kymtman

I have purchased one of the best classic meters that I have ever owned, a Gossen Luna-Pro. I did not have the

funding to buy an adapter to replace the Mercury batteries. Rather I took the unit apart and inserted a silicon

diode to reduce the voltage to 2.7v from 3.1v from the battery carriage to the + on the circuit board. This unit

is tack on with my Nikon D2X. This is my third one that I have converted with great success. The batteries needed

to replace the mercury batts will be silver oxide 1.55v (2ea). If anyone has a luna pro in need of conversion I

would gladly

do the conversion for you. The service is free if you pay for the parts. My email is rtincher@prtcnet.org

I am retired and need something to do to keep me from going cuckoo.

It takes me about 30 minutes to make the conversion, and it is much better that most of the adapters offered

today, and cost you a lot less for sure. You will be expected to pay shipping both ways. The reason why I posted

to this forum is most of the classic cameras are without correct meters. Merry Christmas!!

Ronald Tincher

I have a close friend that I called this morning and ask him if he could put a Schottky diode in my Gossen

Luna-Pro to reduce the voltage to receive the Silver oxide 1.55v batteries. He, being a TV repairman, said to

bring it in and he would take a look at it. He saw that it took two 1.34v batts , took out his calculator, went

to the bin and brought back a Schottky diode to do the job. After careful observation we removed the three

plastic plugs on the back that held the back cover on and found four screws. Removing them exposed the circuit

board and the battery lead. He un-soldered the lead and soldered in plaace a diode and then soldered the battery

lead to the other end of the diode. With two new silver oxide batteries he checked the voltage and it was 1.35

volts. Put it all back together and brought it home to check its accuracy. With my Nikon D2x, Sekonic spot meter

a gray card and my old trusted cheapie light meter, I checked it with the Luna Pro and Lo-n-behold it was tack

on. I told my friend "Steve" that I would let everyone know where they could send their meters if they wanted to

have them fitted for the 1.55v batteries. If anyone is interested let me know at rtincher@prtcnet.org

The price for the hack is $30. This has been a public informational announcement.

Classic? Its a Bronica S2A, Hassy 500, Mamiya RB67, Leica M3, Ikonta, Contax III, Kodak Retina and a few others that delivers extremely sharp images on a variety of substrates. I shoot digital, but I prefer film anytime. You get quality products from a $350 camera that will cost $20,000 in digital to achieve. I don't have the later.

As long as us O'folks are around so will be film, although we are loosing some choices now an then.

The film backs I can do without any trouble. I cut small strips from the seals of 35mm film canisters. If good enough for film, it's good enough for film backs. Also its free from any walmart store (film processing dept). They will give you tons of empty canisters at the end of their shift. I open them up and peel the velvet like material from the film opening ends and about a dozen strips will do the back. I use contact cement that never dries. Stays pliable if you ever need to re-do.

 

Guess i'tt send the body for re seals to an expert. Know of anyone?

Never owned one of these Mamiya RB67 boat anchors before and I need help replacing the body seals, properly. I

understand that you can remove the mirror and replace the damper foam, but how? Where can I find help for this

procedure?

Thanks in advance,

Ron Tincher

Well, at last a temporary fix. I noticed that the curtain was partially covering the focus screen. I took and spread my index and middle fingers and caught the edge of the curtain brass with my fingernails and gently, very gently pushed the curtain back to the cocked position. Then I tripped the shutter release and lo n behold it released. I ran about twenty more cock n release without any errors. FYI only try this if you have succesfully repaired 8 or 10 cameras.

I have recently purchased a Bronica S2A which worked well on the first couple of rolls. Today I took the back off

and cranked the shutter active and when I triggered the shutter it did not sound right, kind of weak. I tried to

crank again and it is locked!

It would not wind on. Checked and found the curtains in the cocked position, it did now release and the shutter

release won't have any effect on it. Is this a major issue or is it like the Hassy and won't free up without some

help.

