michiel_bernhard

Hi all,

I just got myself a second-hand EOS-1n with PB-E2. I got the 1n's manual with it but didn't get the manual on the PB-E2. I would really much appreciate it if anyone can scan it and e-mail it to me (or post it), or point me to a place where I could download it. I searched eosdoc.com but couldn't find anything on the PB-E2.

Michiel, Holland

May I ask why this is posted in the Canon EOS forum. Has the Nikon-line been bought by Canon while I was sleeping?

Michiel, Holland

Hi Alexander,

The difference between te two, as stated above is IS, a technology that helps you to get less blurred shots at longer exposures. Since this one of the 2 first lenses with IS (the other being the 28-135 IS) there is a small problem. You can't use the IS while 'panning' (this is following the subject while it is moving and then take the shot). This stabilizer will keep on trying to stabilize your panning motion. Since you intend to shoot boarding, skating and fashion I presume panning is a technique you would like to use. My own experience with shooting boarders tells me it is rather impossible to shoot the action without panning. Therefore (and this is unique for me) I would advise against the IS lens. REMEMBER! All other (then the 75-300 and 28-135) lenses with IS have a mode I and a mode II which makes it possible to pan!!! Since I presume that 'zooming with your feet' (aka using a prime instead of a zoom lens) is rather impossible for the shooting you like to do the 200 f/2.8 or 135 f/2.0(f/2.8) won't help you either and the 300 f/4.0 IS is rather expensive and still a prime. So in this case I would like to go with the others suggesting a 70-200 f/4.0 L USM. The USM will help you to focus quick (along with the f/4.0), the L design will last longer when handled a bit rough. It is opticaly a real good lens (for a zoom) There are some much neglected drawbacks: the filter size 67 mm is not used verry much so you won't be able to use filters on different lenses. f/4.0 is not realy a fast lens, and it lacks IS. Besides that, if you allready onw a 28-135 IS (a real nice 'walk around lens') half of the focal range is allready covered. Considering that a 200 f/2.8 is about the same size and weight and costs just a little more I bought the 200 instead of the 70-200. Going into the snow I will probably leave this one at home and just bring my 100-400 L USM IS, durable, stabilized while am still shaking from trying to board, a massive focal range so I can start shooting while my buddies are far away. Besides this rather bulky lens I will bring a 24 f2.8 and a 50 f/1.8 for the scenery or groupshots, these will fit in any pocket.

Michiel, Holland

It looks to me that the dust sucking matter has nothing to do with the push-pull design. Any lens that changes length during zooming or focussing will suck in air during the stage that the length of the lens increases and will push out air during the stage that the length of the lens decreases. Fact is that zooming from 100 mm to 400 mm changes the length of the lens by 88 mm. Considering that the diameter of the tubus (don't know the correct english term) is approx 72 mm the volume of air sucked in is 0.36^2 times 3.1415927 times 88 is 358,292.36 cubic mm equals 0.36 liter. So basicly everytime you zoom completely out your 100-400 sucks in more than a can of coka cola!

Michiel, Holland

Hi Frederick,

I wouldn't say the sigma is better rated but it does give you 1:1 (and it seems to me that is what your looking for). Canon has a 'lifesize converter' wich combined with the 50 f/2.5 gives you 1:1, or the 100 mm f/2.8 macro.

Michiel, Holland

I'm considering buying an EOS 10D, therefore I'm trying to get an

overview of the costs involved.

Currently my kitbag is filled with:

EOS 500n (called Rebel G in the US) with BP-8

Speedlight 540 EZ (also a Metz Mecablits AF C28 in backup)

Sigma 24 f/2.8 (to be replaced by a Canon 24 f/2.8 soon)

Simga 180 mm f/5.6 1:2 macro

Canon EF 50 f/1.8

Canon EF 200 f/2.8 USM L

Canon EF 28-135 f/3.5-5.6 USM IS

Canon EF 100-400 f/4.5-5.6 USM IS L

The speedlight should be replaced by an 420 EX (550 is to expensive

and to large IMHO) ad +/- USD 160 + shipping & tax or EUR 230

The lensbag should be complemented with the 17-40 f/4 USM L ad +/-

USD 700 + shipping & tax or EUR 800(therefore the 180 f/5.6 should

probably stay at home).

