geostphoto

<p>Yes I have read the FAQ but still can't figure out how to post an image. I click on Insert Image and enter the http link from my gallery but that doesn't work. I tried HTML but that doesn't work either.</p>

<p>http://www.nytimes.com/2015/06/30/arts/harold-feinstein-dies-at-84-froze-new-york-moments-in-black-and-white.html?smid=fb-nytmetro%26smtyp%3Dcur&_r=1</p>

<p>Found it. Fotodiox makes them. $11. on Amazon.</p>

<p>Is there an adapter to allow use of standard threaded filters on Hasselblad lenses?</p>

<p>The logic totally escapes me. You invest in something that's likely to appreciate, at least I do. This is likely to become an obsolete antique sooner rather than later. Leica is an overpriced, under-featured trophy camera for photographers more concerned with their image than the image. Yes the image quality is superb (for 35mm) but so is a used Contax G1 or G2 system for 1/10 the cost.</p>

<p>OK, I think I got it. S is Mirror Lockup and SR is continuous ML. A appears to be Continuous Shooting and AR is CS with ML.</p>

<p>I've never quite been able to justify the expense of a Hasselblad but now that prices have come down to earth I snagged an ELM body cheap. I would appreciate some tips from Hassy heads on proper care & feeding. For example, I've heard of jamming problems between lens and camera, how do I avoid that? Also, even after reading the manual I'm not clear on some of the selector dial settings. O=normal, A=continuous shooting, but what are the other settings used for? How about metering hoods? Is the Kiev any good? <br /><br />Now I need some lenses. I think a 60mm and 150mm should do. The main difference between the earlier chrome and later black versions is basically multicoating? I assume some of this old stuff will need a cla at some point. I'd rather not send by mail. Can someone recommend a shop in the NYC area? Thanks.</p>

<p>I got a 4" T connector and stuck a 3" muffin fan + power supply and "walla" I have a film dryer for $10. I still need to get some A/C filter material. Does anyone have a more elegant solution to duct tape?</p>

<p><a title="DIY film dryer by Geodesiq, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5333/9773995062_d6668b670d.jpg" alt="DIY film dryer" width="397" height="500" /></a></p>

<p>If you want grain go with Tri-X @ 800 in Acufine, Diafine or some high energy developer. If you want tons of grain Tri-X @ 800 in Dektol (paper developer) 1:3, 68o, 3-4 minutes. Agitate 15s/min. Of course do a test run beforehand. <a href="

<p>My guess would be the film advance would be more fragile but I'm not a mechanic. At that price tho you can afford to replace the camera yearly just hang on to any good lenses.</p>

<p>My father brought back a Kiev AM from Poland years ago. It worked. The Jupiter 12 35mm Biogon copy is legendary for its sharpness. Leica image quality at 1/15 the cost. If you're planning on putting more than a few dozen rolls a year thru it it's not the camera for you tho.</p>

<p>I'd like to use a Jupiter 12 35mm on a Canon 7 but was reading it might be incompatible because there might be interference. I've mounted it on the camera but haven't fired the shutter yet for fear of damage. Any thoughts?</p>

<p>I've decided to go with 2 cameras: a high end FF (probably a Canon Mk5) and a compact P/S in the $500 range. I'll be using the P/S for candids in medium light/low light so the most important features I'm looking for are an articulating LCD and fast lens. It should be reasonably compact but image quality is more important. Thanks for any suggestions.</p>

I got a GS-1 rotary finder without the manual and I can't figure out how it

works. I know S/A is spot/average. I'm not clear on how manual metering and

autoexposure work. Is it aperture or shutter priority? How does AE lock work?

Thanks.

I don't understand how manual metering works with the rotary finder. It shows shutter speed and some other numbers which I don't figure out. Can someone enlighten me?