wuyeah

Hello all. I have come to ask this question and prepare for the worse.

 

I am using medium format camera with polaroid back. The film I am using is 690

color. I have done several things wrong, first after i seperated the film positive and

negative apart, i staged the positive together and they end up...sticking on to each

other and when i peal them apart, the color imaged got ripped...ouch

 

after my heart broken experience, i tell myself that as long i have my negative, i

should be fine. Then I see there are extra chemical on the negative, i

came "creatively" thinking i should use cold water to wash them...i have done it to

2 of my negative then, shock me to see it. There are something got washed away

by water! OMG.

 

Now all have left with is a real purple color negative (it was more like black). Am I

truely mess-up my negative to a degree that nothing can do to help?

 

I have search a bit that people said sodium sulfite& Hypo Clearing Agent can

develope polaroid negative. Should I even bother to do that with my purple

negative?

Yes, it is been replaced by 24-70. A lot of ppl praise 24-70 over 28-70 in quality, so far i

hv not see much of of fact that 24-70 is far superior. Since 28-70 was a wonderful lens, i

am sure 24-70 is a improvement but prob won't not "far superior".

 

I got mine 28-70 from B&H as their last batch. I love it. I got it mainly cuz i need the

aperture ring since 24-70 do not have it.

 

If you want a 28-70 for a good reason, i think ebay is your best bet to find one. It is

running about 900-1100usd in mint condition. It will save you more money to get it new

since so many ppl want the newest and 24mm reach.

 

Without a good reason, 24-70 is a good match with your auto body and you also gain in

distance a bit.

Hello all,

 

I have to be very honest, at early time when i started into photography, i spend a lot of money trying to

buy different range of lenses, from 24mm to 180mm (i mainly shoot prime). Just curious about the

difference, not really because I actually needed for work or anything and ais lens are fairly cheap on used

market. I know it is bad habit. Over the years, i pretty much did use most of them. I found my 180mm

f2.8 Ais rarely out of door.

 

A lens is not in use is a lens that is wasted, i strongly feel that. So I have decided if I do not use it, I might

consider selling this wonderful lens to someone who can effectively produce wonderful work. Before I put

it in the market, I would like to ask you guys in what situation when you found 180mm is neccessary? A

must.

 

My reason of not using it as much cuz I often feel 180mm is very close for portrait work. I found most of

time I'll end up using 85mm or 135mm Ais for portrait. Both seems to provide a close crop without being

too far away from the subject. More intimate to the subject as well.

 

You guys prob will ask me, "what kind of stuff you usually shoot?" Since I am not professional, my

shooting interest really is not as focus as professional. from landscap, to flower at the market, street, to

portrait of close ones there really nothing I don't shoot at the same time not focus at all.

 

How & what do you use your 180mm prime lens for? If you willing to share your experience & your

wonderful work, I am all welcome to recieved comment or suggestion.

 

Thanks,

W.

 

P.S. I only shoot film. (don't laugh digital fella) I do enjoy develope & print my own B&W film sometimes. I

do not own any auto lens (not anymore). Mainly shooting with F3HP if you wish to know my setup in order

to provide me with better suggestion.

"Thanks guys... I am totally blownaway:)"- Rober Davies

 

Me too, I always like blonde!

F3HP is perhaps the best Nikon camera.

What are you shooting with exactly. A lot of lengendary AiS lenses are very inexpansive on

2ndary market. You loose the AF (i don't use AF) but you will still get quality.

 

You will be waste a lot of time on photoshop trying to mimic color, contrast & Sharpness.

Unless you have very very sensitive eyes with a lot of time making multiple lays for

different parts of an image, well...still, its wasting time.

 

To me, highend lens don't take breath taking image, photographer do. A great photograph

is not just about color, contrast & sharpness. Then its whole different topic.

Serious why buy a 1D MKIII now? Unless you are a PRO and really need the equipment right

the way.

 

Nikon had introduced their full frame D3 with 8 frame per/sec capability, you think Canon

will let Nikon lead easy? Its highly possible we'll be able to expect Canon to have 1D MkIV in

full frame, 10 sec/sec this 2008. All that focus problem will be fixed by then. I'll say wait.

