost next to nothing on the used market. That is quite rigid and has a rack and pinion gear movement. I would say that if you want high precision you have to pay for it but there are a lot of options below a micrometer stage that will get the job done. Good luck.</p>

<p>Thanks Phil. I did buy the WU-1 for the D7100. I stumbled across a Nikon refurb from B&H I think. It actually works pretty well. My only gripe is that it ONLY works with a smart phone or tablet. It would be great if Nikon would do the same functionality for a Windows PC. I put the FlashAir in my wife's point&shoot.</p>

 

<p>Erik - I now use the GP-1 if I want GPS. The only thing I don't like about it is that it takes a little while to find a location if you turn off the camera a lot. Which I tend to do. It's really a shame that the little Bluetooth adaptors are either dedicated to GPS or file transfer. The Nikon WU-1 won't even connect to a regular PC. Such an artificial limitation.</p>

<p>Did you look at the MC-35 or MC-35A? You would have to use an older hand-held GPS that supports serial communication (not USB). I have this cable and an older Garman unit but I have not looked at all the data recorded with it. The GPS I have does not support a magnetic compass. Bearings are determined by direction of motion. I assume the MC-35 is powered by the camera but the GPS runs a very long time on it's own battery. Also you can us an external antenna on the GPS. So you can keep the GPS in your pocket/pack and put the antenna on your hat for better reception. The other good thing about this is the GPS can stay on all the time so you don't have to reestablish satellite links.</p>

<p>Also check for Rear Curtain Sync and Slow Sync. Both are set with the flash mode button. I don't think they are in the menu. I got caught with Rear Curtain Sync on my D7100 this weekend. It worked like it was supposed to but it sure wasn't what I wanted at the time.</p>

<p>Sorry, I don't know android. Try Helicon Remote for Android. It looks capable.</p>

<p>There are so many variations on this. It depends what you are using for tethering and what camera it is. I know with a D7100 and using DigiCamControl on a PC you can tether and use a standard remote trigger like a Vello FreeWave. I have not tried the IR remote while tethering this way. </p>

<p>So for the next person that searches for FlashAir this is what I have learned so far. The card and app actually work great in a point and shoot. Connection is reliable and the transmission is pretty fast. As far as the D7100 recognizing the FlashAir as it would an Eye-Fi card, well it doesn't. There is an Eye-Fi Upload setting in the Setup Menu that I assume shows up if you have an Eye-Fi card installed. There are also status indicators on the rear screen that show up. None of this happens when you insert a FlashAir card in the D7100. That's quite a disappointment. The FlashAir card seemed to be sporadic in operation in the D7100. On an iPhone or Laptop the FlashAir network would show up and then disappear. I'm guessing that the D7100 to save power shuts down the cards when they don't need to be active. I tried lengthening timers and such. I found somewhere that you need to be in Live View Mode for the FlashAir. That does seem to work much better. I don't use Live View very much though. I may post more as I try other things. FlashAir also supports a pass through mode so you can connect to the card and still get to the Internet through your smart phone. If anyone can tell me more I would love to hear it. Thanks.</p>

<p>I compared comercial units and felt Nero had the most to offer in a small package. Right out of the box it has sound, lightning, and broken beam/laser. It can trigger camera or flash. It has HDR and time lapse too which are nice but most cameras do this better. But it has the DIY input which gives lots of flexibility. That's mainly why I picked that one. The DIY input can take a simple contact or more complex analog input. <br>

FYI... if you want a good quality trigger cable get a Vello FreeWave Camera Release Cable as a spare part from B&H. They have all the brands and they are only $7.50 including the Nikon 10 pin. And the jack is compatible with the Nero trigger!! </p>

<p>I got the Nero trigger for Christmas but I haven't really tried anything too difficult yet. It has a user input jack with sensitivity and delay settings. If you can build the sensor you can plug it in and get everything else. I am capable of building and programing my own design but I decided it would be quite a lot of effort. There are some plans and software out there for Adruino units as well. Good luck.</p>

<p>I have a D7100 and I was wondering if anyone is using the Toshiba FlashAir. I've seen plenty of posts on the Eye-Fi but I am wondering about compatibility with regard to the D7100. The D7100 manual also only refers to Eye-Fi. Also, other than memory speed is there any other difference between the Toshiba Class 6 and Class 8 FlashAir cards when working with the D7100. Any other pointers with regard to FlashAir use would also be appreciated. Thanks.</p>

<p>Jim</p>

<p>Guess I won't be returning the D7100 for a D400.</p>

<p>What's wrong with the SD-8A or a simlar pack from B&H or Adarama? The after market units are about $75. I use them all the time and the batteries last a very long time. Plus no cords to trip over or special batteries to buy. I've done the internal low voltage thing as well but I like the SD-8A much better.</p>

<p>I have the Nikon GP-1 and it does indeed come with both cables. B&H has each cable separately for "only" $45 each. Ouch.</p>

<p>The police are allowed to lie to you in order to get information from you, get a confession, or get you to incriminate yourself. They are allowed to do pretty much anything short of overt entrapment in order to arrest you for a crime. But as a citizen even lying to the authorities is a crime. I'd say that the police have more than enough leeway to do their job and there is no excuse for overstepping their authority even if these guys were baiting them.</p>

<p>Bring a flash. Maybe more than one and a friend to hold it. There are lots of places you could set up a tripod but I'm not sure they're allowed. There are lots of round steel railings everywhere. You might consider a clamp-on mount. Good luck and have fun. </p>

<p>Bring a light and magnifier and check for fungus. That would make for a cheap lens.</p>