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jeg

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Posts posted by jeg

    Shooting with no film :))

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    It is even more simple: Just wrap some paper on an empty spool, fix it with some scotch tape and put in in as take-up spool. Presto, the frame counter will work and the camera interlocks think that film is loaded and you can test the shutter.

    Moving to digital SLR from film

    in Mirrorless Digital Cameras

    Posted

    If you want great image quality, especially for landscapes, look no further than the Canon EOS 5D full-frame camera. But if money is an issue, any of the prosumer crop-factor cameras from the reputable brands will also make you happy. Some offer the advantage that you can use inexpensive manual focus lenses with adapters, but the distinctions are mostly cosmetic and in regards to camera operation (which is a purely a subjective factor). Real differences are that Canon has the most professional (end expensive) system, while Pentax and Sony offer built-in anti-shake technology, whereas Nikon... well, Nikon has decent and well-designed cameras that may or may not be on par with Canon's offerings but have some high-ISO noise and lens compatibility issues on their lower-end bodies.

    Fuji Astia vs. Provia vs. Velvia (100 & 100F) : direct comparison anywhere?

    in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry

    Posted

    On the web (digital images) it is not really easy to see the real differences between these films. On the other hand, the differences are hardly earth-shattering, and comon wisdom is usually right for the obvious applications.

     

    If you shoot portraits of fair-skinned people, the recommendation is Fuji Astia 100F, which is the finest grain slide film today with nice and natural colors and medium contrast. It is my favorite E-6 film and I use it for everything. Try it!

     

    If you shoot other subjects and want saturated color, choose Velvia 100 for bright colors and high contrast pictures.

     

    The differences between everything else is hardly worth the hassle in my humble opinion, unless you are really unhappy with one of these two choices. All slide films are pretty contrasty, have saturated colors and little exposure latitude. The exact lighting will matter more than the film you choose, and under good and colorful light (early morning/evening) every slide film will produce awesome landscapes, even the less expensive consumer versions. In the end, the print/scan matters the most, and this is where a lot of the final look of the image is produced.

    Handholdability of an Isolette L

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    Of course the absence of a mirror makes a big difference, but how much is not easy to say. I agree with the other posters that 1/250 sec is the best speed for sure sharpness, but slower speeds can also give you very sharp images. Camera shake is a random event, when you take enough images you can get a sharp image from time to time at ridiculous slow speed. But faster is always better. And we are all different, too, some have more shaky hands than others.

    Medium format for 350 GBP

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Well, you miss out a lot of things with the RB/RZ. No body has an internal lightmeter, as this function is in some optional prism finders (there is also a fixed WLF with metering, but I'm not sure if it's for the RB or RZ). Those prisms finders are pretty heavy, bulky and expensive, and the magnification is lower than with a WLF and the pop-up loupe. Unless you reeeaally know that you want it, forget about the prisms and use a waist-level finder -- much more convenient and easier.

     

    A hand-held incident light meter is recommended for exposure measuring, and this is what most pros use. Because these are pretty expensive tools, you might want to use your dSLR for light metering, but at first it will take some skill to properly translate the information from one camera to the next (i.e., bellows compensation, exact aperture and ISO number etc). A not-so-expensive meter is the old Minolta Autometer III, while for serious photography I recommend the modern Sekonics ($$$).

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