>> What motivates me most is constantly reading about the sharpness of the images with

the 2.8 lenses. Makes me look at everything I shoot with my 28-135 and wonder "What

would this look like with a 24-70 2.8/f?".

 

My response above was half kidding. That was me got curious of what result will come

with pro lens. I even carry all the debt buying them, just for the hack of "what would my

picture gonna look like." Done this try that, you know what, now i am only having and

using 50mm f1.4 and got no L lens with me anymore. Pro equipment doesn't turn my

picture as out standing as i would imagin. Mainly lack of knowledge. I slowly admit the

fact, my hobby will stay as a hobby. "Photographer" is more about vision, talent, timing,

knowledge and i just take good picture that i enjoy, but not great picture ppl will

remember me by. I end up not enjoy carry all weight of the lens and need wider aperture

to provide me the flexiability. So I choose to keep only the 50mm f1.4. Stay simple to

think about "photography" not "photographic equipment."

 

I know my words might be hard for you to belive and listen to. You prob still gonna get

the L lens to see what really it is all about. Which is ok, but do sharpen your skills! Anyone

can make better picture with 28-135 than a rich monkey with his 24-70L if he has the

skill of a photographer.

There is no better lens between the two. You really have to get lens that suits your

shooting style and only you can answer the question that you are asking.

 

If you really ask me, with 40D, I'll say to try 24-70L. It provide you with mid tele range, so

if you have no clue what exactly to shoot, 24-70L will be the best bet. Then later you

might be back asking us which full frame camera to buy, then 24-70L will be even more

useful.

 

Then...

 

you can't resist not to buy a 70-200L IS. No matter what other ppl say to you or how

many review you have read, you just want to have it. So you buy it, and eventually love it

and decide there are overlaping distance and sometimes you feel you need to go wider.

You might sell your 24-70L for a 16-35L. 16-35L & 70-200L does work like a wonder,

but you sometimes do wish you have wider aperture around and 50mm f1.4's price just

seems like a piece of cake to you after the 2 L lens you bought. So you will add 50mm f1.4

easy.

 

I think I just had a flash back...........

Yeah, I read that review before the lens sale on market. But I was wondering about this kinda

of review:

 

http://www.16-9.net/lens_tests/canon1740_nikon1735/c1740vn1735b.html

Hello all, seems like a lot of folks start to get their new equipment already.

I have 28-70mm because of new G design, I decided not to update my lens. There is no clear reason for

me to do so anyway since my 28-70 is sharp & perfectly working condition.

 

Though I am not planning on getting new equipment, I can't help my curiousity how much can 24-70mm

can really get. Any site already setup head to head picture against picture result. I remember when the

24-70mm was announced, a lot of ppl are getting the hype of it based on MTF chart.

 

Now the lens is out, I can't help wonder if it is dramatically better or....we do get new 24mm distance but

quality is about the same.

Surefire Flashlight M3, a Folder knife, a compass, a lighter!

 

What kinda man walk out door without those?

Hello guys, I got my text roll & scan back with my Rolleiflex 2.8F Planar.

 

 

The picture come out yellowish.....it was cloudy sky, out door situation. At out door, picture should be

blue-ish isn't it. The film is Fuji Astia 100.

 

Is it always like that? is it more suitable for B&W pictures?.....the camera is old, i wasn't expect the picture

it came out looks old too.

 

Thanks.

Here is my take. Are you shooting pictures on tripod or even a monopod?

 

If you did not, from my experise, the lens might be too heavy for you. 24-70L isn't a

small lens. Holding technique needs some improvement like tug in your elbow close to

your chest. That is point 1. Few pictures from your shot that i see are in door with natural

light. I assume they are done by hand held. Though aperture goes as wide as 2.8 in door

without flash still needs a lot of technique to get picture sharp. The only way to find out if

it is lens problem or your technique, the best way to test it out is use it on tripod with test

roll, so you are 100% sure you did not get a lemon. Most of the time with L lens its

technique, but you still can't rule out the possibility that the lens might need service.

