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jwcounts

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Posts posted by jwcounts

  1. So a few days ago I was in Utah and my Nikkor 50 mm 1.2 lens fell into a creek.

    it was completely submerged and I guess it sat there for about a minute, and by

    the time I realized what happened there were two or three drops of water on the

    inside glass. over the next couple days the water condensed and made little

    droplets all over the inside surface. Now I am back home and the condensation

    is starting to clear up but the aperture blades don't seem to be working, i.e.

    it is stuck wide open. So what do I do? I have never had this happen. Is it a

    major problem or can it be easily cleaned/repaired? who should I send it to?

    what should something like that cost to fix? btw the water was very clear and

    free of sediment. any advice would be greatly appreciated.

  2. I think everyone is an artist. In order for something to be art, someone just needs to call it art. Any other definition seems arbitrary.

     

    The difference lies in the quality of the art- obviously some artists are better than others. Anyone who takes a snapshot of their kid is an artist, just not a very good one. Most of the time, good art requires some thought put into it.

     

    Fashion and advertising photography are definitely forms of art. But people don't always care about the "artistic" aspects of a shot (composition etc.) because they are simply trying to make an accurate recording of what something looks like.

  3. I've always wondered about this, and I've tried to test it but my

    results seem conflicting. When I have it set on A (auto exposure),

    the camera determines an exposure as I press the shutter based on

    the amount of light coming through the lens. Is this a one-time-

    only reading, or will the exposure change if lighting conditions

    change? Lets say, for example, that I turn off all the lights in

    room and fire the shutter. It doesn't detect a lot of light in the

    room so it wants to do a really long exposure. But if I turn the

    lights back on halfway through, will it continue to expose as though

    the room were still dark (leading to overexposure), or will it

    adjust the exposure to account for the brighter room?

     

    Speaking of long exposures in the dark, I do this a lot, and I

    usually stop down the lens to 8 or so and just use the auto function

    (the first six or so photos in my portfolio were taken this way).

    But, I've heard people say that this results in inaccurate

    exposures. I've never had a problem with it, but my best results

    come when I adjust it to +2. So sometimes the exposures last what

    seems like several minutes, though I've never timed them with a

    stopwatch. I guess my question is, is there an upper limit to how

    long the shutter will stay open when used in this manner, and do

    other people find this method to be inaccurate?

     

    Another thing, in the camera manual it says that a small amount of

    battery power is used even when the B setting is used. Why is

    this? I thought it was completely mechanical at manual settings.

     

    Thanks for any responses!

  4. Hi, I was wondering if anyone had advice on photographing

    seashells. I have access to a large collection, and some of them

    are very small and shiny. I would like to get some close ups and

    abstract the patterns on the surface of the shells, but some have

    interesting shapes I would like to photograph the entire object. So

    if anyone can point me to any examples of seashells being

    photographed in an artistic manner (most of the pictures I've found

    so far are very scientific in nature) I would very much appreciate

    it. Any advice on lighting (I've tried before but can't seem to get

    rid of specular reflections) and backgrounds would also be useful,

    or anything else I haven't thought about. FYI I'm using a Nikon

    FM3A and 55mm f/3.5 AI macro lens. I don't have bellows or

    extension tubes but am considering purchasing one.

    Thanks,

    -john

  5. I think photo.net should report not only the average of your

    ratings, but also the median (the number in the middle) and the mode

    (the most commonly occurring number). These would be less sensitive

    to aberrant rating and provide a better measure of what most people

    think about a picture. -john counts

  6. Hi. I have a 35mm roll of Kodak HIE infrared that needs

    developing. My problem is that I don't know how long to develop it

    for. I can't just follow the recommended times on the package

    because it was shot rated at ASA 200, metered through the lens, a

    red 25 filter and a polarizer, and this is not how I was supposed to

    rate it. Can anyone recommend a developing time/temp, preferably

    using D-76? I would like to salvage these pictures if possible.

    Most were outdoors, usually in bright sunlight, if that means

    anything. Thanks for any help, -john.

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