lucid image

This may be a very basic question, but I am still not completely

grasping it. I have a Canon 430EZ with a guide number between 75 and

129 feet (depending on zoom position) and a Pentax 280t (w/

stroboframe bracket), with a guide number of 91ft. I own a lumiquest

ultrasoft for the 430EZ and a diffusion cap for the 280T. Both

accessories state that there will be a 2 1/3 stop loss on light

output. What does this mean?? If I set my camera to the ambient

reading (from handheld or camera meter), how would this coincide with

the flash setting (on 430EZ) and what sort of distance would be lost,

in both cases, in a portrait setting????

A little confused, Sean

I will be using 400iso film, so I would be assuming an aperture between 2.8-8 to get required shuuter. Any feelings on aperture normally used??

Thanks, Sean

I really don't know which forum is best for this question, but

here it goes. I am about to do my first aerial shoot from a single

passenger cesna, at low altitude and wondered if anyone could give me

any pointers on success. I will be using a manual lens on my Pentax

645, to retain image for enlargements required and I will be shooting

colour negative film.

Thanks in advance!! Sean

I don't know why, but I am having trouble grasping the basic

principle of manual flash. I have a pentax 280T on stroboframe with

pentax 645 body. The flash and the body are compatible for ttl

autoflash, but I like to have control over the aperture. The 280t is

a manual flash (distance and lens aperture is the only control over

flash intensity). I have been metering ambient either with camera or

handheld meter and then setting the apropriate aperture I require for

subject DOF. My question is why does the 645 kick the shutter to 60

automatically. Interior that is fine, because to drag the shutter,

my aperture is usually under that anyway, but if I am outside shutter

speed is usually higher and I cannot get by the lock of 60. I

thought the 645 (and most medium format) allowed for shutter sync up

to 250 or 500. How does one use flash and get reduced dof in this

situation outside??? Also as a final question, for situations with

little to no ambient light, would you suggest just using the ttl or

going manual?? I, as you can tell am a little confused, although I

am sure that flash is not as complicated as my frustrated mind makes

it out to be!!!! Please HELP!

Thanks, Sean

I have been in the business for a short while now and am still

shooting analog film. One question I have been getting more oft than

not in my wedding meetings and at the one bridal show I have done is

do I sell or retain negatives. My resounding answer has been no and

than I go into the spiel about copyright, blah, blah, blah. Recently

I had a meeting and the client told me that out of the 6

photographers they had met with, 2 did and 4 didn't (digital

photographers gave high-res discs). My question is should I be

looking at selling my negs, with a list of established developers for

enlargements(less work, less time, less money), and if so for how

much, or should I be developing my album sales (extra work, extra

time, potentially more money). I just want to see what is the market

standard and get some feelings.

Thanks, Sean

I have two multiblitz lights, one a 200 mini, one a proflite 200

with built in slave, but I have no manuals and cant seem to get the

information I need. I have one main question, does the 200 indicate

the flash power, and if so, how close to subject should I place the

lights for single subjects and will it push enough power for a group

for environmental fill? The back of these units only has full/half

power options, so I am assuming the 2/1 ratio is the only option,

correct. Hope this all doesn't sound too trivial and thanks in

advance for any help!!

Sean

My question is to do with the portrait client meeting. What are

some questions that those with years of portrait experience ask? Do

you take the time to travel to their home, or insist on meeting at

your location (in my case, my home)? Also, how do you address the

increased cost over budget photo operations? Thanks in advance.

Sean

I have had my website up and running for 5 months now and have got

good response. I just noticed other critique requests and thought I

would just ask out of curiosity how the members Photo.net feel. I

have to say that this forum has been a true blessing to developing my

skills and business.......thanks again!!

www.lucidmusings.com

Sean

Just about whether or not slide film can be both multiple

exposed and crossprocessed at the same time. If I was to use 50 iso

slide film, rate it at 160, take three multiple exposures and then

have it crossprocessed in C41 chemicals, would this give desirable

results, or is it too stressing on the negative. I know I should

experiment to find my own results, but I have a band shoot tomorrow

and thought that this may make for an interesting effect, so any

people with previous experience would clear things up a bit at the

eleventh hour.

Thanks, Sean

Probably a silly question, but I am just questioning myself on

what exactly constitutes push and pull processing. If I have, say

400iso film and rate it at 800 and process it as such, does that mean

it is pushed one stop. If you take 3200 film and rate it at 800,

process it as such, does that mean it is pulled 2 stops. I know this

is a beginner question, but if someone can just confirm this concept

and how it works, I would finally have piece of mind.

Thanks, Sean

Maybe I am a little too detailed in my question. I am basically asking if there is any formula on markup when it comes to albums?

Thanks again, Sean

I am debating on purchasing a 150mm 3.5 for my portrait uses, but

have also come across a 135mm 1.4 on EBay. I did a Google search to

get some details on this lense and got skunked. I have two

questions, first does this beast actually exist and what are your

feelings and secondly am I right in thinking the faster 135mm would

be superior for my needs than the 150mm.

