michiel_bernhard

As always in the 70-200 (f/2.8) (f/4.0) (IS) (Sigma) discussion someone has to suggest the 200 f/2.8 L USM (I or II).

So here it is: what about the 200 f/2.8 prime? It's even smaller then the 70-200 f/4.0 L USM, optics are at least as good, its 1 stop faster.

Personally I have 2-way strategie for my lense line-up:

1) A focal range of 28 to 400 mm in IS-zooms (28-135 f/3.5-4.5 USM IS & 100-400 f/4.5-5.6 L USM IS)

2) A focal range of 24 to 200 mm in relative fast primes (24 f/2.8, 50 f/1.8, 100 f/2.8 USM macro and 200 f/2.8 L USM).

This way all bases are pretty much covered. I could add a 300 f/4 L USM IS but this just adds weight and funds to the collection, won't fit in the Nature Trekker AW (along with a 540EZ 1n + PB-E2 & 500n + BP-8) and wouldn't add functionality over the 100-400 other then slightly better optics.

Bot this has nothing to do with your actual question.

I don't know verry much about American houses but I presume they are a lot bigger than over here in Holland. So maybe 25.6mm equivalent of your 16-35 f/2.8 on a Drebel is enough. But you allready indicated that it isn't for some interior shots. Currently Canon hasn't much to offer but I think Sigma has a 12-24 coming up. That would make a realy nice combo with a 28-135 f/3.5-4.5 USM IS and a 200 f/2.8 L USM. And a 50 f/1.8 since you just can't miss that little one.

Michiel, Holland

Puppy Face:

"All autofocus SLR cameras share similar limitations when shooting in low light."

Thats not completely true, active AF systems do not have these limitations, only passive systems have them.

Michiel, Holland

csab' józsa, is there any company that makes an EF 100 Macro f/2.8 lens? As far as I now EF is only being used by Canon.

Michiel, Holland

Actualy Mike's answer is not completely true. Most Canon lens hoods are connected to the lens with a bajonet on the outer ring of the lens instead of screw in lens hoods who are being screwed in the filterthread. Even if the frontlens turns during focussing the bajonet style hood stays in fixed position.

Michiel, Holland

I have a Sigma 180 mm f/5.6 1:2 macro (52mm filter) for Canon EF and the only switch on it is the AF/M switch.

Michiel, Holland

Every know and then I read about lightmetering where the amount of

measured light is measured in an absolute value, like EV 10. I know

about programshift and lightstops but can anyone tell me how one can

translate EV 10 to a correct exposure. Say correct exposure for a

shot is 1/60th of a second with an aperture of f/2.8 and ISO 100 film

(regardless of the way it is being metered). I know this is the same

as 1/30th of a second at f/2.8 on ISO 200 or at f/1.4 on ISO 100 and

so on.

But is this EV 10, or maybe EV 5? For me this is relevant because my

Speedlite 540 EZ (on my EOS 1n) will automatically use fill in flash

when the ambient light is metered at EV 10 or more. From EV 10 to EV

13 flash output will be reduced by 0.5 to 1.5 stops. From EV 13

onwards it will reduced by 1.5 stops.

Presumably EV 0 equals no light at all so there is a starting point.

Since light stops are lognormal (if that�s the proper term in

English), 1 full stop being a doubling ar halving of the amount of

light maybe the �EV-scale� shows the same pattern (but you can double

all you want, if you start at EV 0 equals no light this no light

doubled is still no light mathmaticly). So maybe it is a lineair

scale (or I am making one more mistake).

Michiel, Holland

A geared head maybe? Bogen/Manfrotto has them.

Michiel, Holland

I don't understand this talk about people at Gasser being unfriendly. My girlfriend and I were over there to buy a 100-400 4.5-5.6 L USM IS wich they didn't have on stock. The man helping us was kind enough to call Keeble & Suchat to check if the had one in stock for us and gave exact directions to Palo Alto. I don't know what is expected but I call that friendly.

Michiel, Holland

Besides factors as the suply/demand curve and EOS [economics of scale :)] on production Jesper pointed at another economic reason. I just checked the 'everything EOS' booklet that came with EOS magazine last year and counted 45 differend current models of lens hoods ranging in price from USD 35 to USD 866 (ET160 for the EF 600 f/4.0 L USM IS). Anyone using hoods regurarly know they consume a lot of space in your camerabag. Being a low volume item the cost of transport and inventory are relatively speaking extremely high.

When every lens came with a hood they certainly would be lots cheaper, but newb's make their buying decision on the spec/price ratio of a kit and do not value little accesoires like hoods in the specs.

And we all know how Canon is making its profits in the SLR market, its not the few proffesional photogs who spend an extreme lot of cash on their equipment. And its not on the larger group of amateurs spending serious cash on serious equipment either.

Michiel, Holland

Dino,

Sigma makes some nice lenses and bodies but I never saw a tripod made by them.

