raczoliver

This may be basic, but how would one use studio strobes (or any flash for that matter) with electronic shutter? Is there a minimum sync speed?

Indeed, the specs are more impressive than I thought they would be, and the price is lower. Not that I'm going to run out and buy one any time soon, but it is reassuring that you get more and more bang for your buck in camera gear. The 24-120 f/4 lens is very attractive too, significantly more useful than a 24-105 in my opinion.

It's interesting how announcements used to come out of the blue, with only rumors and speculations available in advance, but now first they announce the development of a product nearly a year or so ahead of time, then after months of teasing videos and intentional "leaking" of more and more information, the next step is to announce the time and date of the announcement. To me this is almost comical, but maybe I only feel that way because I'm not the target audience of a Z9-type camera.

I've played with this a couple of times. I got an adapter that allows me to mount my old Bronica medium format lenses onto Nikon F mount bodies (I use the D850), and it allows a shift of up to 11mm I think, to make use of the larger image circle of the MF lens. It's fun, and I got nice big pictures, but practically I'm not sure I got more resolution than I would have with a sharp dedicated Nikon lens. I did not bother to fix the lens in position and shift the sensor behind it, rather just put the camera on a tripod and let photoshop deal with the very insignificant parallax error I got from shifting the lens.

Probably because they feel they wouldn't sell many. If I understand correctly, the 28mm lens that is available together with the Zfc is a special edition of the 28mm f/2.8 lens that will be available at a later time. Similar to what they did with the 50mm f/1.8 lens at the introduction of the Df, except this time the "regular" edition comes after the special edition. I think Nikon's idea is that they're not going to design dedicated lenses for the limited and shrinking DX crowd, instead they are going to make some affordable FX lenses that can be sold to every Nikon Z user, DX or FX. If the lens is small, light, and cheap enough, I don't see why it's an issue that it can be used on FX as well.

I wouldn't know which one is which, because I never had either of those lenses, but in the first pair I prefer the bokeh of the second shot, and in the second pair the second shot again seems a little sharper. If those (the two no. 2 shots) are from the same lens, then that's the lens I prefer.

I just recently started posting in the Nikon Wednesday thread, and at first I thought the 1000 pixel limit must have been an outdated rule, so I am guilty of having posted much larger files. I will of course abide by the rules in the future, but I find the image size requirements rather small when 4k monitors are a commonplace. I think three images per person is sufficient, if I have more that I like, I'll just choose which ones I post more wisely. That being said, I don't mind if others post more.

D850, AF-S 18-35mm F/3.5-4.5G, five-shot panorama: D850, AF-S 70-200mm F/4G:

So how did you get it to display your local time zone? Mine is still not making sense.

Robocopy is quite robust (it stands for "robust file copy"), simple, and free. It's a command line tool included with Windows, but several GUIs are available. The "robocopy /?" command in the command prompt or power shell will list all its functions, but for backups, perhaps the " /mir" switch is the most commonly used. Read up on it a little before using it, because it is not foolproof, but a very powerful and simple tool.

As someone flying airplanes between continents for work, I can't even begin to imagine how messy it would be if we didn't have universal time. Whether people like what it's referenced to is a different story.

Time is very much universal. I agree, instead of using some random point on the Earth facing away from the Sun as a reference, we could time stamp pnet posts using the time elapsed since the Big Bang, or whatever was the start of the universe. I personally have a a bigger problem with the reference used as the start of a year, since January 1st has no astronomical significance at all. I think we should start the year on the day of the December solstice instead, but then people on the southern hemisphere could still object to that and suggest we use the June solstice instead.

It seems to be displaying UTC+1 for me, which is not my local time zone. Would you prefer UTC instead of GMT?

20 years ago with my F80 I'd always get happy when I got an extra frame or two on the nominally 36 exposure roll of film, but once on a trip when I got to 40 frames and the camera still wouldn't rewind, my smile faded, since I realized I had been shooting without film in the camera the whole time.

That sounds very odd. The only explanation I can think of is that you did not see the subject clearly enough in the small viewfinder, but once the picture was taken, the model's posture could be seen clearer on the much larger LCD screen. Since the image you see in the viewfinder goes through the same lens that is used to take the picture, there should be no difference in perspective between what you see and what you get. The only difference there could be is in crop, if the viewfinder does not have a 100% coverage (which I don't know if the D600 has).

I am having a problem with the joystick on the D850. I set it up so that pressing it selects and activates a specific focus mode, but often when I try to press it, I inadvertently nudge it in one direction, and the selected focus point starts moving around instead of activating AF with the already selected point. It seems like the joystick is very easily displaced from the center position, and if I apply the slightest sideways force on it while trying to press it, the focus point starts moving, sometimes even if I pay special attention to avoiding it. Maybe I just need more practice, but as a result of this, often I will rather change the AF mode by pressing the dedicated button on the left of the lens mount and rotating the command dial, thus negating the convenience of the joystick.

At least it's not priced $1000 higher than what it is worth, like the Df was at its introduction.

Nikon D700, AF-S 24-120 F/4G ED VR

I would certainly shoot raw, and adjust white balance in post. You may not be inclined to do much post processing, but if you use Nikon's own free software (NX Studio), it will read all your picture control settings and use those as default, then you can change only the white balance. Another workaround, if all else fails, is converting the picture to black and white. No white balance problems to worry about.

You can either erase the layer directly using the eraser tool (not the brush), or paint using the brush tool on a mask. If you choose the latter, you have to select the mask icon next to the layer by clicking on it before you start painting, otherwise you'll be painting on the layer itself. One obvious advantage of doing it on a layer mask is that you can always paint parts back with white if you have gone too far with it.

People often refer to the f/4 zoom lenses as a compromise. In a way, every lens is a compromise, but I always thought that way more of the f/2.8 zooms. They are quite big, heavy and expensive, and the aperture is only big-ish. They're not as convenient and portable as a zoom lens with a smaller maximum aperture, and not as fast as a prime lens. I personally chose the path of having a couple of moderate aperture zoom lenses combined with some fast primes.

Unfortunately I can't say that myself. My folder structure is year/country/city (I used to do country/year, but the archiving process was more complicated that way. Now I can just move everything but the last couple of years to external drives, while before I had to move the older folders within each country separately when my internal hard drive started filling up.), and whenever I click on a year with the option to show pictures in subfolders enabled, the program crashes. In fact, more than a few hundred pictures will overload it. I have an i9900 processor, 32GB RAM, and the pictures are stored on an NVMe SSD, so hardware should really not be a problem. Otherwise I really like some of its features, and I can get very pleasing results in relatively few steps with this program, but the constant crashing and the relatively unsophisticated filtering (for example I haven't been able to filter by image city, country, or some other metadata fields) makes it hard for me to use it as an organizational tool.

I think only Capture One Express is available free of charge for Sony, which has reduced functionality: Free photo editing software for Sony The same deal is available for Fuji cameras as well. They are charging $199 or $14/month for the full-featured Sony-only version. Buy Capture One (for Sony)

It's a Nikon software, downloadable free of charge, so I don't find it surprising at all that it only works with Nikon raw files. Think if it as an included "accessory" for your Nikon camera. If they make the software good enough, it could also serve as a motivation to stay with Nikon when a camera upgrade is due and someone otherwise would be contemplating a switch to a different system.

Looks nice, but my problem is that it doesn't read metadata from the sidecar files created by Lightroom or Capture one. Would I have to enter all keywords, ratings/color tags and IPTC metadata all over again for my whole collection in order to be able to filter and search by those in NX Studio? Those data transfer just fine between Lightroom and Capture one for the most part.