barry_passaris

Do you know where I can get further info. on the 'Graphic' cameras...maybe a chronology of the different models..there seems to be quite a few. Which one would be best suited for landscape work?

Thanks for your (quick) responses so far.

Stuart, you are right in that the Mamiya 7II still seems like a viable option...just for weight alone..though I would make full use of the negative and I would be unlikely to crop if I purchased one.

 

The Fotoman 6x12 also looks promising as it can be used as a 6x9. It is also more affordable than the Horseman 6x12 and still has shift. I'm not sure if I could handhold such a beast in practice though if I wanted to also use the camera for cityscapes. If anybody has actually used this camera handheld, any comments are appreciated.

 

Any other suggestions? Thanks.

Hi all,

 

I have been reading many posts here re: MF options for landscape photography.

 

I ruled out 6x6 format (don't like square)as well as 6x12 and 6x17 (I cannot

scan such negs on my Nikon 9000). My preference for 6x7 is the Mamiya 7II,

just for weight and portability but I would prefer a format ratio similar to

35mm.

 

Hence, what are my 6x9 options?

 

I have ruled out the Fuji 6x9 cameras as they are fixed lens. In addition, my

experience with my Xpan and 35mm suggests I need a wide-angle option for at

least half my shots.

 

What options do I have in 6x9 for a 3 lens system (equivalent in 35mm to a 19-

21mm lens, a 50mm and perhaps an 80mm)?

 

Weight/portability is a priority. Can I expect a handholdable camera from a

format this big?

 

Is my only option a field camera? The movements would be good but not the dark

cloth scenario in the Australian desert.

 

What about these Paqpro cameras?

http://skgrimes.com/paqpro/index.htm

 

Would they be a better option than say a Horseman or Fotoman 6x12, using 6x9

options?

 

Any advice appreciated.

 

Thanks.

Thanks to everyone for your realistic (though not discouraging) comments.

 

Very helpful.

I wasn't planning to use flower shots as my sole income but I'm just thinking about what type of photography sells compared to my photographic interests.

 

I appreciate all your comments. You have given me food for thought.

 

Cheers.

Hi all,

 

Just enquiring about options and cost of a medium format digital system for

landscape work, preferably in the 6x7 format. I would want prints capable of

A1 size (23x33 inch) with fine detail (of grass in foreground, trees in

background etc).

 

I also want to shoot in Australian semi-arid and Outback environments..think

hot and lots and lots (and lots) of flies! So I did not want to purchase a 4x5

camera and be composing/ gg focusing under a large dark cloth in 40 degrees

celcius, counting the flies that I am chewing on. Also, travelling to remote

locations for up to a month=carrying alot of film.

 

So, I'm seeking a relatively portable digital system which will setup quickly

on tripod. I would also like a system which is capable of close focus (less

than 1 metre shots) as well as telephoto.

 

Is the Mamiya RZ67 an option? If so, what type of digital back is most

compatible? What costs are involved if I can find some equipment used? What

laptop setup would cope with large files for viewing whilst on location?

 

The 1dsII plus Leica R lenses would be a better option in terms of portability

and price. But would it be compromising on image quality?

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks.

Hi all,

 

I'm not sure if I'm posting this one in the right forum.

 

I love photographing flowers (mainly close ups and less so macros) and I am

just querying whether there is a commercial market for such shots.

 

Anyone shooting this type of photography who could advise on what type of

clientele would be interested in this.

 

I thought one option would be to print relatively large (up to approx. 23x33

inches) to attract a more corporate client base of limited edition prints,

rather than selling smaller prints to the 'man on the street'.

 

I'm assuming stock photography does not pay at all these days.

 

Any ideas?

Thanks for the advice Rob. I will give the viewing angle a try (w/out going cross-eyed hopefully).

 

If this is not distortion, then at least I know now that I cannot prevent it and it is not a lens malfunction.

Thanks for your comments. It puts my mind (and my wallet) at ease to some extent.

 

Does anyone know what this type of distortion is called (ie stretching of subject towards edges of image)?

Hi Rob,

 

I'm talking about the stretching of subjects/objects towards the edges, not curvilinear distortion.

 

I'm assuming this is 'normal' as the lens is so wide but I'm just wondering whether the degree of stretching would be less (or more) apparent if I were to purchase another of this same lens.

Hi all,

 

I have been using the Hasselblad version of the Xpan over the last few months

and I have fallen for the panoramic view for street photos.

 

Just a question re: quality assurance issues in relation to the Xpan lenses.

My 30mm has some distortion on the edges, which is most noticeable with people

shots. I have read this is common with this lens in pano mode.