Thanks in advance!! Sean

I am in the process of doing a pricing brochure to bring my

enlargements and albums together as a one price item. I have priced

according to size and in turn number of prints. For an example, the

price of my 40 page "house" album. The album consists of 60

enlargements of various sizes (maximum 30 10X10), with 31/2X5, 4X6

and 5X5 (5X7) filling out the album. My average per page cost

(including page, top mounting material, protective coating, and

enlargement) is approximately $12.00 (Canadian), while the album is

$97.75. My cost, therefore calculates to $577.75, before I include

my time. I have calculated a markup and time expense and am selling

it at $1149.00. I feel I am getting much better at understanding the

world of pricing and am miles ahead of where I was just two months

ago, but I am always wanting to make sure that my estimate is in

keeping with market value and that the profit margin is where it

should be. Just curious how others go about the album issue.

Thanks, Sean

My question is about the intitial meeting with a potential

client..the BIG SELL meeting. I have been fairly successful in my

method of first asking questions regarding the wedding itself....how

many people, where is it, time of ceremony, length of coverage

required, etc., etc. I then launch into my sales pitch to try and

convince the client that I am the photographer they want by trying to

show my personality and edge, while all along keeping an air of

sincerity and interest in THEIR wedding. I have had 3 meetings in the

last 2 months and have booked 2 weddings....pretty good average, but

will it hold?? There in lies my question..what is the right way to

approach the initial sales meeting?? Those out there with

experience, what are some secrets?? I know you may say that my ship

isn't sinking, so keep its course, but I just want to hear what

everyone else thinks about this subject.

Thanks in advance!! Sean

I have been slowly getting into the business for the last year,

with my work being primarily portrait and weddings. I have come to

like using Kodak tmax 100 and 400 plus Ilford 3200 for my black and

white and have fallen in love with the Kodak UC 400 for almost all of

my colour work. My question is about using slide (transparency)

films. Does anyone use them and what is the practicality of using

them if the end result is proof prints. I have used slide (provia)

for my travel work and was consistently impressed with the colour

saturation, I am just a little confused on whether or not I should be

considering it for my portrait work also. Suggestions please!!!

Thanks, Sean

yes, the lens is for my pentax 645 medium format. Sorry for the confusion!

Sean

Searching for a fast 85mm lens for my portrait needs. I am

using an old pentax 645 manual focus. Please, if anyone can set me

in the right direction, it would be much appreciated.

Yours, Sean

My question is about the importance of becoming affiliated with

provincial and national photo organizations P.P.O. and P.P.O.C.

respectively. I have been in the throws of getting my business

rolling. The last 6 months have been spent advertising,

broadcasting, and building my refferal system, all the while reading

and developing my technical skills and bringing my equipment up to

professional standard. I am still working a full time resturant job

to pay for these costs and living costs, but have started to get some

portrait, wedding and corporate work. I am now looking at the option

of getting my vendors permit and joining the above organizations.

This will inevitably cut into my budget for advertising and new

equipment (I still need to get a faster lens and I would like to run

a weekly in my local newspaper for my portrait business). I am not

in anyway questioning the validity of these organizations, I am just

asking if this is something I should be a part of at this early stage

or should my money be spent on getting my business to the next level

by standard advertising methods and better equipment?? Any thoughts??

Looking into the option of hand-held flash with Canon Rebel G.

I own a canon 430EZ Flash and would like to have the option to move

it around when shooting. Also, does Stroboframe or anyone else

manufacture a bracket for these. Thanks in advance!!

Sean

I have recently bought myself a manual focus Pentax 645 as a

step up for my portrait and formal shots. I am new in the business

and have been slowly acquiring equipment for my business as money

allows. I still shoot 35mm, but was looking at acquiring the

essentials for my Pentax 645 in regards to my formal portrait shoots.

As far as hardware, I have a 50mm 2.8 lens, a 80-130 4.0 lens, a AF

280T Flash, a multiblitz profilite 200 and a multiblitz mini 200,

with stands, umbrellas, etc. I was just curious on any other

recommendations on what I should be purchasing to improve my overall

ability to shoot portrait work.

I have purchased a multiblitz 200 mini and a mutiblitz profilite

200. I had no manuals with the purchase and have tried both the

multiblitz site and searches on google to get any tips, ticks, etc.

I have found very little and thought I would just write to find out

if anyone has had experience with these lights and may have some

insight, or information that might be useful to a person new into the

world of studio lighting.

Thanks, Sean

I have been borrowing an Omega B22 enlarger, timer along with the

basic hardware (trays, thermometer, tongs, beakers) from my local

school and now am at the stage that I either buy or return the

equipment. Obviously favoring the former, I was curious on the

value. I have no idea and would like to make a fair offer to the

owner. Please Help!! Thanks, Sean