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kunihiko

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Posts posted by kunihiko

    Fuji Neopan 400 and Acros 100

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Since I'm in Japan, Fuji NEOPAN line is the most reasonable choice for me.

    I've developed hundreds of NEOPAN 400 PRESTO, mostly in Microfine 1:1 at EI200. Microfine is a fine grain developer like Perceptol. I like Microphen stock for EI800.<BR>

    Recently I'm in love with this film deved in Pyrocat-HD, extremely sharp. Sometime it's too much, though.

    HP5 grain problem

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Uhhhh... It could be over exposed - under developed and contrast was enhanced from very flat negative when scanned...and maybe some scan things are added. Auto dust removing of a scanner could make this kind of look. I just thought so, not sure.

    Super Prodol and Neopan 1600

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    I read Japanese and have a package of SPD. I don't read English much, though.<BR>

    For small tank use, add slowly the chems to 1 litter of water(between 20 and 40C) stiring.<BR>

    SPD is the most popular push processing developer in Japan, because of its availability and reasonable price. Personally, I prefer Micrphen, but it's expensive here. Microphen is 780yen, SPD is 170yen for 1 litter package.<BR>

    NEOPAN 1600 is very quickly developed in SPD. 1:1 dilution would be better for EI1600 or below to avoid uneven results.<BR>

    How much gear do you carry?

    in Street & Documentary

    Posted

    I used to carry a SLR(canon NF-1) , three lenses(28,50,85mm), 10 rolls of film, some filters and a meter. When I switched to Canon EOS system the lenses became bigger, so now, three lenses are too much for me.<BR>

    When I don't have any plan to shoot I carry a Contax TVS and 5 rolls of NEOPAN 400. That's enough.

    Current Fuji film prices in Japan

    in Travel

    Posted

    Fuji Velvia 50(RVP) - 1 roll \871, 5 rolls pack \4095, 20 rolls pack \16275<BR>

    Fuji Provia F100(RDPIII) - 1 roll \892, 12 rolls pack \8883<BR>

    Fuji Provia F400(RHPIII) - 1 roll \1165, 5 rolls pack \5659, 20 rolls pack \20790<BR>

    35mm 36EX at Yodobashi Camera, including sales tax, Japanese YEN<BR>

    Neopan 1600@800

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    I've little experienced with NEOPAN 400 & 1600, both at EI3200,1600,800.<BR>

    I prefer NEOPAN 1600 for EI3200 & EI1600, NEOPAN 400 for EI800.<BR>

    <A href="http://www.photo.net/photo/2146359&size=lg">This one in my PN page is NEOPAN 1600 @1600 developed in Pyrocat-HD</A><BR>

    I'm not sure that your browser is OK with Japanese Language pages, but I have some photos in my web site.<BR>

    <A href="http://www.tokyo-photo.net/film/image02/spr009.html">NEOPAN 1600 @ 800</A><BR>

    <A href="http://www.tokyo-photo.net/film/image02/pr011.html">NEOPAN 400 @ 800</A><BR>

    * FUJIDOL E is a Fuji's developer. I guess it's like XTOL (not sure).

    Is Exposure Compensation for 3rd Party Lenses Linear on EOS3?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    Hi Neil<BR>

    As you've noticed, EOS 3 does not support stopping down aperture priority metering. Though I haven't tested with EOS 3 yet (I just bought one last month), I assume EOS 3 wolud meter correctly only when the attached lens were wide opend.<BR>

    With my little search with my EOS 10D, different lens shows different results.<BR>

    <A href="http://www.tokyo-photo.net/equip/ef/test001/test001.html">EOS 10D w/ Carl Zeiss Planar 50mm f/1.4 T*</A><BR>

    <A href="http://www.tokyo-photo.net/equip/ef/test003/test003.html">EOS 10D w/ Carl Zeiss Sonnar 135mm f/2.8 T*</A><BR>

    If you attempted to shoot based on your exporsure tests, you would have to test every aperture step by step, every lens you would use one by one. It would probably be a hard work.<BR>

    I would meter with an external exposure meter or meter at widest aperture with the TTL meter, then manualy set the aperture and the shutter speed.<BR>

    How water resistant is the Canon F1N camera? It seems to be.

    in Canon FD Mount

    Posted

    <I>Ah, well. Anyone know about Canon Japan?</I><BR>

    Last year, I sent my F-1N and T-90 to Canon Service Center. For the T-90, they said that if they had required parts they could repair (they didn't have what mine needed). For the F-1N, they mentioned nothing. I easily had my F-1N repaied, some parts were replaced. I think they still support F-1N. It was last year, though.<BR>

    I just sent it and they sent it back C.O.D., but their web site says...<BR>

    <B>This repair desk service is domestic only. We are sorry, for not being able to access from overseas. Please contact your regional service center. Thank you.</B><BR>

