arjen van de merwe

<p>My new camera (Nikon D7000) has a built in star burst effect (under the name cross screen) I dont like to retouch images in camera. I have seen methods to add a star burst one by one, but is there an automated plug in available? It would probably need raw files, so it would most likely be for Lightroom, rather than photoshop.</p>

<p>I'll try all of that, thank you.</p>

<p>If I understand you right, you did not get me right: the times are actually correct (judging from the content of the photo) but the numbers are not in order</p>

<p>I'll be clearer: the D300 produced files named: _DSC0000 with 0000 being the file number. The D40 created files named DSC_0000. I put all files in one folder, which is not so good in retrospect, I'll put them in separate folders from now on. The numbers of the D300 are fine. But the numbers of the D40 are not in chronological order, they skip back and forth in time.<br>

DSC_91 was made at 9:50:27<br>

DSC_92 was made at 16:48:03<br>

DSC_93 was made at 16:48:07<br>

DSC_94 was made at 9:57:33<br>

This skipping happens several times in the whole process.</p>

 

<p>I photographed an event on a Nikon D300, my assistant worked with a Nikon D40. I put everything in a folder, on two different drives (one master, one backup). On both the numbers of the D40 are not chronological. Fi DSC_91 is early, the DSC_92 was later, and then DSC_93 was early again following DSC_91. Many instances like this, I never had this before. How can this happen and how can I prevent it from happening again? This is inconvenient!</p>

<p>All this is good advice, but all are forgetting the most important thing in portraits: work with your sitter/model. Get ideas, get creative, come up with interesting concepts. Bring out personality, beauty, emotion, or anything else you have to say about the sitter/model. That's where the great portraitists (photographic or otherwise) stand out from the crowd.</p>

<p>Thank you all guys. Sorry for causing a bit of trouble here, the local repair man repaired my radio trigger for the sum of 6 dollars (plus two dollars spare part)</p>

<p>Thank you all.<br>

The point is: my radio triggers broke down. I live in Malawi, and in the whole country there is no shop carrying this type of equipment. I have to wait for a friend to bring the new triggers from South Africa, but in the mean time I want to work with the flash. I worked with one flash with softbox, triggered optically with a hot shoe flash. While this works OK the possibilities are limited compared to the three flash set up that I often use. The best option for now seems to be using the cable that was supplied with the flash until I get the new equipment.</p>

<p>I do not have a volt meter. Is there no other way to find the specs?</p>

<p>I heard about some flashes using to high a voltage to trigger the flash for the safety of digital cameras cirtcuits. I want to connect a Multiblitz 200 ws monoblock to the Nikon D300. Could I safely do this with a cable? ( I want to combine with Nikon CLS so optical trigger is not possible)</p>

<p>Thank you</p>

<p>I am colouring drawings in ps. I save them in layers in tiff, but I want a smaller version to work faster with the lay out. I used to save this type of work in gif, but png seems to be taking over form gif. Does anyone know the advantages and disadvantages of png over gif, for this type of work? There are some gradients involved, which may present banding in gif. Does png prevent that problem?</p>

<p>thanx patrick, ill try that.</p>

<p>I used to use cactus triggers but they gave up, and they misfired occasionally. Now I want to get new ones. I live in malawi, where there is no shop that carries triggers, so I need to ask a friend to bring them from South Africa. I dont need fancy stuff, but I do need reliable radio triggers. I use them indoors in a small studio and at weddings in the church or some other place, and occasionally outdoors. Can anybody recommend a type?</p>

<p>When I use the patch tool to remove an unwanted object at the side of the image, I often get colour shifts. Sometimes darker, sometimes lighter, sometimes the colour of the object. How can I prevent this?</p>

<p>Thank you Adeboye, I'll do that</p>

<p>I have been asked to provide still photos for use in a government sponsored video to promote tourism. I do not know how to price. Does anybody have guidelines for this?</p>

<p>Thank you, Starvy, this makes it a lot clearer.<br>

Thank you, Landrum, this helps.</p>

<p>Thank you Starvy. I can try to find similar examples, by talking to experienced collegues here. It seems outrage by readers about a photo is quite rare in Malawi. Legal situations do from time to time occur.</p>

<p>Thank you Starvy. Unfortunately I do not understand anything of your post. How does the categorical imperative apply to photojournalism?</p>

<p>Reading up on the ethics of photojournalism I found six basic ethical theories that apply:<br>

Categorical imperative<br>

Utilitarianism<br>

Hedonism<br>

Golden mean<br>

Golden rule<br>

Veil of ignorance</p>

<p>Four I can understand.(Utilitarianism, Hedonism, Golden mean, Golden Rule)<br>

I get stuck with the Categorical imperative (Immanuel Kant) and how it differs from the Golden Rule (do unto others as thou would want them to do unto thyself).<br>

Also the veil of ignorance gives me a problem: I do not understand how it is more than an underlying principle that should be applied to any other theories used.<br>

Can someone explain (one of) these questons to me? Thank you very much.</p>

<p>Teaching photojournalism, I am looking for an article (preferably rather long) that covers an ontroduction to the ethics of photojournalism, with theory and practical examples. Googling I found:<br>

Photojournalism, an ethical approach by Paul Lester.<br>

He has a few good points, but I find it a bit lacking in theory. His practical examples are all from the US, and I am teaching in Malawi, Africa. Does anyone know of a good web article in this area?</p>

<p>I love crazy looks. Some X process photos look great, but mine don't. What, in your opinion, does a photo need in style and technical approach to make X-process look good, as opposed to regular development? (This example is the photoshop filter for X process)<br>

http://s51.photobucket.com/albums/f378/arjenvdm/?action=view&current=_DSC4693-X.jpg<br>

http://www.photosig.com/go/photos/view?id=2490801</p>

<p>I dont believe this. So many people taking this person serious. With this Zeltsman so hung up on little rules, it's no wonder he brings ou the dork in his subjects. With the general public much more visually literate then in the time he was operating, I doubt if this will bring in a good income, let alone artistic satisfaction. And besides: his exposure concept is totally wrong: varying the key light to go from hi-key to lo-key, and not adjusting his aperture. He is relying on the exposure latitude of negative film, which degrades his image quality. And with transparency he'd have a hard time. With digital this goes totally of the mark. Never varying his aperture means he understands nothig of depth of field, which can be an important tool for the portrait photographer.<br>

What I find strange is: his work was mediocre at best, yet he staid in business for a long time aparently. Staying in business means there was something he was doing right, and since it was not his photography, it was probably his sense of business. There he could teach many of us (including me) a lot of meaningful things, there.</p>

<p>I'm used to looking for good lighting direction, which means getting up early for outdoor work. But here it is rainy season and that means a lot of overcast weather. I work a lot for a tourism magazine (www.bemyguestmagazine.com) and I have to make things look like you want to go there. I am looking at National Geographic photos. These man and women seem to be able to use any type of light effectively. Any other suggestions on how to make overcast light look attractive?</p>