dpowis

The symptoms : film blank but with markings.

 

I'd guess your film was well processed but not exposed. The problem is probably with the camera and/or the back (not an expert). I'd suggest asking in the medium format digest forum. I'm sure there will be lots of Hasselblad experts which will undoubtebly run you through the troubleshooting list and you should be able to find what the problem is. Although one first thing.

 

When the shutter is on B and you trip the shutter release, does the shutter in the lens open ? If not, there's one possible reason. If the lens shutter opens, then the problem is possibly with the "flaps".

I guess I'll be moving into this thread, but I am about to buy an MPP camera (Mk VIII), and the lens is a Schneider Symmar 150/5.6 with a serial number of 11 million something.

 

What is the extent of movements on this lens with the camera ?

 

Is it a good camera (I'm starting LF) ?

 

It comes with three double film holders ? I guess all I need now is a Combiplan to develop them (film developping in trays scares me a bit).

 

Thanks to all for your answers.

Mark, browsing through some old posts, I saw you were looking for a right strap lug assembly. I was taking apart an old T90 (fell 6 feet from a shelf), and I managed to get the lug out. However, it is slightly cracked. Maybe a bit of super glue could strenghten it. Do you still need such an item ?

OK, I was actually wondering why the light was going dim, and it's because the battery is running low. I guess I'll have to get a stockpile of 625 batteries.

Also by the way,

 

I got a Canon F1 Finder Illuminator that is pretty handy, but I've been using it with an alkalyne battery. Is there any possibility that it might damage the thing ? It is only a lamp.

 

Thanks

As we are talking, I've been trying my f/4 lenses on my Canon F1 (the one in the picture), and focusing isn't that easy. I have found on the web some Mint- G screens for the camera. Have any of you used them ? Are they better than an A (standart) screen ?

 

Thanks.

Mark, by the way, what is that pretty large lens in on one of the shelves in the right part of the picture ?

http://www.bbc.co.uk/topgear/downloads/hilux_broadband.ram

 

That about old trucks, surviving to abusive treatment.

<img src=http://users.adelphia.net/~adkinstone/wimberlyF1N.jpg>

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There we go.

Here is how top post a picture.

 

Type in <img src="The picture's URL">

 

and chose HTML for the posting format.

 

Example shown in the next post

I'm starting a contest for Canon FD users/collectors.

 

The object of the contest is to post one or more pictures of your

equipment with the most accesories possible on it.

 

By the way, as to my equipment, have I reached the "collector"

status ? I'm afraid to say so, although I do use most of my

equipment on a regular basis.

 

 

<center><img src="http://epowis.club.fr/IMG_2926.jpg"></center>

 

 

<center><img src="http://epowis.club.fr/IMG_2929.jpg"></center>

Marc, wouldn't slide film a better way of testing a meter ? (I'm pretty sure you were actually thinking of it, but wrote print film by mistake :) )

Yellow filters will most likely increase the contrast of you pictures in B&W, regardless of film used. for question #2, you can normally ask for a print without modifications. for question #3, a yellow filter will affect Agfa Scala.

Try the Canon FD Forum, I'm sure you will find someone ther to help you.

Hi all,

 

I've just got my Speed Finder for the mechanical F1, and there seems

to be some dust in the finder, most probably at the interface

between the two prisms (where the finder can be rotated).

 

Has any of you already opened a Speed Finder, and is it an easy

operation ?

 

Thanking you in advance for any advice,

 

Daniel

One more recomendation to get a CRIS adapter. I use one on a Canon F1 (sorry, not a Leica, but it uses the same 625 mercury batteries) and the exposure is spot-on. Also, I had had a Canon FTb's meter recalibrated, but as the battery got used, the voltage went down and the exposure readings went off. A silver oxyde battery (the one you put in the CRIS adapter) has a very stable voltage.

 

Also, contrarely to a strong belief, USA is not the only country to have banned mercury batteries. In fact, most of "the West" (America, Europe, Australia, etc...), plus Japan and other asian countries have banned it. Sometimes, you will be able to get mercury batteries, but they are most likely old stock.

One reason DSLRs have a mechanical shutter is to protect the sensor.

As many people have complained about it, DSLRs are already quite sensitive to sensor dust. Now imagine if the sensor had no physical protection, and you happened to change a lens in a dusty/dirty/wet/etc.. environment, you would probably ruin your sensor instantly.

That's why digital Point and Shoot cameras have an electronic shutter. As the lens is not removable, the sensor is always safe.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Daniel

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<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/2283303&size=lg">http://www.photo.net/photo/2283303&size=lg</a>

1937 Contax II. Bought used a couple of months ago.

Also, they were talking about Capa's grainy images taken on Omaha beach. Weren't those taken with a Contax ?

the pre-release feature on Hasselblads is just like a MLU, except once you have trigerred the pre-release, you have to trigger the shutter. I guess that shouldn't be too different from a regular MLU for the use (landscape) you will make of it.

One question (a bit OT, I know), you were talking of using R lenses on Canon cameras (I guess you are talking about EOS cameras), but do they make adapters to use Leica R lenses on Canon FD cameras ? That should be possible, considering that the flange to film plane distance on FD cameras is shorter than on EOS cameras.

 

Thanks for any feedback.

 

Daniel

Not really a professional job, but an assignement for my school's prom night.

 

I was about to take some pictures at the dinner before the party, and while I was taking a few pictures with the flash (300TL on my Canon T90), I noticed that I smelled weird. I brought it up to my nose and it actually had that smell of burnt electronics. I turned it off, and noticed it wasn't properly aligned on the hot shoe, meaning there had probably been a short circuit.

 

Luckily, I had brought a little digital P&S for those shots that needed a flash. For the fashion show, I was too far away from the catwalk for the flash to have any effect, so I wouldn't have helped either.

I use a Jobo 1510 tank, and I do recall using the right amount of chemicals (250mL). And I don't remember seeing any leaks. And I did the standart Iflord agitation : 4 times for 10 seconds, at the start of every minute.