m_p7

I'm pretty sure <a href="http://www.nicholsphotolab.com/index.php?l=services&sl=personalization">my local pro lab</a> can do this. Check with your local large pro lab.

Re: #4. I read in a magazine (sorry can't remember which) at my local lab last week an article that said that Corbis requires releases for photos of hands, etc. Personally, I think this is extreme.

Another vote for SmartFTP if you want a GUI.

Pro lab: faster (probably 90min-3 hours), better, safer, not necessarily cheaper, but I only pay about $6.50 for mounted E6. I recommend building a relationship with a local pro lab.

Shots are from Muir Woods in California, BTW.

Well, I finally got around to processing that stuff, and after I thought about it and looked at the pinhole designer program (thanks for that, BTW), it looks like I was about 5-6 stops under. Here are the results, hopefully you can read the text in the shot; I had to keep the size down so the pic would display in the thread.<div></div>

Sorry it took so long to respond. I shot one roll of b&w and one roll of Provia 100F. Unfortunately, the developer I used for the b&w was crap and those shots were lost. Below is one of the shots from the Provia 100F. Thanks to the people that responded. For this particular shot, pointing my meter at the softbox from the subject position gave me a meter reading of f/11. I bracketed +0.5, +1.0, -0.5, -1.0 just in case. This is the -1.0 (f/16) shot. What John and Tom mentioned about the materials making a difference makes sense now that I have results and thought about it more. Since I was using slide film, I needed hedge toward underexposure to make sure the highlights weren't blown out (like they were in the other exposures). If I was shooting b&w again, I'd be more concerned about recording the shadows. Although it seems like if I metered the main light (softbox) that the highlights should have been ok at the metered setting. I'll have to think/practice/test some more.<div></div>

I should point out that there's a stop and a half difference between the two metering methods. I'll just shoot with both and see what turns out, but I'm curious what everyone says is the correct way.

I'm just trying out my new strobe/softbox. Say I've got the setup

described in this pic. How do I meter this accurately? It's a little

back lit, with a reflector kicking up some light to fill.<div></div>

<a href="http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com">Light Impressions</a>

Read <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Bxl0">this thread</a> from a few days ago.

Sorry about that. To login, you only need give an email address. I'd use a junk email, though, since you will be put on an email list. In a nutshell, the Spyder apparently performs very poorly on older monitors. Again, I have no experience with any of these products, and this is only one review of the Spyder. Just thought I'd point it out in the interest of thorough research.

Read this <a href="http://www.shootsmarter.com/infocenter/wc026a.htm">review by Will Crocket</a>. You might want to reconsider the Spyder stuff. I have no experience with any of the products, but I'm considering buying the Monaco Optix XR.

I shot a couple sheets of 4x5 Delta100 in a pinhole camera. Metering

gave me 8 minutes at f/256. I doubled that for reciprocity as a

guess, but after looking at the reciprocity chart, I realized that

I'm probably still several stops underexposed. Anyone have some

suggestions for getting the most speed and a useful negative from

this? I was leaning toward DDX for 30 minutes (from

digitaltruth.com's 2.5x factor for a 3 stop push with comp. dev.),

but I also have Xtol, Rodinal, HC110, Ilford HC, Tmax, and Microphen

developers handy. Any suggestions appreciated. I'm more interested in

film speed at the expense of grain if that helps, since I won't

enlarge this much at all. TIA -Mike

Try using a trial version of ACDSee.

Only B&H and Adorama get any business from me. If <a href="http://www.resellerratings.com/seller2684.html">this link</a> is talking about the same place, I wouldn't touch them with a 10 ft pole.

Best $ I ever spent - LASIK EYE SURGERY. I was about -8 or so, now I'm 20/20. Wore contacts for years. Make sure to see a good doctor, though.

If you are happy with your proofs, give them to the lab and tell them to match them as closely as possible.

There are a few pro labs in my area (SLC, UT). I had been using one for quite a while. After having to go back nearly every time to get my prints redone due to an error or dust/lint problems, one set of scratched negatives was the last straw. I haven't been back for months and I'm much happier. My new lab is great. Talk to some pros in the area and ask who they use. Could be as simple as calling some portrait or wedding photographers and asking. Don't accept mediocrity from your lab, especially if you are selling your stuff.

The previously mentioned poster at rangefinderforum also goes by the username "dieaxt" on photosig.com. You'll find even higher EI with Tri-X in his portfolio there.

Fill flash and put them in open shade if you can. If you shoot film, make sure you use a low-contrast film like Portra NC, NPS, etc.

Well, I scanned a whole roll later, with no glitches until the last frame. Just scanned that frame again without changing anything - just fine. I'm just crossing my fingers that it was a glitch of some sort. I've got 2 more rolls to scan tomorrow. If it persists, I'll either live with rescanning, or send it in, as I'd have no idea how to fix it. One more variable - I've been trying out the Vuescan demo. From what I can see, it is vastly superior to the Minolta software for B&W silver negs.

UPDATE: I was drawn 6th, so I got a Dell Dimension 4300 and the last 21" Trinitron (beige, unfortunately). I hooked up the monitor to my other machine, and it is working great. I sold the CPU on Ebay. Even after Paypal and Ebay fees, I ended up getting a slightly used 21" Trinitron for $40. The deal of the century. Thanks for everyone's responses.

One word: business.

 

Seriously, learning the business side of photography is as or more important than the technical side.

 

Do you plan on starting a business eventually? Maybe you could put together a business plan for your project.

Today I'm having sporadic problems with "Stuck" holders in my

Minolta DSE 5400. It sounds like the holder is hitting something.

I've looked inside, but can't find any obstructions. When it

happens, if I give it a gentle nudge, it usually gets "unstuck".

Here's an example. The problem is evident in repeating lines in the

scan where it scanned the same thing over and over. It usually

happens on frame 3-5 of the filmstrip holder. It isn't reproducible;

if I scan the same thing repeatedly, it doesn't always happen, and

not always the same amount. It never happens on prescan. Of course,

the unit is out of warranty. Anybody have this happen to them, and

hopefully have an explanation/solution? Many thanks in advance.<div></div>