jerry_plemons1

<p>I would like to purchae an additional film insert for my Mamiya 645 1000s medium format

camera. I noticed that a number of Mamiya 645 120 and 220 are available on the well-known auction

site. Is there any way to tell which insert can be used with the 1000s? For example. one of the

offerings on the auction site listed this item, Would it fit work in the 1000s?<br>

<strong>Mamiya 645

MF 120 Film Insert Medium Format 184723</strong></p>

<p>Thanks, Jerry<

<p>I copied the file to my Laptop computer's hard drive, an HP Pavilion dv9000, dual Core 1.65 Ghz. It has an GeoForce Go 7600 video card, NVIDIA control panel.<br>

What I discovered that after setting the VLC software properly, the video played pretty smoothly; however, it is a bit much for the limited processing speed and memory of my laptop. I have Dell Vostro desktop that plays the video very smoothly. So the laptop will do in a pinch, but the desktop makes it works really well.<br>

If I use an HDMI cord directly from the camera to my Panasonic Plasma HD TV with extra HDMI imputs, will the video look ok?<br>

Thanks, Jerry</p>

<p>I found the answer. The setting I needed to change was on the first page of the preferences - I didn't change the "Show Settings" to ALL. Once I changed the setting and reloaded VLC, the 7D video ran much scoother - even on my Vista-bound laptop.<br>

Jerry</p>

<p>Apparently, I'm not using the same one. I'm running Vista and I don't see anyplace to address the Other Codecs/FFmpeg issue. I also don't see anywhere else in the menu structure to set "Skip the loop filter for H.264 decoding" to ALL. I downloaded the latest version of VLC and still cannot find a place to set it up like Atkins and others recommend.<br>

Jerry</p>

<p>As noted in a few other notes, the video from the 7D can be jerky using Quicktime. I downloaded the VLC media player 0.9.2 Grishenko and tried to follow the steps detailed by Bob Atkins in his review:</p>

<ol>

<li>Open Tools, go to Preferences </li>

<li>Click Show settings = “All” </li>

<li>Go to “Input/Codecs </li>

<li>Go to “Other codecs/ FFmpeg” subcategory </li>

<li>Set “Skip the loop filter for H.264 decoding” to “ALL” </li>

<li>Restart the program </li>

</ol>

<p>My problem is that aftyer step 3, there is no "Other codecs/FFmpeg" subcategory listed. Any ideas as to what I am doing wrong?<br>

Thanks, Jerry</p>

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<p>I have a Leica IIIf RDST with what I think is a recent problem. I have prints I made when I first got the camera and lenses in 2003 and the images are much sharper than what I'm getting now. I scan the negatives on a Minolta Elite 5400 which does a nice job of all my negatives including ones from an EOS 3 and a Nikon F.<br>

I have four 50mm lenses that I've tried/tested and all seem to be producing really blurred images at f/2. By blurry, I mean objects at all distances are blurry, not just misaligned focus (I think), i.e., not focusing where the rangefinder says it is focusing. The rangefinder is nice and bright and the images snap into rangefinder focus very well. I had stopped shooting with the IIIf for a few years and just started again. I can't figure out what happened between 2003 and now. All of the lenses produce pretty sharp images starting around f/4 or 5.6. <br>

The lenses are: 50mm f2 Summitar, 50mm collapsible f2 Summicron, 50mm f1.5 Summarit, and a 50mm f1.5 Nokton. The Nokton produces a little sharper images than the others, but none are very sharp wide open. I tested these lenses at f/2 under two separate situations: 1) USAF test charts, 2) candid shots of various things and people. The USAF test chart was photographed using a heavy tripod. Shutter speed was a minimum of 1/100 or 1/200 on the non-test chart images. <br>

Even focused at objects like bare tree limbs a hundred yards away, the results seem blurred. Am I expecting too much of these vintage lenses? As I mentioned earlier, today's results don't compare well with images I shot a few years ago with the same camera and lenses.<br>

Would a good CLA help? I thought about just sending the camera and the Summicron to Sherry Krauter to see if there is something amis with the camera/lenses, but I thought I'd ask if there was a simpler solution. Maybe its just me getting old!<br>

Thanks in advance for your responses.<br>

Jerry</p>

 

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<p>My Lucky Day!. A fellow forum reader has offered a used GR-E1 to me for a very reasonable price. Thanks to all who contributed responses. Next time I'll be more careful with my on-line purchases. The camera works fine and is exactly what I was looking for. With the GR-E1, it will be perfect.</p>