    <BR>

    Kunihiko, Japan.<BR>

    Night Shots in Tokyo Japan (Bright enough for handheld?)

    in Travel

    Posted

    I haven't taken night shots at well known city like Kabukicho for years, because it's not as safe as it used be. When I was younger, braver, and the town was safer, I was shooting ISO800 color films in handheld. ISO400 would work fine but faster is better at night.<BR>

    If you don't feel comfortable flying with high speed films, you can buy and get them processed here.<BR>

    I don't mean that it's dangerous for a tourist to take photos in Kabukicho at night. Just be careful and please don't step into deep inside the night town with a camera.<BR>

    Don't worry, it must be safer for a tourist than for a Japanese like me. Japanese gangsters are more tolerant with foreigners, cause most of them don't understand English language. It would be really hard for them to threaten you.<BR>

    I don't know much about the situation in Kyoto. Posters above know better than me.<BR>

    For the rainbow bridge, I've uploaded some photos in <A href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=349612">my portfolio</A>. I hope them help you to fine good locations.<BR>

    <BR>

    Have a good travel !<BR>

    Cost Effective LF Cameras: An Opinion

    in Large Format

    Posted

    I had been shooting only 35mm until last summer and decided to go to 4x5. I purchased a used TOYO VIEW and a 125mm lends under 50000 yen (about 450 USD). Though they were suprisingly cheep I've added a good tripod and ballhead to my set, and film holders, developing tanks, etc, and finaly a big new enlarger.<BR>

    I've noticed that it doesn't cost to START LF, but does cost to DO LF. I'm very happy with the results, though.<BR>

    <A href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1881158&size=lg">My recent upload</A><BR>

    Photographing Japanese cranes and Snow monkeys

    in Nature

    Posted

    I don't know well cause it's not my field, I made a little search.<BR>

    Kushiro Marshland(Kushiro Shitugen) in Hokkaido is a famous place for photographing Japanese Crane (Tancho Zuru). In the winter, about 200 cranes pass the winter around Akan Town. It's only 20 minutes from the Kushiro airport.<BR>

    <BR>

    This guy is photographing Tancho professionaly. His gallery would be helpfull for you to choose the time of year.<BR>

    He has an e-mail adress on the site, so I guess you could contact him VIA e-mail.<BR>

    http://www.marimo.or.jp/~turu/<BR>

    <BR>

    Neopan 400 + D23

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    I mostly shoot NEOPAN 400 and develop them in Fuji Microfine. I guess Microfine is not available in U.S or Europe, but it is the one of the most common developers in Japan.<BR>

    The fomula of Microfine is not published but from the MSDS I assumed that it's similar to D-23, very simple Metol based developer. 1 liter of D-23 has 7.5g metol and 100g sodium sulphite, Microfine has 6g and 100g (just my guess). It's not a big difference.

    I prefer EI200 and 1:1 diluted Microfine combination as many of other Japanese photographers do.<BR>

    In my experience, it's hard to get good shadow detail from NEOPAN 400 at EI400 with metol based 1 bath developers. EI200 would be worth a try.

    Photo supplies in Japan

    in Travel

    Posted

    Which city will you stay ?<BR>

    In major cities, it won't be hard for you to get what you need, but it would be difficult to find Rodinal in countryside, I think.<BR>

    Needlles to say, Fuji Products are easiest to get. If you like them there's no problem.

    The first few aikido shots. Any suggestions on how to improve?

    in Portraits & Fashion

    Posted

    Gearoid, I have some questions.<BR>

    <BR>

    What ISO setting did you use on your 10D ?<BR>

    What shutter speed did you get ?<BR>

    Why did you make the most of your pictures into B&W ?<BR>

    With your 28-135 zoom, what focul length did you mostly use ?<BR>

    Did you use a monopod ?<BR>

    Did you try your 100mm f/2.8 ?<BR>

    <BR>

    Considering the player's black HAKAMA, I don't think B&W is a good idea. The greenish backgrounds would help you only in color images.<BR>

    I think you don't need a flash, but faster lens. If shooting AIKIDO was very important for you, I would suggest you to get a prime lens which has the focul length you mostly used with your 28-135mm. With a monopot, you wouldn't need IS. <BR>

    I think background would be better at the demonstration than at the training session, because there'll be no one standing in background. They will be sitting(SEIZA?) around the mat. If you could use faster lens, faster shutter speed would help you to capture the motion, smaller DOF would help you to blur the unpleasant backgrounds away.<BR>

    If I shoot AIKIDO with the equipment you already have (which I saw in your PN page), I would shoot the 10D @ISO3200 with the 100mm f/2.8 and a monopod. Considering the AIKIDO's action and the 10D's enough pixels, I will take some margins in composition on the assumption that I would have to do some cropping works.<BR>

    <BR>

    Sorry for my immature English.

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