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carlos_rodriguez3

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Posts posted by carlos_rodriguez3

  1. <p>I hobbyst and recently my Epson 3170 broke down. The resuts from this partiuclar scanner were good and some times very good. I liked the fact it could scan Medium format<br>

    I found in Adorama the Epson 4490. Is this scanner equivalent in quality to my older 3170?<br>

    Or, any suggestion to whats the best film scanner (negatives, slides and medium format) there is under 200 USD?<br>

    Any suggestions</p>

    <p> </p>

  2. <p>Also, you must be aware there were many D70 with bad CF readers. They tended to have an annoying error causing memory corruption<br>

    I have used both cameras and unless you want to risk of a failing D70, choose the D50. My D70' went two times to Nikon service beacause a CF reader failure and a LCD failure.<br>

    I currently own a d40x, repaired and sold my d70, and bought a d50 as a backup at 220 USD.</p>

    <p> </p>

  3. <p>Bellows or extension tubes. To get a 2:1 with your lens you need at least 90mm of extensions. They are sold in sets of three measuring a total of 60mm. I have two sets, a total of 120mm of extensions.<br>

    But I use a sigma 60mm macro. I got pictures between 2:1 and 3:1<br>

    Extensions are very cheap, around 170 USD per set.<br>

    Kenko and Proptic have sets for NIkon:<br>

    <a href="http://www.adorama.com/KNAETSDNKAF.html">http://www.adorama.com/KNAETSDNKAF.html</a><br>

    Here are samples of what I have done:<br>

    <a href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=683828">http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=683828</a><br>

    I used a Nikon D70 and D40x, sigma 60mm 2.8 macro, three flashes (one on top, one on the side from below and and a optional third flash from the other side)<br>

    With a 60mm lens you will need to get from 3 to 20mm close to your subject. With your actual lens there is more distance, but you need more extensions tubes to get the same magnification.<br>

    I hope this helps.</p>

    <p> </p><div>00TtYl-153029584.jpg.93f2c37d7eda19303cb71da4356cab42.jpg</div>

  4. <p>Martyr:<br>

    I must say it is an interesting philosophy. However I need to comment two things:<br>

    First of all, there is no such thing as absolute non-interferral interaction between photographer and subject. You may be aware of the quantum theory of observer interference with a system. Many anthropologist agree that human interaction is very similar. For example: there is no way you can document an isolated brazilian tribe WITHOUT altering the system.<br>

    If I misunderstood you, and you meant to say "to minimize" the influence of photographer in the subject, then I have a different comment:<br>

    Being farther away from your subjects would minimize influences and minimize interruptions of the moment. That means extensive use of large and extremely large telephotos. Sort of wild animal phtography: you dont want to disturb any animal because it can get scared and flee.<br>

    But you adhere to a maximum of 300mm, and that is very odd to me.<br>

    Candid photography depends heavyly on the anonimity a telephoto gives.<br>

    Having said this, over all, I hope your philosophy makes you happy as an artist or a hobbyist.</p>

    <p>Good luck<br>

    Carlos Rodriguez</p>

    <p> </p>

  5. <p>1 - I would also like a separate rating system: one for anonymous users, one for members:<br>

    2 - Also, I would like to be able to sort a particular photographer pictures (mine and specially from others) according to rating: This way we could see which ones have the highest ratings<br>

    3 - A way to change the font. I have a low vision problem and the strandard font from Photo.net is harder to see than the ones in other sites. I constantly use a screen magnifyer.</p>

    <p> </p>

  6. <p>I purchased a Nikon D50 for 216 dollars in Adorama two months ago. Since then, just two SLR below 220 dollars have appeared in KEH or Adorama, a D50 for 220 and last week a D70 for 210 in KEH. In this statitistic I am not conidering the D1, because is just too old for anybody<br>

    I have monitored both sites for a year and just three cameras of this kind for this price.<br>

    Do you want to know whats the average inventory time (from arrival to selling) for this cameras? Less than a week. I check this sites almost every day and this cameras are flying!!<br>

    For anybody hunting for rebates like this: visit this sites and purchase fast because many people is acquiring this things</p>

    <p> </p>

  7. <p>To David Carroll<br>

    He wrote: "I would have given my left nut to have one of these"<br>

    No need for that LOL, just give money!<br>

    To Wayne:<br>

    Excellent acquisition. I learned photography in a F2 25th anniversary edition. I still have this jewel in my collection</p>

     

  8. <p>I recently found the following lens:<br>

    <!--

    <td width="280" >28-105 F2.8 TAMRON ASPHERICAL D INTERNAL FOCUS LD SP SUPER (82) (276D) WITH CAPS 35MM SLR AUTO FOCUS ZOOM WIDE ANGLE LENS--> 28-105 F2.8 TAMRON ASPHERICAL D INTERNAL FOCUS LD SP SUPER (82)<br>

