goldfish

JAMES..You might be right ,but I believe that light leak could effect parts of the film not the whole negatve +I developed 2 films "120" and both have the same problem .

JOHN..I used to load the film in the changing bag and it works great but with APX400 the negative as I mentioned very dark even the both sides of the negative were not transparent.

well..I just finished devoloping Apx400 with D-76 "stock" 10 MIN @ 20

deg ,UNfortunately the result wasn't good "black negative""ALTHOUGH I FOLLOWED

THE Massive Dev Chart ,I CAME UP WITH BLACK NEGATIVE" !! any feedback would be

appreciated .thanks

Thanks everyone for your help,what about time recommendation for the photo-Flo "1-2 minute ! am I righ? and should I wipe the Flo up the film or leave it till become dry ?

How much photo-flo do I need for 500 ml ?

Michael.this is agood point about reels being wet by photo flo ,Iused to do it but after reading your comment I'll stop from now on .many thanks

Regarding fixer ,I used Tmax fixer (1:4)liquid ,7 minutes ,as for the developer and regarding what "ILFORD" recommendation said 8:30 with ID-11 and "REDUCE STANDARD DEVELOPMENT TIME BY UP 15% IN ROTARY PROCESSOR WITHOUT A PRE-RINSE BECAUSE OF THE CONTINUOUS AGITATION GIVE IN THESE PROCESSORS." and I did what they recommended , nice shot LARRY :),regards

George,many thanks for the assistance.regards

LARRY ,I didn't presoak for short period developing "as some of mine advised me!" that's why it came bluish ? what do thing?

fixer is about 7 min and I used ID-11 along this month and it did perfect with Tmax ,agfa "apx" but with FP4+ as I mentioned "bluish cast".

yesterday I used FP4+(120) with ID-11 (stock) rotary processing ,7 min @ 20

degree , the film came with bluish cast "not transparent" !! any Idea ?

Thanks for all your comments and assistance <JEAN MARC> photographer's websites this is what am looking for >many thanks

Am looking for landscapes & portraits 6x6 sites , can any one recommend such

things .thanks

I will develop APX100 "120 " & I have both ID-11 & XTOL "unfortunately NO

rodinal ", which one do you recommend ? 1:1 or stock ? thanks

Thanks for all your comments and helpful suggestions,actually I made two experiment one with 1:1 another with stock and after scanning them it seemed that stock is better regarding what I mentioned befor "tones & finegrain" & I'll make another films to make it sure .regards

I'm going to develop Delta 100 "Ilford" with ID-11 , regarding tones &

finegrane result which way is better 1:1 OR stock .thanx alot

I'm usuing E56 with 80 lense for close up & macro things ..my question

is "should I foucs at 0,9 or infinity sign to get the maximum DOF ..many thanks

Any good labs in vienna for slide processing? regards

thanks alot for the usefull informations.. I checked the filter and I found these letters " PL " & that means its " liear" as AKIRA said.regards

I just received "HOYA POLARIZING FILTER" and it doesn't mention whether its

liear "which I want" or circualr ..any one has a practical answer..thanks

alot.

Xtol "kodak" & "ID-11 "ilford" many thanks

I just want to know that am doing the right thing..I used to develop 2 rolls

of 120 with "350 mm chemical & am using CPE-2 jobo ,,What do you thing!

MANY THANKS.

any idea where can I find this dev "I tried ADORAMA & b&h and it seem out of

stock" >>one more Q pls "what's the best DEV for APX 100 " many thanks.

Thanks for all your comments ,,what I meant is XTOL"powder & ID11"Ilford "powder,and as the instruction said 'Mixed it with room temperature water & make sure its comoletely dissolved, But it doesn't mention HOW LONG SHOULD I WAIT BEFORE DEVELOPING MY FILMS ?.REGARDS