Raymond W

<p>Thanks Dean and Eric:<br>

Yes Dean: We only hear about problems and often they are magnified. I have not gotten an F100 yet, but from the good things I've heard, I'd better get one quick.<br>

Eric: I think the F100 came out in 1999, so most of the F100 should have the updated fork.<br>

Thanks again,<br>

Raymond.</p>

<p>Thanks Glen fo the link, which has clear pictures of the rewind forks. This is very useful.<br>

I did search the archive, but the few hits I got didn't have the details or pictures.</p>

<p>There are a number of F100s available in the used market. Is there any easy way to tell if the rewind fork is the updated one? Can one determine from the serial number? Any info greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>Yep, Gary is right.<br>

Heard good things about David Yau in Toronto. </p>

<p>Have a chance for good condition F100 and F5. Just wonder if AF-S lenses can work on them or they take only the screwdrive AF lenses.<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Hi John:<br>

I think the Nikon Coolscan 5000 is the way to go. I got mine for the same reason as yours. I wanted to use my film cameras more. It took me a little while for some trial and error and learning, and I am able to get great results. Since I scan only the selected few from each roll, the tasks are not that big. Ideally the 9000 would be better as I can then scan my 6x6 negs, but the price is a bit high. <br>

It is interesting to see the NEFs from the scanner is much bigger than those from my D200. And it is fun to show people prints and let them guess if it is film or digital.</p>

<p>Thank you so very much, Bruce. This is very helpful. Certainly save me a lot of time.<br>

I was wondering if you find the Ice GEM (the grain control) helpful. And at what setting?</p>

<p>I am wondering how bad is the problem of purple fringing and CA of this lens when used on the new FX DSLRs. I was told that this lens, while great on film cameras, would have CA/purple fringing on FX DSLRs when shooting wide open. Searching through the archive, I have the impression that this is not a very significant problem, but again, I would like to hear from experienced users. Does one has to stop down a lot to avoid CA? <br>

Price wise, this seems great value compared with the 70-200 F2.8 G VR (I or II) if I can live without VR and use a tripod. </p>

<p>Please correct me if I am wrong, but I think we can do bulk conversion with ViewNX and with Capture NX, we can only do conversion one by one. </p>

<p>Thank you all for responding. Following your advice, I have just ordered an OpTech strap. Hope to get it soon. I will probably order one for my DSLR too. Reducing weight by 50% sounds great to me. Cheers and thanks again.</p>

<p>The rubber threads on the strap of my 500CM Classic are falling apart, producing small pieces of rubber which may get into the camera or whatever. Has this happened to anyone? What can I do about it besides trashing the strap? It got so bad that all I need is rub my finger on the strap the rubber would come off. Any info would be much appreciated.</p>

<p>My FM2n does have this contact problem affecting its metering. I need to turn the aperture ring of the attached lens back and forth (from smallest aperture to greatest apperture) multiple times to make it work again. I need to do thing from time to time (once every few months) or else the meter does funny things, including not lit up.<br>

HTH</p>

<p>Changing USB setting to Mass Storage solved the problem.<br>

Thanks again for all your help. This is one very important and helpful forum!</p>

 

<p>Thanks to everyone who answered.<br>

I will look into the different suggestions.</p>

 

<p>Hi All<br>

I shot both RAW and jpeg on my D200. When I connect my D200 via USB to my computer, I cannot see the NEF files on my memory card. Instead I see 2 copies of the same jpeg. But I can see and copy them when I plug the CF card onto the reader connected to my computer via USB.<br>

Am I missing something? How can I get the computer to see the NEF files when the D200 is connected?<br>

Any info greatly appreciated.</p>

 

<p>I was told that the best way is keep them standing on their mount end. It reduces the probability of having oil in the aperture blades. And we also need to avoid heat and moisture on them. I know there are special moisture controlled cabinets used in damp climates. Don't know how widespread those are used.<br>

HTH</p>

I understand your frustration, Graham. I still shoot film, a lot. But I have got my D200 and love everything about it. If

anything, it does help me learn photography faster. In addition, so much one can do with digital that one could not

do easily with film. Also I think my digital helps to improve my film work. That alone is well worth the effort. Lots to

learn, for sure. But I am a happy little teddy everytime I learn something. BTW, the folks on Photo.net are very

helpful. I just learned how to partially decolour a picture from the Digital Forum. And tonight, I am working on

moving the Rocky Mountains to my backyard, digitally of course.

Thanks everyone for the info. I will try both ways. Cheers Raymond

I am wondering if there is any special software or methods to selectively de-color parts of a picture. I am thinking of

situation where the subject is not regular in shape and I would like to make the background black and white and

keep the subject in color.

 

An example of the subject would be a plant with small leaves.

 

Any information is greatly appreciated.

Thanks Evan:

 

I am in Edmonton, Canada. We used to have a Hassey repair person in town (not anymore), but his verdict was that there were no parts available and it was not worthwhile repairing it. So my 1000F just sits there. Its higher shutter speeds still work but the slow ones are shot. Also, I accidently dented its shutter, although it still moves and there is no light leak. I don't think there is anyone who would repair it with a reasonable cost, even if there are parts.

 

Cheers

Raymond

Thanks Ulrik for your kind offer. But if I trade away my Dallmeyer, I would lose half the reasons to have a 1000F.

Cheers. Raymond

A related question: Will my Hassy 1000F lenses fit on a Kiev body?

I have a Tessar 80, Sonnar 250 and a Dalmeyer 500cm, but my 1000F body is touch and go.

Any info is greatly appreciated.

Regarding Q.G.'s comment:

 

"And conversely, the old backs, the ones having this catch, needing to be tripped by that pin on 1000-series camers, should not (!) be used on later Hasselblad cameras.

If you do anyway, the first time you do you hear a sound more familiar to Kiev users... The back will then still work, but with internal damage."

 

I am a bit concerned about this. I wonder what kind of internal damage this is. Is that something that would cause problems later?

 

Any info greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

I would like to add that I have recently purchased a Hassy lens from David. The price was very reasonable and the service was excellent too.

Thanks David, Jurgen and Rob for the information. This is very useful.

Much appreciated.

 

Raymond