How do I correct this problem. Any one with a repair manual to sell a copy? I may have to send it for service.

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.Ron

Just ran a couple of rolls of film through it and today I took the film back off and cranked and cocked the

shutter and it sounded as though it did not completely release. Went to wind again and it will not budge. Anyone

had this to happen before?

I could send it to Rick Oleson, but I think he has slowed down with his repairs. Anyone have a repair manual

that they would make me a copy for a reasonable price?

contact me at rtincher@hotmail.com Thanks in advance. Ron

It is quite easy to retrofit a Kiev viewfinder with meter on a Bronica S2A. I did one myself in about 15 minutes.

Take the plate from the bottom of the viewfinder and place it where it will sit on the S2A and mark the latch

position. You will need to shave about 1/8th inch from the back end of the plate and cut a notch about a quarter

of inch on the front end of the plate. I used a file and shaved a small amount at a time. The plate will sit on

top of the back of the existing catch near the film holder. with the plate in place, I drilled a very small hole

near the film holder on each side of the end and screwed two small screws to hold the back of the plate in place.

That is about it when you replace the plate. when you place the back end of the viewfinder, the end near the film

holder, between the existing catch and the screws you put in and press the front down it will click into place. I

would advise you to try the plate first to make sure it is not too tight.

 

I have a machine shot to make me some spare dark slides for the S2 and S and S2A film backs. If you need one let

me know. rtincher@hotmail.com

Good luck and happy shooting.

Your focus problem could possible be deteriorated foam under your focus screen. Seems to be a common problem with the S2, S2A. Not really a big job to repair. I have replaced several myself. If you shoot with a large DOF you may not notice the focus as being much of a problem. When you shoot wide open and say speed of 500 then the focus becomes more apparent.

I have a Metz 45 CT-1, the old model with high voltage, and I use it with my Canon 20D and my Nikon D2X. Both cameras will withstand sync voltages up to 250volts according to their manuals. I measured the voltage of the CT-1 with an accurate meter and read 100 volts, to make sure things would go right. They did!

I use an Epson 3000 and Apollo inkjet transparent film. I print two copies. one I print with a horizontal flip so that when I place them together the ink side of each one will touch the other so there is no separation of the inks. Work great for me.

I am going to purchase some Accuart transparencies and try that. They say it will give great blacks.

The bluest sky is due north rendering the best light for portraits.

I have seen a lot of superb photos here that would make wonderful digital

backgrounds if offered for sale. I would like to buy an assorted collection of

outdoor photos in say 8x10 @ 300 dpi on CD. I will pay a reasonable price for

the collection.

I am shooting Chroma Key to eliminate the heavy cost of muslin backdrops one has

to buy. I am looking for photos of places throughout the world. I bought three

CDs from FXhome and wasn't too well pleased with them.

 

Here is a sample photo shot on the green screen.

This camera, as far as i'm concerned, comes as close as you can get to a

Hasselblad 500 as far as the images are concerned. Not many people show their

work with this camera. Could be the cause of the focus problem (easily fixed) If

there any of you guy with images you'd like to share it would be greatly

appreciated. I have a couple posted in my S2 folder. Take a look;

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=783796

This camera is up for bids on the big E. I have a S2A that I will keep.

It is always a pleasure to see work done by others. Thanks guys

Has anyone here opened a film back for repair on a Bronica S2 or S2a. Does any

of the leather have to be removed to access screws? Any info would be

appreciated. The film back will not catch the frame, instead it will allow you

to advance the complete roll. Must be a catch spring or something inside broken.

Does not rattle or anything. It is a 6x4.5 back. It is not the camera because

other backs work perfect on the camera. Thanks in advance.