 

I never shot my 24-70L with digital (because i dont' hv one) with high ISO as 1000, but

there are times in door situation at night, even i tug my hand really tight, my picture still

don't come out sharp as I would expect. Mostly is due to the weight of the lens, yet, if you

shoot more with it, you arm will eventually adjust the weight, then you can shot even

better image with wider aperture lens than f2.8.

 

If it is your first time getting such big lens, be sure to test out on tripod and see the result

and decide if it needs service or return before it is too late. If you have not done that, it is

hard for anyone tells you what is correct.

Because if they are small, they will be call "Leica" :P

That means if Noct is "made in Germany" prob will end up $7500+

The camera is bought from famous CLA Harry F. He did check it before Rolleiflex landed in

my hand. I try all i can and really try not to force it still won't work. I came with a thought

that what if I load a fresh film to see how that goes. Which I just did 10 min ago.

 

After loading, the camera release the Jam stage! Everything seems working perfectly again.

That is a good news.

 

I figure, after i finished my first roll...something i might hv done wrong that might cause

of jam. did I press the shutter accidently after I finish the roll?

 

Which now..i still have no clear clue. Not sure if I still need to sent it back to Harry to take

a look of it or the camera is perfectly fine. Anyone has the similar situation or knowing

clearly what might cause it so in the future same thing won't happen twice.

Hello guys, I just finished my first text roll through my Rolleiflex 2.8F.

After i took out of the film and now I just found out that my shutter knob stays at 1/30 and do not allow

me to turn 1/60 or 1/15. I did not use more strength, afraid I will break something internally.

 

Anyone had similar problem and solved it? Is it common like Hasselblad jamming (it shouldn't because TLR

don't mount lens)? Am I missing any proper steps that cause it happen?

 

What I should do?

Don't do anything to it! All lenses more or less has some dust in it over time.

 

You want to clean them out, even with Canon professional, you are opening a possibility for it to go wrong. What if there were human error during the reassembly? what if the lens become not as sharp as it use to?

 

Anything could happen and can be much worse than dust in the lens.

I am not fully Awww....with D3 with minor design improvement that i could think of..but as compare with medium format....

 

The price tag that medium format currently has on...with a good photographer, I don't see any futer with medium format! Yes, D3 or 1D MkIII is that good.

 

With medium format, professional quality is about the same. MF is not any faster. To me, there are too many limitation with medium format compare with digital 35mm. D 35mm is already heavy enough!

 

Unless you still enjoy shooting film (which i am)! I don't see much of BRIGHT FUTURE for medium format if they don't wanna bring down their price.

Am I the first one?? The only comment i had to make is......the new 24-70mm feels too small

in hand, and the vertical shutter is too far from AF direction pad. I was really happy with

11AF points. Now i just think there are too many AF points then what we needed it! I don't

want to be a party pooper but over all...the cometition is finally over between Canon & Nikon.

Speaking from a Nikon convert! So, for now, Bravo for the Tech who made cameras better for

all pro shooter. Bravo for that! For ppl who haven't try the new D3, you just had to get it to

belive it!

Hello guys, I was recently checked the official website. It has sub section

of "Planet V" linke: http://www.hasselblad.com/planet-v/start.aspx

 

What exactly are they? Are they for purchase of any kind? A customization to

your V series like Leica M custom made versions available to customers who has

money? I know they don't hold higher in practical value, but i had to admit,

the Koi fish Hassey looks graphically stunning to eyes. Kind of wish its film

back is also painted.

I don't see any advantage of using EOS 3 at this point. With 1V's used price tag, its no

brainer to me.

With the crazy price tag, most consumer just won't buy. Ppl who buys it certainly knows what they are doing with their equpiment so they won't sell it cuz they actually need it.

 

Not all PROs are using H3D; they use whatever they feel comfortable & available. Not all H3D are using by PROs; ppl can spend their money any way they want but a H3D/503CWD won't deliver PRO result unless you have PRO skills & knowledge.

50mm f1.4 is easier to work with for portrait work. It is faster to move closer to subject than move away from it. Simply there is no suprise, you don't need to move your eye away from camera. Move away, you will need to watch your back, reframe maybe you don't back up far enough, reframe....sometimes you will need few tries, but the magic moment is already gone.