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jonathan_reynolds
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Posts posted by jonathan_reynolds
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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9717902-lg.jpg" alt="" width="844" height="577" /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9717901-lg.jpg" alt="" width="844" height="577" /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9717851-lg.jpg" alt="" /></p>
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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9717874-lg.jpg" alt="" width="844" height="583" /></p>
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<p>CPeter Jørgensen wrote:</p>
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<p>B&W silver prints start with a paper base coated with several layers of chemicals that react to light and then change density when immersed in other chemicals, producing a range of black to white reflections which, when measured in the best testing labs can only be broken down into 13 distinctive "ranges" or tones. [Most film itself captures more than 250 tones, by the way.]<br>
Even Ansel Adams drops the true Zones #1 (totally black) and #13 (totally white) from his target range of printed tones, using a formula only an artist and printmaker of his experience and education can completely understand. So right there more than 200 tones (or Zones) reproduced by the film are eliminated from any possibility of being distinguishable from one another on the chemically developed paper print.</p>
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<p>Is this intended as a joke?</p>
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<p>I <strong>do</strong> like the sewn-on camera pockets, Brad! Must make for very discrete shooting.</p>
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<p>I especially like the focus direction arrows on the lens; that's something I've thought about before, that every manually focused lens should be marked like that for ease of use.</p>
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<p>Joe, I'm a bit puzzled why why you need them? It's always the same, unless you regularly swap between Nikons and Leicas, say. Likewise the aperture ring.</p>
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<p>Oh damn, I've just read Tony's post. End of euphoria.</p>
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<p>Erik, thanks so much for the link!! I will order some. Now to explore replacements for the Agfa processing...</p>
<p>Gary, I honestly didn't realise there were such legends, so if there are, they only convince me that my impressions are right. Actually I did try 400VC, but only once. I'll give it another go, likewise Ektar 100 (thanks, Wayne!). I don't quite understand what you mean by 'blocked up colours', though I'd like to understand if you can explain further or give an example. I'm not averse to change or improvement - it's just that we've had more pleasing shots with Agfa VISTA than with any other film. </p>
<p>I have a theory that print films have to match the glass you use. Agfa VISTA suits my (manual) Nikon lenses, but Kodak Gold suits my Rollei better. Anyone concur with this?</p>
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<p>I used to appreciate the characteristics (especially rich colour) of Agfa VISTA printed on Agfa paper, for family snapshots. Since it was taken from us, I've tried Kodak GOLD and a couple of Fuji films, printed on Kodak and Fuji papers, respectively - but have been disappointed by (respectively) yellowish and bluish colours.</p>
<p>Can anyone recommend a close alternative to VISTA, colour-wise?</p>
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<p>Asim, DO IT!! Otherwise all we will ever see will be glossy space-age views of Dubai City, and the lives of those who built it will be forgotten. As you suggest, you will need to make sure your project is archived somewhere, but many of us would be interested right now.<br>
You know, I'm surprised there isn't a subscription PJ ezine yet. Surely many who come to this forum would be devotees?</p>
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<p>Fortunately I was able to use my M6 straight out of the box.</p>
<p>Interesting guy. Not really a handyman though, is he, Brad?</p>
<p>Photo 1 is good. I really look forward to the rest.</p>
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<p>I'm afraid I don't have the experience to help you choose, but my sincere advice would be: Don't buy ANYTHING until you are completely clear about it all! Meanwhile, buy a developing tank and enjoy your Leica, which is a superb tool.</p>
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<p>100 images per project out of 41,000 = 0.2% hit rate.<br>
100 images per project out of 18,000 = 0.5% hit rate.<br>
Sounds reasonable for someone with high standards to meet, but it's a daunting amount of blank canvas. (Good thing he isn't a painting in oils!)</p>
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<p>Lens hoods. I think you might get all of these suggestions within your budget.</p>
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<p>Mark,</p>