    First question: is it good? The lens is in BGN condition, and I just want a fast lens (2.8) with a limited budjet below 300 dolars. I am a hobbist and woud like the flexibility of a fast lens.<br>

    Second question: Will it AF in a Nikon D50? I also have a D40x and know it will not AF in this lens.</p>

    <p> </p>

  9. <p>I a hobbyst photographer and I ve been a member of this site for 6 years. There has been periods of time where my prodcution has been abundant and reasonably good.<br>

    But right know, I dont have any new ideas, any nye perspective, any interesting theme. I try to force me to get picture of family and continuing to take familiy and events pictures. Family and events are my low boottom. I know I will alwas rely on this subjects to take some pictures at some days.<br>

    But besides of that, what else?. I dont know if I am in loa depressing spiral of uncreativity. Also, I dont know if it is common, but I dont really feel motivated to take other kind of pictures.<br>

    I almost sure this is something non eternal.<br>

    So I ask, What do you do whenever you hit a low in creativity and inspiration? Read some bookds, see a movie, tkae a vacation from you cameras? What gives you inspiration, how do you get out of this sleppy state of photographic depression?<br>

    Does somebody has had some similar experience before? Please, share with us.<br>

    Trying to overcome this low period I have been reading Forums from photo.net all days. Also, I have been reviewing other people picttures and placing comments. I have been doing this for more than a year without exception: all days. I also read Photography magazines, see movies a lot, etc.<br>

    Thanks so much<br>

    Carlos Rodriguez</p>

    <p> </p>

  10. <p><!--

    <td width="280" >18-50 F2.8 SIGMA DC D EX MACRO (72)(APS-C) WITH HOOD, CAPS, DIGITAL SLR ZOOM SUPER WIDE ANGLE LENS--><br>

    First question:<br>

    Which one will have better optics?:<br>

    Sigma 18-50 F2.8 DC D EX MACRO<br>

    Tamron 17-50 f2.8 Xr Di-ii<br>

    Second question:<br>

    Will they work AF in a Nikon D40x?</p>

  11. <p>I agree with bob: put your flash between 1-1.7 stops down. Also use any flash mounting diffuser lke Lumiquest. They are specially effectiv at close distance (1-3 meters)<br>

    Whenever possible, use ceiling as a diffuser. Just put your flash vertical and normal TTL setting (not steps down) to get soft lighning on your subjects<br>

    Check out the following example. I used Nikon d40x with SB600. Exposure -0.3, flash 0.0</p>

    <div>00TRv4-137337584.jpg.4fa8ffce2c5fc024961b51cc8366cd58.jpg</div>

  12. <p>You should consider cultural and regional conditions. Depending on the country and the group you should decide between not taking at all, ask for permission or take a discret picture.<br>

    There are many ways to take a picture of somebody without asking for permission. I am always very worried about taking pictures and somebody geting angry, so I am very careful.<br>

    To take this kind of picture use a telephoto: is easier to shoot people discretly at a distance. Salesman are easier to take because they want to sell something. Just approach the guy and ask for permission. In some tourist regions like Youcatan (Mexico), Oaxaca, they are very used to this. Some will tell you no to take a picture, be polite and dont take it.<br>

    I live in Mexico, so I am used to take pictures of different culture groups in traditional clothing. Some of them are very sensitive, so you must decide between not taking the picture or be discreet with a telephoto. I have done this many times. Sometimes, whtn you ask permission for a portrait, they will ask for money . And very often it is a good trade.Some cultural groups in Chiapas have a ban on photographs in their towns like Tzotzil and are very strict on this.<br>

    Be careful with pictures of kids, parents could be very sesnitive and paranoid. They are excellent subjects, but just be careful.<br>

    One trick I use is to take many pictures of the surroundings. Lots and lots, direc t the lens behind the subject you intend to take, focus first behind them, and then focus on them and take the picture and continue to take pictures in other direction. They cant know waht you are focusing. They will not notice antyghing. Remember your are taking "landscapes" and "architecture". I read this trick in some good Kodak travel book<br>

    Any one has the right to tell you no to take a pictrue, but if you are polite and decide wisely you will not have a problem.<br>

    Best regards<br>

    Carlos Rodriguez</p>

  13. <p>Mendel:<br>

    CKRename was just the software I needed.<br>

    The problem with Bridge is that it just adds extension. So you cnat convert from DSC_0021:NEF to 50_00021.NEF. For that, you need string substitution and Bridge cant do it.<br>

    But CKRename does it. Very nice and practical sofware.<br>

    Thanks so much</p>

     

  14. <p>I normally use Fireworks CS3 to convert JPG files to my standart names. But whenever I try to process in Barch the NEF files (Nikon D50) the software send me to "process open files" and nothing happens<br>

