burak_savak

Hi,

I recently got a Fuji GA645ZI, everything quite nice, except for the LCD on the back door sometimes does not show

all of the numbers/characters or it shows half of the number.

It seems like it is a connection connection/solder problem.

Is there anybody else experienced this problem?

Is this a common problem for this type of camera?

Is there a fix for this?

Regards,

Thanks for the answers. Sorry, but I have further questions.

I have a lens board already which came with the non-working lens.

Since I am very new to large format, I do not know whether any lens I can get would screw in or not?

Are there different standards for large format like in the case of nikon mount, canon mount, mamiya etc.?

If so, where can find that standards to check which lens may screw in to my lens board?

How do you understand the coverage area of the lens? Does write on it?

HI,

I just bought a Korona IV from ebay but the lens comes with it is a mess

aperture blades are thorn, shutter erratic etc. Therefore, I decided to bite the

bullet and buy another shutter. However, since this is my first large format

camera, I really do not know, whether any large format lens would fit to the

lens board.

The lens came with the camera is: conley safety by wollensak. It is screwed to

the lens board.

I really appreciate if somebody gives me some direction about what lens to buy?

How can I understand if the lens would mount to my lens board? Any other thing I

need to pay attention.

Regards,

One reason, I, my self did not post any reason was "not to put words to the people."

- One very very good reason is dynamic range. As we all know is digital cameras dynamic range is still worse than film.

- One Other good reason is image/negative size (especially you are doing medium format or larger.)

Hi,

I have a question about conventional BW (film) vs digital BW.

if and Why film BW is better or superior to digital BW?

Can you give me some reasons?

PS: I am a film fan that uses digital as well. But I think film BW is superior

to digital BW but I need solid reasons.

Hi,

Unfortunately, I lost one of my negatives and it is only printed to matte paper.

I would like to digitize it, however when I scan it with my epson 4990, the

texture appears. What can I do? is there a software that could fix it?

Regards,

HI,

I have a Pentax 645 and everything seems fine except that when I put the camera

to auto mode, it does not show aperture. Whatever I do, it always shows "F--". I

found the user manual and read it several times, and still no luck. I tried film

back cover given with it to test and I also put film in it.

So far no luck, I think either camera or the lens has problems with Auto mode

but I can not find out because I do not have any other lens.

Pls advise how can I figure out which one is faulty?

Regards,

Hi,

I am stepping into medium format recently, therefore, I bought a Mamiya M645

with AE prism.

Everything is fine except, when I wind the crank to clock the shutter. (there is

not film in it) The mirror goes half way up and stay there till I press the

shutter and it goes up fully and drops back where it is supposed to be.

Is that a normal thing or my camera is broken?

Thank

Hi,

I am stepping into medium format recently, therefore, I bought a Mamiya M645

with AE prism.

Everything is fine except, when I wind the crank to clock the shutter. (there is

not film in it) The mirror goes half way up and stay there till I press the

shutter and it goes up fully and drops back where it is supposed to be.

Is that a normal thing or my camera is broken?

Thanks.

Hi,

I have a HP20 and epson4990, and I also read very good things about vuescan. so

I decided to give it a shot. but with niether scanner's scans with vuescan would

even come close to the one comes with the printer (1-HP photosmart scanner

software, 2-epson scan, 3-silvesfast se).

plus epson came with silverfast se, and its results are the best among all.

I just tried to install and scan, first. no good. than I tried with some

parameters posted by some members of the forum, no luck either.

As far as, I read, this software is good than most scanner softwares comes with

scanner. So many of the people just use it rather than using original scanner

software. It can even compete with silver fast.

I am scanning kodak portra 400UC.

what am I doing wrong?

One more thing, with epson, when I tried to scan multiple strips, vuescan does a

good job to mark the frames, however, as I try to switch from one shot to other

by clicking on the second shot, it also changes the white balance depends on

where I have clocked on the frame. I did not set anything to make this intentional,

so how can I disable it? Is that normal?

Thanks,

sorry it should be:

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/

try www.freestyle.com. very good prices, reasonable shipping and excellent packing.

-b.

this scanner looks like, hp's top of the line product. however, it is in the

same price range as epson 4490.

does anybody has any experience on this? (esp medium format, and 35mm scanning)

regards,

even the user manual of the it does not give a clear answer. it says up to 2000dpi.

can anyone who owns this tell me its dpi for 6x6 and 35mm?