<p>I think they are terrific, and at first I couldn't really understand what you were worried about. On reflection, I think I may now understand your anxiety that in a few years they might look dated or gimicky. I think they already look dated because of the way you have handled or post-processed the colours, but I also feel this suits the beaten-up subject matter. The subject would have been less sympathetically served by 'modern' colour treatment as in your colour fisherman portrait, for instance. I also like the square format. Even if you took all the photos in 2x3 format, you've made some darn' nice re-compositions in the square frame.</p>
<p>Any 'grain' you've added doesn't worry me, at least on screen. I did find my eyes were bothered by the blurry foreground detail in those shots with a relatively blank foreground. And I'm not fully enamoured of the vignetting, which does seem in danger of being gimicky. It like it to some extent - it really suits the square format - but I wonder if I'd like it more if it was less obvious.</p>
<p>The shot of the ox standing in the byre is just wonderful. I'd love to see shots of those beasts working too.</p>
<p>All in all, it promises to be a great project. Good luck!</p>
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<p>Well, if no-one else is going to root for Tom Higgins' shot, I will!<br>
Beautiful colours, Tom, excellent framing and just the right DOF - really leads the eye in.</p>
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<p>I find it more a matter of necessity than philosophy!</p>
<p>In general, the film and paper combination produce a beautiful and natural gradation of tones, and I have little wish to change that. However, it results from the complimentary characteristic curves of the paper and negative.</p>
<p>I usually find that I must make many adjustments to the scan file to persuade it to look like a straight darkroom print. This is partly to substitute for the characteristic curve of the printing paper, but especially because I've been careful not to clip highlights when scanning, and this results in a distorted tonal curve (at least in the setup I use - Canon FS4000US with Vuescanan and operated by an idiot)(me). I also need to restore sharpness lost in scanning. I regard those adjustments as corrective rather than creative.</p>
<p>However, I may also want to loose distracting shadow details, or boost mid-tone contrast where the original lighting was flat, or squash in the tones of the sky. In the darkroom you would commonly do these minor creative tweaks by choosing the paper grade and exposure, perhaps progressing to flashing or different paper developers. I don't see any reason not to do equivalent things to a scan file.</p>
<p>In the darkroom, I may also do a little burning and dodging because uncontrollable light conditions out of doors can create visually distracting effects. So far, I do burning and dodging rarely with scan files because I find it such a pain on a computer.</p>
<p>In either darkroom or lightroom, beautiful light seems to me an elusive thing. Where light quality is what I chiefly wanted to capture, I find I have to almost excavate it from the negative.</p>
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<p>I've seen many threads on PN about scanner choice. My question is specifically about the best scanner for B/W film, short of paying out loads of money for an Imacon. <br>
Special considerations. I only want to scan once, so want 4000 dpi at least. I have used and still use Tri-X a lot, and my experience is that this scans poorly on an Epson 4000US. My other stand-by Delta 100 shows up very uneven lighting in the same scanner. I'm aware that Minolta eventually adopted a properly diffused light source, which is attractive - but how does it compare in practice with more popular scanners like Nikon's Coolscan? Oh, and I'm a Mac user, in case that makes any difference.<br>
Thanks for any advice, especially if you have experience of more than one model with B/W, or if you can post examples.</p>
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<p>Mike, I use the exact same set-up and have no problems with colour neg. Something must be set wrong - check through all the Vuescan menus.</p>
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<p>Actually, Walt, that's not correct about the Digisix. You click a button to read the light level, then manually transfer this to the dial, where you can read all the combinations of aperture and shutter speed.</p>
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<p>I've never seen a flexible meter, though. :-)</p>
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<p>Don't get a Digisix if you need glasses for reading - the numbers are minute.</p>
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<p>By way of encouragement, Mat, someone once said to me that every Leica ever made is either still operational or could readily be made so. Hyped, of course, but basically true.</p>
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<p>Mat, sorry to hear of your trouble. You don't say where you have been sending the camera for repair, but as you'll note above my experience of Leica (UK) service has been extremely positive.</p>
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<blockquote>
<h3>Rangefinder view is independent from focal length of the lens used</h3>
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<p>Talk about making a virtue out of a necessity! Let's face it, these are quirky cameras, but no more annnoying than most digitals.</p>
<p>I think Leica's 1980s advertising hype had it right: concentration on the essentials. That's what sold it to me. I finally succumbed 7 years ago, and I have no regrets whatsoever.</p>
M8.2 digital vs. M7 film
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted