rahul_deshpande1
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Posts posted by rahul_deshpande1
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Try Full Spectrum Imaging in Plantation - Sunrise Blvd at Jacaranda plaza. Ask for Mick.
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Ok, in the interest of consistency, I can see why HC110 is a one shot developer. Can the pink cast on my negs be removed by a pre-soak? If yes, am I supposed to agitate during pre-soak? Should I make an adjustment to the development time?
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I'm processing MF Tri-X exposed at 320 in HC-110 dilution H. When I drain the
tank, the developer has turned a shade of pink. Now I know this is the anti-
halation layer coming off. But my question is, can I continue to use the same
developer for one more roll? Does the pink color mean in any way that the
developer has been exhausted?
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Do any of you know if the Rolleiflex 2.8f allows "in-between" apertures? I
mean, can I set the ring between 5.6 and 8 or between any 2 consecutive
apertures?
I have the same question about shutter speeds.
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Thanks for the responses, I AM looking to improve my processing skills. I know for a fact that the negs are overexposed since they are too dense to begin with. I am using a Canon P&S digicam to meter. Also, my scanner is not the best, I'm not using a film holder either.
P.S: The Marquee shot wasn't taken through glass.
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Your ending comments make a lot of sense. I went ahead and souped 2 rolls on 1 reel with the same dilution of HC110. No development problems, though the tape that connected the 2 rolls slipped midway and completely destroyed one frame which had the most "bang-on" exposure of the Manhattan bridge.
No more experiments :-(
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So assuming I'm able to get the 2 rolls on 1 reel, do I use the same dilution of chemistry or double?
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What are y'alls experiences with Arista.EDU? I processed the first 2
rolls of my life in HC 110 last night - HP5 and Arista.EDU 400, both
in 120. The HP5 came out fine, good density, no streaks, very little
curl etc.
However, the Arista.EDU came out with a greenish tint and lots of
curl. It is still a-curl between my prized versions of 2004 and 2005
yellow books. I think I developed for too long (7 mins) in Dil B.
Any thoughts?
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Wow, he looks exactly the way I'd imagined him...thick glasses and all! A couple of weeks ago, he CLA'd my 2.8f which was lying in a dark closet for about 35 years. I shot my first roll of TMax400 with it last weekend and it was smooth as butter. Krikor's got my vote!!
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What is a good way to expose TMax400? To explain what I mean to ask,
for example, a good way to expose Ilford XP-2 Super is to shoot it at
320 or even 200 for smooth grain etc.
Since I have just started to shoot TMax400 in 120, I want your
thoughts on how to expose this film. I'm looking for smooth grain with
crisp whites and good detail in the shadows.
Ditto for Tri-X in 120...I'm looking for good sharpness and medium grain.
Thanks.
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All of a sudden, my OM-1n film crank sticks on the return. I have to
manually take it back to starting position, while feeling a bit of
resistance. The film advances just fine.
Any thoughts on this?
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I just shot my first roll of TMax400 on a newly CLA'ed (Krimar)
Rolleiflex 2.8f. A focusing question - while shooting hand-held, is it
acceptable to focus with the magnifier and shoot while still looking
through it?
Or should I be checking the composition with the magnifier folded away
after focusing? I suspect when I pull my head up after focusing to
check composition, the focus distance may be changing.
How do you guys do it?
Help...
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Could you guys let me know what kind of quotes you got from these repair shops for a basic CLA, or CLA with additional work?
I'm about to ship my 2.8F to Krikor.
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Here's a shot of my 8 1/2 month old son with the 85/f2 on my OM1n.
Exposure is 1/60 @ wide open. Film is UC400. Pardon the scan, I just
used a cheap flatbed, no dust removal and no post processing.
Cheerio,
Rahul
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I have just acquired a Rollei 2.8f in reasonably good cosmetic
condition, but it probably requires a CLA...the focusing wheel is
not working and the shutter speed dial only operates in the green
zone. Is any catch or a button depress required to switch between
green and red (faster) shutter speeds?
Also, is there a way to resurrect the meter?
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Hello,
I've just been given (yes...GIVEN) a Rolleiflex 2.8F and I have a question about the shutter speed dial. It only moves in the green range, I don't want to force the dial into the faster speeds. What's the catch?
I'm sure I will have more questions as I learn.
Thanks,
Rahul
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Just to add to Richard's note...if you use the 675 hearing aid cell, you will need an O-ring #9 to hold it in place since the size of the cell is much smaller than the well. Its sold for about 30 cents a piece at Home Depot.
Good luck with this beauty...
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Is it true that a Noritsu machine prints on Kodak paper? I've heard
that shooting with Kodak color film and processing on a Noritsu will
give better prints than processing/printing Fuji film in that machine.
Is this true as well...assuming film is well exposed?
Thanks,
Rahul
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Hello Mark,
See if these photos give you any ideas, they are pictures of my then-pregnant wife. We are both Indian and believe it or not, I had my mother-in-law help me out! I also tried some shots with a fan to blow her hair from below, didn't work cause it was too small and only served to make ripples in the draped fabric.
She is wearing an "odhni" or "chunari" (ask your SIL what this is) draped over her left shoulder. The background is black acrylic felt from a local hobby store ($7 for 6' X 12'). The light is all natural coming from a side window, film is Ilford XP2, camera is OM-1n with 50/1.4 shot at f2.8/125.
Cheers,
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Folks,
I attended the Asheboro Vintage Airshow a couple weeks ago and apart
from the many pictures of the WW2 and pre-WW2 planes, I took this one
of a veteran airman, who told me he was a gunner and flew in a plane
similar to the one in the background.
Enjoy,
Rahul
Off camera ETTL cord
in Canon EOS Mount
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Has anyone used a Samigon ETTL Off-Camera Shoe Flash Extension Cord? What has
your degree of success been?
At 3 ft, its a foot longer than the proprietary version.