barry_passaris

<blockquote>

<p><em>the UltraSharp U2410 24-inch which Joseph has recommended looks like a more professional setup....</em>euh..sorry to disapointed, but the Dell is a entry level pro monitor for 600$</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Patrick, I was implying that between the two DELL monitors mentioned, the U2410 was better quality than the other, not that either was a pro model.<br>

...can't find any reviews of the Eizo SX2462W. Looks like the NEC 2690WUXi2 is my pick.</p>

<p>Edina, both models you indicate are excellent choices, though way out of my price range, at least here in Australia.<br>

Looks like I will buy either a NEC Multisync 2690WUXi2 (though I was hoping to only go as large as 24" due to physical space contraints) or the Eizo Flexscan Premium SX2462W.<br>

If anyone has any experience with either/both monitors, it would be great to read your opinions.<br>

Thanks.<strong> </strong></p>

Excellent responses everyone. Your advice is most helpful in affirming some of my assumptions and then some!

 

I will do some experimenting once the printer arrives to see what's possible.

 

I gather from your comments that there isn't a software preference (eg. Blowup 2 is better than Genuine Fractals or vice versa) and most function in similar ways?

 

Cheers.

<p>Thanks David but if I go down the Dell route, then the UltraSharp U2410 24-inch which Joseph has recommended looks like a more professional setup.<br>

I have heard though that the U2410 sometimes produces a pinkish tint. Any user-experiences with this monitor?</p>

<p>Thanks John. I'm currently using an old Nikon Coolscan4000 scanner which produces 135mb files from 35mm film format. So if I have a good quality scan, software (either PS or plug-in) can achieve a 16x20 print from a scanned 35mm film image. I ask because I'm fairly inexperienced in the digital darkroom. I know from the old darkroom days that x10 enlargement from film was the enlarging limit (to my eyes anyway) w/out the image degrading considerably.<br>

I'm still awaiting my inkjet printer so I haven't had a chance to experiment as yet with upsized images as prints but I have read that PS plug-in software like Alienskin does a better job than just upsizing via PS. True?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>This is a newbie question...<br>

I want to create A2 size prints from 35mm slide film. If I use some type of up-rez software, will this larger print be comparable to an A4 size print for instance or will there be alot of image degradation?<br>

FWIW, I will be printing on an inkjet, on either Hahnemuhle Rag or canvas.<br>

Which software do you recommend? I am considering Alienskin BlowUp 2.<br>

Any advice appreciated.<br>

Thanks.</p>

 

<p>I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this but Provia 400x is one of the most versatile slide films..grain is like 100 speed film.<br>

Leica M7 with 35mm Summicron latest version (or 50mm Summicron latest version if you are a 50mm shooter) plus Provia 400x is a superb setup for travel.</p>

 

Hi folks,<br /><br />I want to purchase a monitor for photo-editing, colour work but I'm confused by all the issues. I'm not technical by any stretch and my questions are based on what I have read on the net. <br /><br />1. IPS or PVA? From what I have read, IPS is the way to go. However, many of the best-brand monitors, such as Eizo, are S-PVA in my price range. What gives?<br /><br />2. Wide colour gamut or standard? So, wide is better for fine art colour printing to match screen and final print (Adobe RGB). What happens if I also need those same images on a website (sRGB)? How do people get around this with wide gamut monitors? Is standard in fact better if you are using one monitor for both needs?<br /><br />3. Specific monitor recommendation? I have factored in between $1000-$2000 Aussie dollars (US$900-$1800), but preferably in that mid-range. I am considering one of the NEC multisync models. 24" is sufficient. Opinions? <br /><br />4. In this price range, is there really much difference between brands and types with issues such as even brightness across the screen, viewing angles etc?<br /><br />Any advice appreciated.