Mike; when I load my Kiev 4 I use scotch tape and tape it to the spool of an empty. I first tape to the end of the film and leave an inch or so sticking out, then carefully align the tape to the spool and press the tape to the spool. This way when I rewind it will get tight to rewind when I have reached the beginning of the film. Now I don't have to go fishing in the dark for the film and no need to pop the canister. If you don't process your own then the photo lab is well pleased that they don't have to go fishing for the film.

I just received my two S2 cameras and all its glory accessories which weighed

about 40 pounds. I haven't burned any film as of yet, spent all day replacing

foam in the focus screen area and checking focus and finally everything looks

great. Everything seems to work as it should. Put a blank roll through it and I

will shoot high heaven tomorrow. I would like to see some photos that you all

have taken in the past to verify what good things I have heard about the Nikkor

P 2.8/75 lens for this camera. I also received a Nikkor Q 105mm with a shutter

built in. Kind of odd to have two shutters on one camera.

 

All things set aside, with what I have seen so far, I think that I will really

like this shooter ( a little heavy but who cares) I don't believe that I will

keep both cameras but offering one for sale in the classified later on.

I may adapt a Kiev 88 metered prism later.

 

Post some photos or links for me please!

You can also use free material. Open a 35mm film canister and peel out the dark felt with the self stick edge. A freebee

Received my Pentacon Six and shot a couple of rolls, the first was fine and the

second roll overlapped every frame. The photos were excellent and this one

depicts: http://www.photo.net/photo/6495702

I knew that the P6 had this trouble and they say it is in the way that you load

the film. Feel free to comment on the camera and its functions. I would

appreciate any help! Thanks

How young should a child be to start training. This child can't say but a few

words yet she can hum a tune. I started to introduce her to the piano when she

was only six months with good response. I will continue to let her enjoy the

keys as long as I am able. She is now one and one half years and loves to search

out notes that are harmonious. Too young? I don't think so! Shot with an old

Nikon F and SS film.<div></div>

My analyzer came in today with no manual (Colorstar 3000) and it is useless

without instructions. Could anyone please give me some info to get me started

using this UFO. I have ordered a manual that will take a week to get here and

with anything new, curiousity is killing me. I don't want to use it without

being cautious. It has the sensor that can be tilted (?) and a electrical cord

and another cord with a five prong male plug. I have a neg with a print that is

not perfect (but what is?) but acceptable. Where do I go from here? I will shoot

a wedding on Labor day and for sure I will shoot the first frame on a gray card.

I want to print some of my shots for the wedding, color and b&w.

Trying to print color negs. Can't get out of a rut. Here is what I have: Omega

super Chromega C-700 color head, Beseler PM1A analyzer, Kodak viewing filters

six set, When I view through the filter that makes the photo look halfway decent

and I print what is suggested say add (M20, Y20) it makes it extremely worse.

Now I have scanned the photo that I am trying to get right and included it for

your help. I printed the photo on Kodak Portra R4A paper that gives a starting

point of M65 Y55 C0. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Ron<div></div>

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a?topic_id=1701&category=Color+Management%3eLighting

 

http://www.ledlight.com/default.aspx

 

Check these links for some dukes mix of lighting. Little on the expensive side but worth every penny. Saves you money in the long run.

I know Photoshop can be used to scan negatives to manage color setup for the

enlarger color head for printing if one knows how to read the results from

photoshop. If a negative isn't just right photoshop will auto adjust the colors

for a good print. I noticed that in "image,adjust,levels" there are three boxes

when you adjust the colors, also a drop down to choose the RGB chanels. When you

run the auto feature each of the RGB colors will give a different number in the

boxes. Can anyone tell me what these boxes represent? If anyone could relate

these numbers to the Color Head Correction filters then one should get a print

close to the correct color. When a neg is adjusted the boxes will read 0, 1.0,

255. I had one negative shot that read {red= 29, 1.0, 111; Green= 44,1.0, 179;

Blue 34, 1.0, 211} to adjust to the proper color. O.K. now you GURUs come to my

aide and I will be well pleased.