 

My question is whether it would be worth purchasing another 30mm lens just to

compare the level of distortion. Would I find much difference, as I have

previously with my Canon L lenses, or would this just be an expensive venture

(the 30mm lenses are now $1000 more than when I purchased).

 

I raise this question only because the 30mm lens has a 'wow' factor about it

and in my opinion could've been a fixed lens on this camera. As it will

probably remain fixed on my camera, I'm trying to secure the best optics.

 

Thanks in advance.

Alex,

 

Do you know which Jobo is preferable for 35mm slides? I am using an Xpan and Provia 400 and want to start processing my own.

 

Thanks in advance.

another vote for the xpan...love that 30mm lens!

Thanks for your comments...it sounds as though I'm on the right track with my choice.

 

Cheers.

..sorry...I wrote 'sheets' but I do mean plastic 'sleeves'!

Hi all,

 

I recently started using slide film again and I purchased 'Archival Elite'

clear polypropylene sheets to store the slides. This brand claims that its

sheets are archival safe and pvc/acid free.

 

My question is, what characteristics am I looking for in film holders/sheets

for archival security? Am I on the right track with a brand such as this?

 

The sheets tend to keep the film flat which is great but is polypropylene the

best material for archival storage?

 

FWIW, I use an xpan, my slides are not mounted and I scan myself.

 

Any comments appreciated.

 

Thanks.

Thanks for your comments so far.

 

I should mention that I am seeking slide film in particular because it scans so well. I have previously used Sensia 100, which I think is an underrated product, and love the way it scans using a Nikon scanner.

 

I am hoping to print as large as possible (x10) using the xpan and my photos tend to be more architectural (exteriors)and scenes with people in them rather than portraiture. Hence, lack of grain/ good resolution/sharpness is important.

 

I really only need an ISO of 200 to be able to work handheld. So, if I am to go the neg. film route, do I have film options for my purpose that scan well at a film speed slower than ISO 400 (in order to have less grain etc)?

 

For instance, would a consumer film such as Superia 200 or Fuji Pro 160C scan as well to achieve my objective?

 

Any additional comments appreciated.

Russ,

Do you rate the Neopan at ISO 400? I have heard it pulls and pushes well a couple of stops either way.

Hi all,

 

I plan to start shooting again with film using my xpan and I'm seeking a

decent slide film for street photos. Has anyone had any experience in using

both the Sensia 200 or Provia 400 in terms of grain etc.

 

I'm not a big fan of grain for slide film but ISO 100 just isn't enough for an

Xpan to handhold unless the weather is absolutely pristine at all times. So

for versatility I need a higher ISO.

 

For B&W, I'll probably use Neopan 400 (as I read it is less grainy than Tri-X).

 

Any advice for slide?

 

Thanks in advance.

Bill T, Mike and Brian...You are correct.

 

Thanks to everyone.

 

This was 'doing my head in'.

Ok, I think I will need to clarify..

 

I have 3 layers in my layers palette. Layer 2 (the middle one) has a mask. I want that mask to also be on Layer 3 (the top layer). PS Help instructs to highlight Layer 3 and then ALT +drag the mask from Layer 2. Hence, I should have the same mask in layers 2 and 3.

 

But I've tried ALT +drag to no effect.

 

I hope this is clearer.

 

Any ideas? I am using CS.

Hi all,

 

A simple question. If I create a mask on one layer and then wish to copy it to

the layer above (in the same image), how do I do this?

 

All the references to this suggest that I just highlight the layer above and

then Alt + drag the mask onto the layer (on a PC).

 

However, everytime I try this, a symbol comes up indicating that I cannot drag

the mask onto the above layer.

 

I have tried everything to sort this out and it must be something really

simple which I am missing. I have tried both TIFF and psd files, 8 bit and 16

bit images as well as locked/ unlocked layers but with no success.

 

Can anyone help? I'm using PSCS.

 

Thanks in advance.

Thanks Gary,

 

This is the type of software I was seeking. I will check it out.

Excuse my naivety, but is it simply a matter of the bigger the print the greater the viewing distance?

 

If I produce an A2 size print from a 35mm neg and a 6x7, won't the same viewing distance be required but the print from the 6x7 will be more acceptable in terms of sharpness, detail, resolution etc?

Thanks for your comments to date.

 

I read about the merging layers technique from those using FF digital cameras so I thought I would ask about it in relation to film in case the technique varied from digital and if as effective.

 

But the simpler traditional method of hyperfocal or infinity focus and then assessing based on lens distance scale is the obvious function, although more compromising in terms of dof.

 

Obviously I will do my own testing but did not want to reinvent the wheel if somebody already had a workflow which could achieve a maximised dof.

 

Thanks.