The EOS 10D + BG-ED3 + BP-511 cost +/- USD 1.700 + shipping + tax or

EUR 1.850

And, my actual question: For memory I'm considering buying to 256 MB

CF cards (so if one breaks I have backup). This is enought to save

(at raw + large fine JPEG) 2 times 32 images. Therefore I'm looking

for either an external hard disc I can write the images on from the

CF card in the camera or an external CD writer I can do the same

with.

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to write directly from the card

in the camera to an external harddisc without the assistance from a

PC of laptop? I'm planning to go to Kenia with this setup next

summer and I don't want to bring a laptop with me.

Does anyone have additional comments/ideas about the setup I

considering?

Thanks!

Michiel, Holland

Can anyone explain to me what additional shipping costs will be

billed to me if I order an EOS 10D from B&H and have it shipped to

The Netherlands (aka Holland). Since I'm from Holland I'm not

familliar with a lot of acroniems/terms used by companies as UPS, so

please explain in a simple way what costs will be billed.

Kind Regards

Michiel, Holland.

I calculate the following DOF's: (100 mm f/2.0 and COC-diameter 0.025 mm)

At 3 meters distance:

DOF ranges from 2.96 to 3.05 meter.

At 5 meters distance:

DOF ranges from 4.88 to 5.13 meter.

At 10 meters distance:

DOF ranges from 9.52 to 10.53 meter.

Michiel, Holland

Alejandro,

Your DOf indication is only true when the distance is about 100 feet, at 30 feet DOF will roughly be 0.5 feet around the subject and at 150 feet DOF will be roughly 14.5 feet around the subject.

Michiel, Holland

The DOF depends on 4 factors, distance to subject, focal length, aperture and circle of confusion diameter. With a 1.6 cropping factor I would divide the normal circle of confusion diameter (0.025 mm to 0.03 mm) by 1.6.

DOF for different distances f=200 COC diameter = 0.025/1.6 f/2.8

10 meter to subject: DOF ranges from 9.89 to 10.11 meter. (0.22 meter)

7.5 meter to subject: DOF ranges from 7.44 to 7.56 meter. (0.12 meter)

5 meter to subject: DOF ranges from 4.97 to 5.03 meter. (0.06 meter)

2.5 meter to subject: DOF ranges from 2.49 to 2.51 meter. (0.02 meter)

DOF for different distances f=200 COC diameter = 0.025/1.6 f/4.0

10 meter to subject: DOF ranges from 9.85 to 10.16 meter (0.31 meter)

7.5 meter to subject: DOF ranges from 7.41 to 7.59 meter (0.18 meter)

5 meter to subject: DOF ranges from 4.96 to 5.04 meter (0.08 meter)

2.5 meter to subject: DOF ranges from 2.49 to 2.51 meter (0.02 meter)

DOF for different distances f=200 COC diameter = 0.025/1.6 f/5.6

10 meter to subject: DOF ranges from 9.79 to 10.22 meter (0.43 meter)

7.5 meter to subject: DOF ranges from 7.38 to 7.63 meter (0.24 meter)

5 meter to subject: DOF ranges from 4.95 to 5.06 meter (0.11 meter)

2.5 meter to subject: DOF ranges from 2.49 to 2.51 meter (0.02 meter)

As you can see the difference in DOF with subjects nearby is small when you go from f/2.8 to f/5.6.

Btw, I use a user defined function in MS Excel I designed based on the formula on www.photozone.de to calculate DOF. If anyone is intrested they can send me a mail.

Michiel, Holland.

Hi QH,

I don't understand the EUR 469 your quoting from www.geengeld.nl, I keep on seeing EUR 555 on that site. Btw, geengeld means no money :) and is a Dutch way of saying that it's a bargain. I've been to their shop in Den Ham and they realy do have a great shop. On some proffesional gear they import and sell more than Canon The Netherlands itself!