<p>Mark,<br>

I don't understand how that would work. The GR-E1 or GR-E2 is the holder for the 2CR5 battery. The GR type grip covers the front part of the camera. The camera I have does not have that front cover that normally comes with the camera. The person I got the camera from said they bought the camera used and it came with just the booster attachment. I need the standard part that normally comes with the camera. So far, I have not been able to find a store that sells just that part.</p>

<p>Good grief! I only paid $100 for the EOS 3 body with the power booster attachment. Looks like I may be stuck with a handful of camera instead of what I had hoped for.<br>

Jerry</p>

<p>I was able to get a good EOS 3 body. It came with a power boost attachment that uses 8 AA batteries. It did not have the standard (GR-E1 or GR-E2) grip. I have looked everywhere I know to look to find and purchase one, but no luck.<br>

Can someone direct me to a source where I can buy a GR-E1 or GR-E2?<br>

Thanks in advance for your assistance.<br>

Jerry</p>

<p>I recently acquired a Canon EOS 3 body which came with a Power Boost grip - the kind that takes 8 AA batteries. While the grip is nice, I really need the standard grip that comes with the camera, the one that takes a single battery.<br>

What I need to know is - where can I buy/obtain one of these standard camera body grip/battery holder items?<br>

Thanks in advance for your help,<br>

Jerry</p>

 

<p>Excellent repair person. Stands behind her work. She takes care of my Leica equipment.</p>

<p>Thanks, all. I found a Canon EOS 3 on one of the "lists" and have purchased it. Anxiously awaiting its arrival to try out some of these neat features. If I ever get rich and famous, well at least rich, I plan on getting a 7D to replace my 10D and 20D. I like both digital and film. I just hope film is around long enough to really enjoy the EOS 3. My primary film is Tri-X with D76 1:1. My slower speed films include Plus-X and FP4 Plus. I have tried HP5+, Delta 400, and the T-Max emulsions, but prefer the look and feel of Tri-X. I've been using it since the early 1960's.</p>

<p>Thanks, guys. Your comments are exactly what I was hoping for. I've been shooting film with a Leica IIIf RDST and while it is fun to work with vintage equipment, it is a challenge to use for photographing our fast-moving grandson. I enjoy the craft of working with film, so one of the EOS bodies you mentioned will really go a long way towards capturing some neat images. Thanks again for your help.<br>

Jerry</p>

<p>I have a 10D & a 20D that I use for most of my photography; however, I enjoy shooting film too. Will my 20D lenses work on any EOS film bodies?<br>

If so, any recommendations for an inexpensive EOS AE & AF body?<br>

Thanks in advance for your help,<br>

Jerry</p>

<p>Thanks Eric and Evan. I had not been able to locate a source of Rodinal locally, so this is a plus for me. And even though Kodak is discontinuing some products, it looks like there are sauitable substitutes. Maybe I should put a few 100' rolls of Tri-X in the freezer, just in case.<br>

Jerry</p>

On a recent visit to my local camera store, one of the best in the area, I asked if they carried Rodinal. The answer

was no. I said that's ok, I'm mostly a D-76 guy anyway. The camera store guy said, "Well, D-76 is going away at

the end of the year. Kodak is phasing out that product". So I said, ok, ID-11 is almost the same. Then he said, "by

the way, Tri-X is also going away at the end of the year".

 

Is this guy feeding me a line or is there some basis for these comments?

 

Thanks,

 

Jerry

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<p>Unusual Texas Snow</p><div></div>

<p>I have recently acquired a Kowa Six which has a jammed winding mechanism. Actually, at this point, the winding knob turns freely. I have read that Ross Yerkes Camera Repair does a good job of repairing these animals. I'd like to have the camera repaired. Before I send the camera to Ross or someone else who does repair on Kowas, can anyone who has had this kind of repair done give me a ballpark cost figure?<br>

Thanks in advance for your response.<br>

Jerry</p>

<p>Thanks folks. As I suspected, the Hypo Remover should be a one-shot deal, just like my D-76 1:1. I reuse my Fixer, but test it frequently with Edwal Hypo Chek.</p>

<p>Well, using the Hyp Remover reduces the wash time - so the manufacturer claims. I've been useing this product (and I don't care for the name either) for a few years and have not noticed any degredation in my negatives. <br>

I guess the main reason for using it, in addition to the reduced wash time is that I don't have to worry about the negatives having a lot of residual Rapid Fix in them and causing problems later. Again, I'm making these assumptions based on what the manufacturer says.<br>

Jerry</p>