Michiel, Holland

Gasser on 2nd street, call first if you want to check stock.

One hour drive Keeble & Suchat in Palo Alto.

Michiel Bernhard

I would say go for it! Apart from the 17-40 (is on my wish list) this is my lens line-up. I use a 1n + PB-E2 and i really like the combo of 1n + pb-e2, 540EZ, 28-135 and 100-400. I like the 100-400 for its length and IS, the same goes for the 28-135. In both cases image quality is not the absolute top of the line, on the other hand images blurred by camera shake aren't superb either. Besides these two I have a 50 f/1.8, a 200 f/2.8 and two Sigma's (24 f/2.8 and 180 f/5.6 1:2 macro). When I like to travel lighter (or need the speed) i just take the 24, 50 and 200 primes. The 180 will probably replaced by the 100 f/2.8 macro.

Michiel, Holland

Vadim,

It all depends on how much time you have and what you want to see. Most of 'classic' old centers have been menioned allready, I would like to add Alkmaar to this list. Most of Holland can easily reached by train but if you take a look at the map you see that the upper left corner (Noord Holland) is connected to the upper right corner (Friesland) by a 32 Km. dyke. There is no railway track on this dyke, the only public transportation for this route is a bus. This is no problem but it just takes more time. If you want to get away from the tourist you better stay clear from most of the cities mentioned above. The centre of Amsterdam, Delf, The Hague (locally known as Den Haag or 's Gravenhage) are rather overwhelmed by tourists. The same goes for the cities near the beaches during summer season, mostly German toerists there. If you want to shoot some landscape spring is the preferred seasons for flower fields. Feel free to send me an email for more specific questions.

Michiel, Holland

I second Keeble, they realy helped me when I was over ther. Gasser on 2nd street in SF was helpfull too (I was looking for something he didn't have on stock, he called Keeble to check if they had it in stock and gave me directions to them).

Michiel, Holland

David,

How come the perspective is not what you were used too? It is still a 100mm lens, just the image center is enlarged more to create the same size prints.

Since neither French nor English are my first languages (and I am a numbercruncher, not a lingo) this is what I make of it:

8.2 MP CMOS sensor (28,7 x 19,1 mm; 1.3x)

8.5 pictures a second

40 pictures memory in JPEG Large mode

New DIGIC processor

Ultra exact white balance control

CF (I & II) and SD card slots

50 to 3200 ISO range

New E-TTL measuring

230.000 pixel 2� LCD screen

Pictbridge compatible

Replacement of the 1D

Firewire and USB 1.1 connection

Launche: April 2004

Battery: NP-E3 (1.650 Ma)

Focus & metering: like 1v

To be complete (as far as my knowledge goes):

EOS 1 in September 1989

EOS 1n in November 1994

EOS 1n HS in November 1994 (HS stands for High Speed, it comes with a PB-E1 powerdrivebooster but without the Grip E1)

EOS 1n DP in November 1994 (DP stands for Dual Power, it comes with a BP-E1 dual battery pack but without the Grip E1)

EOS 1n RS in March 1995 with a fixed pellicle mirror.

EOS 1v in March 2000

EOS 1v HS in March 2000 (With PB-E2 but without GR-E2)

Michiel, Holland

I have two questions about the Canon EOS 1n I got myself last week:

1) There are several focussing screens being offered for Eos 1n

cameras, is it possible to replace this focussing screen yourself?

(and how?)

2) Along with the 1n I have a PB-E2 and a BP-E1, are there non-canon

powersources available for these packs?

thanks!

Michiel, Holland

Hi Jaime,

I've had similar problems with the exact same combination. I still haven't figured out why this happens but I haven't had the problem for a long time now. I suggest you clean the contacts.

Michiel, Holland

Even 400 ISO film will go fine.

If you are visiting The Netherlands I can give you some tips, either on photographic supplies or on places to visit.

Michiel, Holland

Sorry to disagree with popular belief, but I read in a well-respected camera-magazine that Tamron does built lenses for the big brands in their factory. I was shocked at the time but had no reason to mistrust the magazine. Onfortunately I can't remember what magazine and what issue and the pile in my study is just to big to find that quote again.

Along this, a lot of brands use optical glass made by Hoya.

Hi Scotty,

I'm with the ones suggesting the 135 f/2.0, is probably the best in aperture/focal length for a affordable price. I calculated some DOF's at wide open:

5 meter range: DOF ranges from 4.93 to 5.07 meter.

10 meter range: DOF ranges from 9.73 to 10.28 meter.

15 meter range: DOF ranges from 14.41 to 15.64 meter.

20 meter range: DOF ranges from 18.96 to 21.16 meter.

25 meter range: DOF ranges from 23.4 to 26.84 meter.

35 meter range: DOF ranges from 31.93 to 38.72 meter.

50 meter range: DOF ranges from 43.97 to 57.95 meter.

So you have to focus pretty acurate, wich is not a problem with a f/2.0 lens.