Raymond W

<p>+1<br>

Very strange. <br>

Nicola became Sam.<br>

How could this happen?</p>

<p>Hi Niola: <br>

If you like bugs and wonder what else you can do, I would suggest trying out Helicon Focus, the software for focus stacking. That would get your bug sharp from eyes to tail. My macro shots are never the same since I have it. Even my non-macro shots can have fore and background sharp where I could not before. It is probably cheaper than any macro attachment to your lens or a bellow or a focusing rail.<br>

Google it and you can find lots of information. Have a look. </p>

 

<p>Yes I use old technology to take digital pictures. I still love my D200, although I use only the lo ISOs. And some software would not even support it. It feels more solid and have more features than my D7000. But the oldest technology is still film cameras. I use film then scan them with a Nikon Coolscan to go digital midstream in the workflow. In this way, it is full frame, large pixel count and gives digital pictures. <br>

The latest Plutak OpticFilm 120 can even do 120 film scan at $2000 (Still have to see the reviews). That is cheaper than many advanced modern DSLR.</p>

<p>Hi Michael:<br>

The VRI will probably have vignetting at the corners when used with the D700. That is why they make the VRII.<br>

Check and see if that vignetting bothers you.<br>

Raymond</p>

<p>Am I old? Not in my mind and not at my heart. But I was in grade school when Patti Page was at the top of the Chart. </p>

<p>I still shoot film. Just finished a roll in my Konica Auto S2 shooting streets in -10 degree C temperature yesterday and started on a new roll of 120 TMAX in my 500C/M for table top shots last night. I still have a wet darkroom with 3 enlargers. </p>

<p>I also do digital. Today, I played all day with my Nikon D7000 doing macro shots and focus-stacking with Helicon Focus.</p>

<p>So much to do, so little time!<br>

Raymond</p>

<p>Thanks to everyone for replying.<br>

The compatibility link is really useful.<br>

Thanks Michael.</p>

<p>Just wonder if anyone has encountered any problems running CS5.1 on Windows 8. The Adobe website seems to say we need CS5.5 or CS6 for Windows 8. Searching the archive I found people putting CS5 on Windows 8 machines. Just wonder if it is totally compatible and if there are any hickups.<br>

Any experience to share would be greatly appreciated.<br>

TIA.</p>

 

<p>I vote for the Konica Auto S2. Great for B&W. <br>

Great lens, simple to operate, quiet.<br>

Built like a tank. Just love it.<br>

I have 3 :-) </p>

<p>Hi Reuben: <br>

Good points.<br>

I would add exercising the camera by firing the shutter without film in it at different speeds. I usually put a lens in it if it is an SLR. I put the lens at minimum aperture (F16, 22, whatever) and fire at least 10 times at each shutter speed. (Would someone tell me please if I need to do more times?) This IMHO is better than the occasional roll that goes through it, which I do anyway. The minimum aperture is so that the lens aperture blades can be exercised too.<br>

Also I would move the aperture rings so that whatever contact they have inside the camera would be exercised. For my Nikon FM2N, I find that I need to do this from time to time or else the meter would not work properly.<br>

I assumed that you are storing the cameras after the foam zeals and mirror bumpers are all intact, otherwise please check.<br>

HTH<br>

Raymond</p>

<p>For me, the worn-off novelty is not an issue. But the horrible prices they pay at estate sales keep me thinking about unloading before that day comes. The idea of a supersized casket so that I can bring my cameras along was rejected.</p>

<p>Yes, Ian Gordon. I encounter that often. Another common comment would be: "Wow, that is an oldie!!!" I would respond "Yep, I am an oldie!" . And recently when another fellow with an 801s saw me with my 801s, we raised our fists and said in unison: " It is film. It has got to be film!!"</p>

<p>Thanks Mike and everyone for a nice thread. I cannot say it brings back memories because I was not into photography (audio/radio electronics was my only hobby) until the late 1980s. But it is certainly a nice trip back in time. So this was what it was like then. Absolutely fascinating!</p>

<p>I have been using a couple of professional labs here in western Canada for printing. One I use for color prints from 6x6 film and the other I use for digital. <br>

For the digital lab, my home computer monitor is calibrated with the lab's printer and files are submitted on line. I will pick up the prints when ready. Works quite well and I save myself the trouble of maintaining a printer.<br>

The same lab can do all sorts of fancy mounting. But I have a number of frames made for home display and cut my own matts to mount them.</p>

<p>Thanks JDM for the ice cream cone story. <br>

It would be a disaster without the protective filter. It also says to me: stay away from kids with ice cream cone and a muscular father. I can see the logic of not using a protective filter on great lenses, but I always have one on just to feel safe. <br>

If Amazon has a 77mm MRC B&W for $70, go for it. You may want to check out an internet store called Maxsaver.<br>

Raymond</p>

<p>I went to the ?Bay and got my B+W 77mm MRC 010 #58460 filter for around $60. I have been happy with them. In fact, I got a whole bunch of B&W, including the Kassemann Polarizer from the same supplier. <br>

If it is counterfeit they did an excellent job down to the package box and the description sheet inside. Is there any way to tell if the thing is counterfeit?<br>

JDM, please tell us about the ice cream cone. Many of us have not heard it. Please. Please.</p>

<p>Hi Mark:<br>

With the FE2 and F3, you would have all the F3 generation of Nikon bodies. The FM3A is nice, but not of the same generation and a bit expensive. Yes, I would get some nice AIS Nikkor lenses and have lots of fun.<br>

Cheers<br>

Raymond</p>

<p>Nice collection Mark!<br>

I would add the FE2 and F3HP to complete the family portrait.</p>

<p>Hi Chris:<br>

I have the combo and it works fine on the D7000. You have an effective 420mm F5.6 set up. Just one possibly stupid question: Were you trying to AF on something too close? </p>

<p>I guess what Mervyn said was it costed 2 years' salary before and a whole lot less now. I paid big dollars for my Hassy set over 10 years ago and now people are telling me it worths little. Even thieves breaking in a photographer's house would leave his Hassy alone, I was told. But as long as I enjoy using it and not consider selling it, I don't see the drop in value as anything significant at all, other than I can get more Hassy gear cheaper.</p>

<p>You can use Adobe's DNG converter to convert D7000 NEF to DNG easily. I do that to import files into PS Element 8. Hope this helps.</p>

<p>Nice pictues Michael:<br>

Make me feel like using my OM1n too.<br>

Just curious. What scanner did you use?</p>

<p>Hi Steve:<br>

You can get a replacement off eBay, or try the following link.<br>

<a href="http://www.bocaphoto.com/products/new/nikon/nikonacc.htm">http://www.bocaphoto.com/products/new/nikon/nikonacc.htm</a><br>

HTH<br>

Raymond</p>

<p>Also if you are thinking of upgrading to CS5, check and see if they still have the special for PSE7,8,9 licence owners. I took advantage of the special offer and got CS5 for $299, followed shortly by another free upgrade to CS5.1 (extended). I heard they do this from time to time.</p>

<p>Sorry Elliot: My bad. You are right. PSE8 cannot do D7000 Raw via ACR. What I did was convert the RAW to DNG and open with ACR 6.2 of PSE8.<br>

Sorry to have confused you. It is signs of old age on my part.</p>

<p>All you need is to upgrade ACR. I have PSE8 and D7000 RAW files can be loaded without problems. You just download the ACR file from ADOBE and put it in your PSE8/pluggin directory.</p>