    What should I use Photoshop? Bridge? I had some trouble running Photoshop batch processes in the past. It doesnt resembe the Fireworks tool. How can I change a DSC_0021:NEF to 50_00021.NEF<br>

    Shoule I use a different software?<br>

    Thanks for your help<br>

    Carlos</p>

    <p> </p>

  15. <p>They all have slaves and will fire with just one alien bees in sync to your hotshoe with a cable or a trasmitter, but...<br>

    Whatever you do, dont buy the JTL 160 monolights. They have problems with grounding and can be very dangerous. Mine trasmitted 120 volts to the camera and I received an electro shock from it. Other people have similar experiences. Check out the reviews. There are three bad reviews with electrical problems in Adorama.<br>

    Buy just AlienBees or change the JTl FOR TOHER BRAND</p>

  16. <p>Sunil:<br>

    I have used 300 ws at many portraits: from 1 to 5, head, head and shoulder, half body and full body. Apertures will range from 5.8 to 11 depending on distance (to your subjects)and your light may range from 1/8 (head shots) to 1/2 for goups shots. ISO 200 in all of them.<br>

    250ws wil be enought for half body shots and head shots, but maybe you will need more power for larger groups. Of course, if you are comfortable rising your ISO to 400 or 800, you can compensate the lack of light. You will get more grain, but it can be done.<br>

    I am using umbrellad, and I believe Soft boxes diminishes output power for your subject, so be aware of this. I am not sure how much ligh you lose but it maybe 1 to 2 stops.<br>

    Hope this helps</p>

    <p> </p>

  17. <p>Because of this forum I know Alien Bees are the best option for a limited budget. But the problem is that they only sell by phone to international orders.<br>

    I like simplicity and my english sucks. I always have suded BH and Adorama for international orders to Mexico. They have reasonable shipping rates.<br>

    So, whats the best system (best value) selling in Adorama? Flashpoint, Dynalite, etc?<br>

    I already have two Savage 300 w monolights and three budget adorama 100w monlights. They work fine but the Savage needed some repairs already. I would like to buy some more power (monolights and powerpacks) and a portable system in the future, and would like some recommendations. Keep in mind I would prefer something Adorama or BH sells.</p>

    <p>Carlos Rodriguez</p>

    <p> </p>

  18. <p>Somebody posted this in the Canon forum:<br>

    "Canon is pushing the lower end market. Better they should fix the autofocus issues with the 1DMkIII and 1DsMkIII for the top end cameras. They are losing market to Nikon because of the problems that have effected some of these top cameras. Some are fine and some just won't autofocus consistently and here they are playing with more new low end cameras. I guess they know where the money is and who matters to them"<br>

    So, even the Canon followers admit Nikon is gaining ground in the SLR market. This particular new model, Canon 500D, seems very similar to Nikon D90, but is 200 dollars cheaper (799). So, are we expecting to obtain inferior peerfomance from this Canon camera? I do think so, at least in high ISO.<br>

    Canon still seems to bet in more pixels instead of better perfonmance at high ISO<br>

    For anybody who missed this article, here it is:<br>

    <a href="http://www.paragnossia.com/Technology/Photography/General/canon_losses_slr.html">Canon losses market share to Nikon</a><br>

    What do you think on this Canon model, will it match the Nikon D90 or not?<br>

    Carlos Rodriguez</p>

    <p> </p>

  19. <p>Hansel is right.<br>

    I have a Nikon D40x and a P5000. The P5000 is my backup. Just put the flash in "off" and the camera in M and you can fire trhe strobes. You will have no problems with this.<br>

    Another alternative is to put the strobes at maximun power or near maximum power. Then adjust your aperture in the camera, and the light from the internal flash would be relatively minimal. Is not perfect, but in an emergency , it can work.</p>

    <p> </p>

  20. <p>I am relativaly new to converting NEF files, but not to photoshop. So, my question is which values should I changein Adobe Camera RAW and which should I left alone and process directly in PS CS3. I know if you process curves and white balance in ACR is better. But what about the rest of the values:<br>

    1.- Saturation<br>

    2.- Sharpness<br>

    3.- Noise controls<br>

    I ask this, because I read in a different thread that is recomendable to process sharpness AFTER NEF conversion. Is this true? It was an old thread (2005)<br>

    So, what do you normally do? Do you process most of this values in NEF conversion, or directly in PS?<br>

    I did some test to process noise created by ISO 800 (d40x) and the results were excellent compared to what I can get in PS. And over all I like the idea of "not loosing" information in this procedure.<br>

    Carlos</p>

    <p> </p>

  21. <p>Brian Lee is right:<br>

    Dont buy the Nikon D70. Mine went to service repair two times in 3 years. It had LCD problem and the famous BGLOAD and CHA errors. The memory card went crazy at times. The problem was that some Nikon D70 had a problematic card reader. So, if you buy one, you cant know for sure if it has this kind of card reader</p>

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