<p>Pleasing bokeh? Really?<br />....you should try Leica glass.<br>

...and it looks as though there is quite a bit of distortion in the second shot posted.</p>

<p>Street photography<br />1. small camera +35mm prime<br />2. get up close to your subject and become part of the scene<br />3. don't worry about shooting from the hip...make camera visible. This is an honest approach to photography...that is, honest to your subject..that you are not doing anything inconspicuous.<br />4. By making your intentions clear, as per point 3, you end up with more keepers, as well as less blurred shots.<br />5. I hate to say it, but those Leica rangefinders are perfect for this type of photography...buy used!!</p>

<p>Great responses. Thanks.<br>

I will keep in mind the lab recommendations. Wow! Film processing is expensive in London...it is half the cost here in Australia...but I guess most things will be double the price...still, I'm not complaining...I'm really looking forward to this trip.<br>

Thanks for the offer Martin. I may drop you an email in a couple of days. Much appreciated.<br>

If anyone else has any further advice, please contribute.<br>

Cheers.</p>

<p>Hi all,<br />So I'm off to London for the first time in two weeks for two weeks.<br />I haven't shot film for a while and in the past have shot Provia 400x slide film. However, I am thinking of shooting Tri-x exclusively for this trip, which I have never really used before but I am seeking a grainy nostalgic B&W look.<br />The plan is to take both my Leica M7s for the trip, one with Tri-x at 400 and the other Tri-x at 1600 for night shots.<br>

So questions:<br>

1. Is B&W film, and Tri-x in particular, a good idea for London weather/light at this time of year, or should I s tick with Provia?<br>

2. Assuming the B&W option, once I find a lab in London to process (I was actually thinking P eak Imaging via mail order) I was going to request D76 for processing. What would be the best technique/ t imes to advise the lab for 400 and 1600 ISO exposures with this developer?<br>

3. What are the chances of film rated at 1600 fogging, if sent via the mail system to Peak Imaging?<br>

4. Any other labs in London recommended for B&W (or E6)?<br>

Any advice appreciated.</p>

 

<p>Great responses from everyone. Thanks for your contributions, particulary from those of you who are familiar with Leica, Mamiya 7 and TLRs.<br />I think I'm going to take the plunge with the Mamiya 7 +65mm lens (if I can find a good used deal) as your feedback suggests that it can be used similar to the Leica, to some extent anyway.<br />I'm not sure how you all shoot with the limitation of 1/500th sec. shutter speed for street photography, as I even find the Leica's 1/1000th limiting in this regard, in comparison to slrs...in terms of capturing movement vs accurate exposure of slide film vs hand holdable speeds. But I'm assuming it's just a matter of practice and trial and error.<br />Cheers.</p>

<p><<It is senseless to argue against a "never cropper". There is no argument good enough.>><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2351337">D.O. Hennig</a><br />I don't crop because that's the way I've been taught how to shoot..if you find it easier to crop, then do so...I'm not here to argue but to seek advice.</p>

<p>...I forgot to ask...if the Mamiya 7 is used in the 'normal' horizontal position, is the image 6cm horizontally and 7cm vertically or vice versa?</p>

<p>Thanks for all your comments so far..<br /><br /><<The sense of your wish of 6x7 instead of 6x6 escapes me since with your selected lens you either have to crop the picture or you will stumble over your motif. If you crop you can also change the aspect ratio (espacially since 6x7 is also not the same ratio as the Leica 3:2).>> <a rel="nofollow" href="../photodb/user?user_id=2351337">D.O. Hennig</a><br /><br />D.O., I think you've misunderstood me here or possibly I didn't explain correctly..I don't want to maintain the same aspect ratio as 135 format. The format ratio doesn't matter except that I prefer not to have a completely square format...I also never crop my images, even for street photography. So, my style is to be very close to the subject matter, rather than shooting from a distance or across the street. In this way, a 35mm lens (in 135 format) is ideal. Ironically, being closer to the subject is more stealth and people are less likely to object to being photographed even if they notice, and less likely to turn away from the shot...just my experience with the Leica which I wish to replicate using MF.<br /><br />I still am undecided about this so any other comments would be appreciated.<br /><br />FWIW, I did manage to find some links of pros using the Mamiya 7:<br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.klmphoto.com/index.html" target="_blank">http://www.klmphoto.com/index.html</a><br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/photography/index.html?Gallery2/index.html~mainFrame" target="_blank">http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/photography/index.html?Gallery2/index.html~mainFrame</a><br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.stillsgallery.com.au/artists/parke/index.php?obj_id=series_02&nav=2" target="_blank">http://www.stillsgallery.com.au/artists/parke/index.php?obj_id=series_02&nav=2</a></p>