Do you know anything about that store in Amersfoort/Leusden? (Crown it is called if i remember correctly) I've seen their adds on marktplaats.nl but can't find them on the net or in the telephone-book?

There is always the possibility of buying gear in the US yourself and taking it with you in your carrry-on (and that way trying to avoid Dutch import tax and VAT, this not completely legal). You will pay local taxes in the US but they say you can reclaim them. Thing is I still haven't found out how to do that, can anyone help me on that?

Michiel, Holland

Nick, how often do you fire slaves? :)

Michiel, Holland

Hi QH,

We have a nice little tax situation going on here, see www.belastingdienst.nl and choose douane.

You will pay 19% VAT (BTW in dutch) over the price including shipping fees and import tax.

import tax on lenses 6.7%, on bodies 4.3% and on digital stuff 0%

So if you pay USD 300 for Canon 50 mm f/1.4 USM and pay USD 40 for shipping you'll have to pay USD 340 to B&H and UPS. That EUR 212,50 at goin F/X rate. So the import tax will be 6.7% over EUR 212.50 is EUR 14,23 and the VAT will be 19% over (EUR 212.50 + EUR 14.23) = EUR 43.08. In the end you'll be paying EUR 269,82. The best current prices I know of in Holland is EUR 555,00 (www.geengeld.nl) and EUR 569,00 (www.kamera-express.nl)

Michiel, Holland

Primoz,

Thats because the EOS 3 has a AF chip that works from EV 0-18 and the 300 from EV 1-18.

Michiel, Holland

Hi Matt,

Personally I use a cheap old EOS 500n + BP8 (Rebel G in the US) with a plastic lens mount with my 100-400 L USM IS. This goes well without any problem. Most of the time I carry the weight of the lens in my left hand and let the body just hang on the lens. (just as I do with all my lenses). Remember that the metal lensmount on the 3 is screwed to the plastic body of the 3. So when you're rough on your gear and things start to break you'll either break the lensmount with the Rebel or just break the lensmount out of the 3. I would like to suggest the 7E, it has a metal (magnesium) body, newer software than the 3 and is the most quit EOS in the range. Btw, If the 3 + PB-E2 are in good condition I'm willing to buy it from you for USD 665 + UPS costs; just send me a e-mail with pictures of the gear.

Michiel, Holland

The 7E does have spotmetering:

EOS 30 (7E):

Metering modes TTL max. aperture metering with a 35-zone silicon photocell.

(1) Evaluative metering (linked to all focusing points)

(2) Partial metering (approx. 10% of viewfinder area at center)

(3) Centerweighted averaging metering

EOS 3:

TTL full-aperture metering with a 21-zone SPC (silicon photocell). Metering modes: Evaluative metering (linkable to any focusing point),

Partial metering (approx. 8.5% of viewfinder at center)

Center spot metering (approx. 2.4% of viewfinder at center)

Spot metering (linked to the focusing point at approx. 2.4% of viewfinder)

Multi-spot metering (Max. eight multi-spot metering entries)

Center-weighted average metering.

(www.canon.com)

Michiel, Holland

According to EOS Magazine there are 3 types of Tripod Mount Rings sold seperately:

A/W (white) for EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM

A/B (black) for EF 80-200 f/2.8 L UMS, EF 200 f/2.8 L USM and EF 200 f/2.8 L USM II

B/B (black) for MP-E 65 f/2.8 and EF 100 f/2.8

On focussing with Canon EOS there are four things that matter:

Lensspeed: A faster lens will give the AF-sensor more light = info to work with.

Focusing motor: Lenses with (ring) USM motors focus faster than other lenses.

Body: The center sensor of the EOS 1v and EOS 3 can work with less light than the other sensors in and sensors in other bodies.

Flash: Most (better) flashes have a red focussing asist beam that makes it possible to focus in complete darkness (I tried this with my 500n + 550EX and it works!)

