burak_savak

<p>Hi I have 4 konica FT1's in my collection. <br /><br />They have been sitting for a while. Today I tried to fire one of them. The motor works, however when I depress the shutter I have to wait several seconds before I can take the next photo. LEDs does not work. <br /><br />I have tried all others and the same problem. <br /><br />Got new batteries and no good, still the same problem. <br /><br />Am I doing something wrong? <br /><br />Can anybody with a similar experience help me? <br /><br />Thanks,</p>

<p>Thanks a lot for all that info.<br>

It looks like stick to 4990 till a drum scanner (if ever possible.)<br>

Speaking of drum scanners. I am quite green about them and their specs. Can you point me a starting point? <br>

Which drum is most affordable for a advanced enthusiast like me? (since I am not making money, the budget is quite tight.)<br>

Regards,</p>

<p>HI,<br>

<br />Sorry not being clear.<br>

I generally scan 120 or 220 film.<br>

sometimes 35mm.<br>

I see the price tag for V700 is about $500 and V750 is about $800.<br>

Does it worth to upgrade to those from 4990?<br>

My concern, I will pay a high price for little gain. Therefore, I am looking for people who did this upgrade and did this comparison and they can help me to decide.<br>

Regards,</p>

<p>I have an epson 4990, and planning to upgrade from it to something.</p>

<p>Which scanners are considered better than epson 4990?</p>

<p>Regards,</p>

<p>Did you get this?<br />I just got one and noticed that it did not come with instructions.<br>

Thanks up front.</p>

 

<p>I recently bought a lupo m67 color enlarger.<br>

I do B&W 90% but I just wanted to have the option for color.<br>

Where can I get the user manual?<br>

Or even do I need user manual? (I have never used a color enlarger, do I need to have the user manual or they all standard?<br>

How am I supposed to use 3 dials for color?<br>

As example, B&W enlargers are pretty straight forward and you do not need to have a user manual (I have a beseler 23.)<br>

Thanks,</p>

<p>did you try this? did it worked?</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I am having a strange problem with my new laptop.<br>

Silverfast does not work with it, I tried the same slverfast with my old PC and works like champ.<br>

However with the laptop, launch manager comes up and I chose silverfast, than another screen appers giving copule messages like "now silverfast is looking for scanners" etc, and disappears.<br>

I think it dies for some reason. I tried to remove most of the pheriperals especially usb ones) No good.<br>

has anyone else encountered such problem? if so what was the remedy?<br>

Regards,<br>

-b.</p>

<p>Tonight, while I am scanning my first roll of rollei retro 400, I encounter quite a few problems:<br>

1- after development, the negative become curved toward inside<br>

2- I got some circles on some of the scans</p>

<p>My questions:<br>

1- what I might have done wrong during the processing the film to cause this curviness? (This is not my first time, I normally use neopan 400 with D76)<br>

2- can those circles because fo this curviness?<br>

Thanks for the answers upfront,<br>

-b.</p>

<p>Lucas wrote:<br>

"It is cutting off the motor too soon so the camera will not completely cycle. Or it continues slightly too long and allows the motor to again release the barn doors, lift the the mirror and just start the filmadvance."<br>

I thik the latter, because I see that the mirror coming down and goes up again.<br>

Well, I got this one as is along with some lenses I wanted. I checked couple places and repairs go around $175-250. I can buy a replacment from KEH.com or ebay for that money. Therefore, I guess I will give it a try to fix by myself, unless I can find a reasonable price fix place. <br>

Therefore, where can I get a repair manual or ther dteails for the fix you are talking.</p>

<p>gear from different angle</p><div></div>

<p>back view of the problem</p><div></div>

<p>I just received my new batch of 'blad items. One of those is an ELM body. When everything was going OK with other items & lenses, I noticed, ELM does not fire at all. <br>

It was in a half cycle or so, because the second curtain was open and mirror was up.<br>

I checked battery (it is 9V adapter with battery) fuse etc. Everything was fine.<br>

Then I did the unjam trick by using the unjam screw driver. It helped and mirror came down and second curtain closed.<br>

However, after I press the shutter, everything went fine, camera fired, lens shutter fired but at the end of the cycle, mirror did not came down and second curtain did not close. Mirror act as it is coming down, comes halfway down but goes up again.<br>

Now camera is acting like that, (similar to S mode as far as I understand from the user manual, but I operate it at O mode.) it fires but mirror does not go down at any mode, any setting.<br>

If you use unjam screw driver and turn the screw, it brings back the mirro down but again as soon as I fired the camera mirror goes up and never returns.<br>

First I though broken spring or something but, since when I use the unjam screw driver, the mirror goes down and stays down till the next firing, it seems like something did not complete the full cycle or camera can not get into O setting from S and I need to reset the camera or something.<br>

One more thing I noticed, I can make the dial stay at S setting, It stops every other setting A, AS, O, SR but it does not stay at S.<br>

And last data point is, the back can not be mounted because the gear mechanism which advances film by engaging to back gears is not flat. (I will be posting pictures shortly.)</p>

<p>Has anyody seen this problem before?<br>

Any suggestions?</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>what is the side effect of longer than needed or too long fixing?</p>

<p>So, Andrea and Ronald, your take on this negatives and scans is:<br>

Blue base seems OK.<br>

Fixing seems to be OK.<br>

They look fine.<br>

Am I understanding correctly?</p>

<p>a 100% zoomed crop of the scan, if that helps</p><div></div>

<p>The fixer can be problem, because I had it for about 1.5 yrs ago (unopened bottle) When I try to mix it I noticed some residue left in the bottle. That might be weakening it.<br>

I already ordered a new one but, I also read, the fixer should still work from the other forums.<br>

Currently the time I use for fixer is about 3 1/2 to 4 mins.<br>

I know it is trial and error but from your experience, how much more time should I give it.</p>

<p><img id="smallDivTip" src="chrome://dictionarytip/skin/book.png" alt="" /></p>

<p>Reposting with a smaller size image to make it viewable inline</p>

<p>HI, here is picture of 2 films they are the same brand but 120 is processe by me, 35mm processed by a lab.</p><div></div>

<p>another scan from the same roll<br>

<img id="smallDivTip" src="chrome://dictionarytip/skin/book.png" alt="" /></p><div></div>

<p>Now I will post actual scans</p><div></div>

<p>HI, here is picture of 2 films they are the same brand but 120 is processe by me, 35mm processed by a lab.</p><div></div>

<p>HI,</p>

<p>I am a newbie, I just developed my second roll. They come out quite fine other than 2 things I noticed vs the rolls I developed at camera shop.<br>

My negatives are relative dull and they are more blueish.<br>

My environment:<br>

film: arista.edu 400 120<br>

developer: kodak d-76<br>

stop: kodak<br>

fixer: kodak rapid fixer<br>

wetting: kodak flo<br>

kodak hypo</p>

<p>Any idea why might this be happening?<br>

Regards,</p>

<p>-b.</p>

HI,

 

I have a D200 and I mistakenly dropped it while I was carrying it in a lowepro bag.

I seems OK but the battery got stuck in the battery chamber I can not get it out.

Any suggestions?

 

Regards,

Hi,

 

Thanks for all replies.

My question is more about using:

 

RB67 pro SD body

RB67 pro S revolving adapter

RB67 pro SD back

 

Are they compatible and what I am missing by not having Pro SD revolving adapter.

 

Regards,

Hi,

 

I have a B67 Pro-sd body with Pro-s revolving back, what functions will not work?

Does it worth to buy a Pro-sd revolving back?

 

Thanks and Regards,