mark_warren1

I have a 124 G which I've used during the last 3 years and never had a problem. That camera is way over priced.

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<a href=http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=30037&item=7505487353&rd=1>This is what you should be paying</a>

I think the migration to MF from 35mm is rather natural. The dropping prices coupled with ebay make that decision a lot easier. I bought a Yashicamat 2 years ago, followed by a Bronica SQ-a kit and last month finally got the Mamiya 6 I originally wanted 2 years ago, but at a lot less cost. All were bought on ebay and all are in great shape.

As far as labs go, in San Francisco I can think of at least 4 pro labs who are still busy processing film...not to mention a city funded/run darkroom with 40 enlargers.

Only my music is digital.

As someone who recently just bought a M6, I'd prefer to see it with one lens and the others separately. But if you do sell it all together, don't start the price at something absurd like $2,200. No one wants to start bidding that high, even though that is what its worth.

A M6 with the standard lens is about $1200-1400, the 150 lens I just bought for $300, the 50 seem to go sell for $650 and beyond.

I've had an SQ-A for about 2 years and enjoy it. I don't have the speed grip, so hand held

photos are rather awkward. But if you don't mind lugging a tripod everywhere, it's a great

kit. Lenses are getting dirt cheap. Durable camera.

Try <a href=http://www.editplus.com/>edit plus</a>. It's basically freeware, after the 30 day trial, you can still continue using it.

You'll need to pick up some basic html, but webmonkey is a good place to start. And you can always view source code of other sites you like.

It doesn't take much to build a site. It <b>does</b> take effort to build a site worth a damn, and that has nothing to do with writing code. Understanding how to layout a well designed website, just like framing a photo properly, takes knowledge. And that is the difference between a good site and a crappy one.

I just got my first Mamiya 6 this week. I've been using a Bronica SQ-A, and while I like it, the 6 was the camera I wanted two years ago but bought the SQ-A instead.

Buy what you want.

I year ago I went through Heathrow returning to the states.

I had a bunch of film in a clear bag with some 3200 thrown in just as an excuse to get hand inspections. I told the person I wanted the whole bag of film to avoid the x-ray machine. She called an supervisor and explained it to him. He said, take out the 3200 and the rest goes in the machine. They were civil and quick.

When I was in junior high school, I lent my friend my bicycle, one that I had put a lot of work and money into. It came back with a bent rim. I also lent him my skateboard, it came back with no ball-bearings in one wheel.

I learned my lesson a long time ago. I don't let anything I value be loaned, rented or borrowed. I don't even like people holding my cameras, just to check it out.

I just purchased a Mamiya 6 and have a general question.

After I press the shutter release and I hear the shutter open and

close, about 1 second later, there is a second metallic click/sound

coming from the right hand side of the camera. I know that is where

the emergency release button is, but is this normal? If so, what is

that?

<i>I see people paying $300 for equipment that is atleast 30 years old and looks like

crap</i>

<br><br>Have you seen the results of that crappy looking MF gear? Bigger negs give

better prints. <br><br>Technological advancements don't gurantee better photos. They

are distractions. I doubt any technologically advanced piece of 35mm gear made today

would last 30 years, nor produce results anywhere near what you get from MF gear.

<br><br>Simplicity is it's own art form.

<i>I'm shure that many blind people take better pictures then most members of photo.net, myself included...</i>

<br><Br>How would they know their photo is good? <br><Br>I can understand blind people working with clay or sculpting, but blind photography? Redefines the phrase; point and shoot, I guess.

<i>Better to be a semi-starving, working stiff then a staving 'maybe' photographer!</i>

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Don't take the CPA exam...trust me. Being a <b>miserable</b> working stiff, regardless of pay, strips the soul bare of all things artistic.

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Pursue your passion. Don't worry about your age, you've got more wisdom and life experience than anyone coming right out of school. That is an advantage.

I have used Kodak VS and Kodak EPT 160 with great results, exposures of around 12 minutes.

I do most of my night shooting in rural settings under the full moon, so I don't bother with Velvia (50). You need an exposure time of 20 minutes or so at F8.

Forget reciprocity...think about how much time you want to stand around in the dark for each exposure.

In SF I use <a href="http://www.oscarsphotolab.com/">Oscars Lab</a><Br><Br>

$10 gets you a 60mg scan, minimum of 5 scans at one time.

Fuji NPS 160.

Fine grain, good color. I've done expsoures of 12 minutes and don't worry about reciprocity.

<i>...get headaches from the cheap wine</i>

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Headaches from expensive wines feel the same....

In February I flew out of Heathrow to SFO. I had a plastic bag of all my film, and had thrown in a few 3200 rolls to justify hand inspection. Sure enough, I got hand inspection, but only for the 3200 rolls. The others had to go through the xray machine.

This ploy worked easily in the states though.

eBay.

Stay away from Discount Camera on Kearny. They have great cameras lined up in the windows, but when you see their prices, just laugh and walk away.

No wonder the store is empty.

Try as I might, I have the ugliest signature and writing. I find my scrawl detracts too much

from the framed image.

I put the title, year and print name on the back and then sign it.

<img src=http://www.peculiarplanet.com/clicks/dark/ggb_clouds.jpg><br><br>

Bronica SQa 4 minutes...never a problem with shake, just be careful.

Using frames can be so punishing don't ya think?

I would recommend the following:<br><br>

Any font on earth but times new roman. sans serif fonts are easier to read<br><br>It is

also easier on the eye to read black text on white background over extended periods of

time.

Gradient buttons are passe and your nav menu should blend in well with the overall

scheme of the site.<br><br>

You've got good lines as far as the text flows, and the thumbs layout rather well, but I

think over all you need to pump up the smoothness of the site. How...that is your

call.<br><br> I would review the link below which are templates offered to

photographers. There is a lot of white space on these sites. I'm not saying the templates

are great, but they do flow well, make good use of space etc. I am a firm believer that less

is more, but it needs to be clean/sharp/well done.<br><br>

<a href=http://allwebcodesign.com/setup/cool-2.htm>sample templates</a>

<br><br>reading

other peoples code is the best way to learn. Then take that idea and add your own twist.