So if you want to shoot weddings on location my advise will be a EOS 3 with PB-2, a 24-70 f/2.8 USM L and a 70-200 f/2.8 USM L IS and a 550 EX

Hi 1,000 years water,

I have the exact same problem with a lot of the pictures I took during a 3 week trip to California/Nevada/Utah/Arizona. When you search this site fore my name the thread should come up.

Michiel, Holland

Probably the Infrared beam Canon uses on its EOS-range for measuring film advance will be no problem on a 300D.

By the way, doesn't Canon use a IR-blocking filter in front of the CMOS?

Michiel, Holland

As allready mentioned, the focusing ring can be turned endlessly.

One of the drawbacks of the 28-135 IS is the lens creap when you point it downwards, so if your zoom ring doesn't turn smooth this looks to me that something is wrong.

Michiel, Holland

If you are a Canon user I totally agree with Hokum (If you are a non-Canon user I still agree with him),

Get a 24 mm f/2.8 (or 28 mm) and a 50 mm f/1.8 (or if you like a f/1.8 and a f/1.4 respectively).

And the 70-200 mm f/4.0 USM L.

Do NOT buy a non-USM lens, USM is always worth the extra money.

Michiel Holland

Subject: Response to Replacing my kit lens

Christophor,

Based on MTF data I would recommend the 28-135 3.5-5.6 USM IS (score 3.5) over the 24-85 3.5-4.5 USM (score 3.1). When you compare performance on the widest opening (the aperture you'll probably want to use if quality is OK).

24-85:

24 mm f/3.5 0.73

35 mm f/4.0 0.70

50 mm f/4.0 0.69

85 mm f/4.5 0.70

28-135:

28 mm f/3.5 0.73

50 mm f/4.5 0.81

85 mm f/5.6 0.80

135 mm f/5.6 0.70

You'll have some telephoto capabilities with this lens, I totally agree with you to expand your possiblities with the 70-200 f/4.0 USM L. Currently I'm thinking of this lens as well.

I have the 28-135 IS, a 100-400 IS and a 200 f/2.8 L (along with some other primes ranging from 24 f/2.8 to 180 f/5.6 macro). I just don't know wheter I should trade the 200 f/2.8 for the 70-200 f/4.0. Maybe wait and hope for a 70-200 f/4.0 IS?

Canon, can you take care of this please?

Michiel, Holland

Scott,

I think you have to start with asking yourself what you want to do with your bag. Do you want to keep all your gear together in one bag for transporting it from the house to the car? Or do you want to carry al lot of camera gear yourself and almost nothing else? Or do you want to take some gear on a hiking trip?

For keeping you stuff together and moving it by car you'll need a large bag that lets you get to you gear easily.

To carry all you stuff yourself you probably need a backpack. I can carry 15 Kg all day on my back but 5 Kg on one shoulder is to much to carry all day.

When you want to bring personel and camera gear you'll need a flexible setup. I use a normal backpack (depending on the occasion from 35 to 75 l.) with a Lowepro TLZ Pro on my chest. I attach additional lenscases to the straps of the backpack. Ussualy I start with a backpack large enough so I can detach the lenscases and TLZ and put them in the main compartment. That way nobody can see that I'm carrying my equipment.

Currently most of my gear is in a Lowepro Nature Trekker and the TLZ so I can grab it quickly. When I go on a trip I reconfigure things with a normal backpack and lenscases.

Michiel, Holland.

I have a problem with a batch of 900 prints I received from my local

photoshop.

When photographing a relative dark subject against a relative light

background I have a even more lighter area contouring the dark

subject. So I have for instance a dark tree in the center, a near-

white halo around it and than the lightblue sky.

Unfortunately I don't have the equipment to post an example.

Does anyone know what is happening here? I can't find the problem in

negatives, its only in the prints. It happens with a variaty of

lensens, I can't find it in older prints (from this and other

photoshops).

Please help.

Michiel, Holland