Thanks.

if you compare those 3 for film scanning (35mm and 120/220 formats), which one

would you prefer?

kodak was quite old during its day, can it still compete those other 2?

As far as read, it seems like 4990 superior to canon 9950, from the reviews I

read. is that the case?

if you compare those 3 for film scanning (35mm and 120/220 formats), which one

would you prefer?

kodak was quite old during its day, can it still compete those other 2?

As far as read, it seems like 4990 superior to canon 9950, from the reviews I

read. is that the case?

So, to ensure I understand the people saying discard:

The powder I got makes a gallon.

Then I need to dillute it 1:1 with water at the time of usage. (which will make 2 gallons of developer effectively)

Am I understanding correct?

By the way, thanks to everybody who wortes.

Till now, I did several tens of hours reading about developing but it is like ocean. You learn something new every other post you read.

Regards,

burak.

Today, I just got my first set of chemicals for B&W developing and finishing the

equipment. I am very excited but I also have many questions:

I got all the chemical from kodak brand, but and the developer is D76 (only one

that my local shop had) I read a lot of good things about it, however

reusability part is a little bit confusing for me.

Here are my questions:

1- what am I supposed to used but reusable chemicals like D76 or fixer, etc.

Because my developing tank is for about 500ml, so after I use 500ml of the 1

gallon solution. should it put it back to storage bottle, I should keep the used

solution separate from the unused?

2- I was planning to get HC110 because it is one time use, but with the same

token I read better things for D76. Which one is better? (I know this is a

subjective question but I appreciate if you comment.)

Thanks up front for your help,

Regards,

Bunch of thanks for the responses so far, but how about color C-41?

I see, developer and bleach kits but they do not include fixer or stabilizer. How does that work? or what am I missing?

-b.

HI,

Given the number of the labs going down everyday, I decided to start my own

develop at home.

I am only planning to develop the film, no plans for printing, because I scan them.

I got couple books and did a lot of reading about how to develop. I started to

purchase the pieces need for it. So far so good, however now I need chemicals.

The deciding what to buy and where buy (even harder), is the most concerning

part for me at the moment.

First of all, could somebody tell me what is the best chemicals as a starter for

both color and b/w? and where can I buy them?

I do not do too much film, I do couple rools of either 120mm or 35mm in a month.

I use digital but as I said earlier I do not want to lose my film option due to

lack of labs or I do not want to lose an arm and leg while I try to develop a

roll of 120mm because it will become extremely expensive.

Therefore I need some kind of chemical with good shelf life and coming in

relatively small quantity.

One thing frustrating about chemicals part is, there are very limited places

selling them (at least so far I found like b&h, calumet etc) and the is no such

thing as a starter kit available for a person like me.

Regards,

burak.

HI,

I just got a nikon N4004s, since this is my first Nikon. (I previously

own pentax, minolta, canon) currently I do not have a lens for it yet.

N4004s has batteries in it. When I first got it, I pressed the

shutter. (both aperture and time set to some arbitrary values (not S

or A) ) Then mirror went up but curtain did not open. The self timer

LED lit contanstly for about 3 secs and went off. I tried several

different things like:

- setting A, S, and setting both

- setting B

- putting a fresh set of batteries.

did not help, always same thing is happening.

Then I pressed rewind buttons (pull one to the right ans press the top

one) since then even mirror does not move.

when I press the shutter, the self timer LED lights up constantly

about 3 secs and film rewinder turn about half a turn and stops.

I tried tp place a film in it. did not help.

Is this normal?

Any comments?

One last question:

what is the function of minimum aperture lever?

Thanks in advance,

burak.

I am a beginner, I have a film processing question.

If I take a pro negative film, such as Kodak Portra, to regular

processing lab, does it effect any?

Or the processing of regular film, such as kodak max versatility, and

pro film, such as portra are the same?

Should I take pro film to a prolab, since its processing differs from

others?

Here is my plan:

Previously, I was thinking to use slide film because of paper

printers different characteritics, however, I recently learned that

after your film is processed, instead of having prints, you can ahve

a picture CD, which I think scanned film. Now it makes much more

sense because, I do not need to scan slides or negatives at home to

use with photoshop. Therefore, I need to learn whether I can use

reggular photolabs with pro film.

Regards,

burak.