<p><<<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=827079">Wai-Leong Lee</a>...If you can't use a M7 for street photography then it's just your technique, peoplr have been using slr's and rf's for street photography forever. >><br>

I'm assuming you are referring to the Mamiya 7 and not the Leica M7 (which I can use!).<br />I have not seen many photos online of 'true' street photos (Cartier-Bresson style) involving people as subject but taken by stealth using the Mamiya. I do see a lot of architectural/landscape and people posing in the streets but no real great 'street' photos. Could this be that this camera is simply too big for this type of shooting?<br />Can anyone direct me to any online sites of pro/quality street photos using the Mamiya 7?</p>

<p>Hi all,<br />I currently shoot street photography with a a Leica M7 and 35mm 'Cron...stealth shooting, daylight photos, Provia 400x. Which medium camera could achieve something similar so I can produce larger prints?<br>

<br />1. The Mamiya 7 with a 65mm lens? Can I really use this camera like a Leica? I can barely get away with the Leica as a stealth camera. Doesn't the large size of the camera held up to the eye prevent the camera from achieving stealth street photography? Don't people immediately turn away? (No, I do not shoot from the hip!).<br>

<br />2. Will a TLR with an equivalent focal length lens allow for more stealth shooting than the Mamiya, as it does not need to be held up to your eye?<br>

If TLR:<br />a. are there any TLRs which are 6x7 and not 6x6? b. light enough (but still steady) for hand held work? (I'm smallish built).<br />c. more recent model which won't break down immediately (I'm not technically minded that way.."if it broke, throw away!").<br />d. price is limited to the cost of a new Mamiya 7+65mm lens but more likely the price of a used one.<br />Any advice appreciated.</p>

 

"Yes, I was using the proper lens hood".

 

The current 50mm f2 'Cron has a built-in hood! Are you sure you are using the current version?

35mm 'Cron ASPH...sharp wide open...sharp all the way to f11...modern Leica glow..just beautiful!!..it is fixed on my M7! ...no other lens needed!

Hi all,

 

Just wondering if anyone knows of a website which compares the 28, 35 and 50mm

focal lengths, using the same photo. That is, using a tripod.

 

If not, has anybody done this and has pics to post here?

 

...not really a Leica question, I know, though these are the most popular FL

for the M cameras.

 

Thanks.

 

Barry

Thanks to everybody for your comments.

 

Harvey, I hadn't considered the Nikon D40 or D80 models. I don't know anything about them so I'll have to do some reading...but if I can produce at least 11x14 prints and there is a decent lens in the 24-28mm range as well as a 50mm, then this might be the option for me.

 

I have decided against the film option and having seen more images from the Canon G9 and the Ricoh, I'm not too impressed with the lack of detail in the images and some seriously blown highlights in many images...though I have only seen images online. My only previous digital camera has been the original Canon 1ds so I am used to FF sensor quality.

 

So looks as though the camera size will end up larger and more obtrusive than I had anticipated...

 

Thanks again...I will continue my search...

..thanks for your comments Mitch.

 

It is not really an issue of whether I wish to shoot film or digital. I was considering film only from the viewpoint that Leica glass would produce better quality images optically...and as I cannot afford the M8 but may be able to find a cheap(er) M7, it could be a consideration for me.

 

...but my preference is definitely digital...and the price difference even between an M7 and the Ricoh is huge!

 

I am veering towards the Ricoh rather than the Canon based on shots I have seen to date albeit only online.

 

Anybody else care to comment or who has used both the G9 and the GRD II?

 

Thanks.

I am seeking an unobtrusive camera for B+W street photos which can shoot in

RAW. Obviously, I am seeking as best optical quality as I can get. I don't mind

fixed focal length and (though I dread it) I can control dof in CS3 to blur the

background.

 

How does the Canon and Ricoh compare?

 

How large could I print with both?

 

Ideally I would love a Leica M8 but not in my price range. However, as an

alternative, I was considering a Leica M7. How would the Canon or Ricoh compare

to a film camera like the M7? Yes I realise the price difference is enormous

but I know for instance, prints from the M7 are (just) possible at 11x14,

depending on the image. Could I expect at least similar quality prints at 8x10?

 

Thanks in advance.

Leica's w/out passport warranty...does this mean price to buy new may be reduced in 2008?