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kunihiko

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Posts posted by kunihiko

    Infrared Exposure meter conversion

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    I've been thinking the same thing as Helen mentioned - Short Wave Pass filter would be requiered depends on the spectral sensitivity of the photo diode used in the meter.<BR>

    From what I have read, some photo diodes has its sensitivity peak at around 950nm and lose sensitibity at 1000nm-ish, some have its peak at 800nm and start to lose sensitivity at 900nm-ish. On the second case, you may not have to worry much about SWP filter thing, I guess.<BR>

    Has anyone got spectral sensitivity curves of the photo diode used in the meters mentioned above ?<BR>

    Since the SWP filtets are bit expensive, photo diode which has spectral sensitivity suited for IR photography without a SWP filter would be nice.<BR>

    Which meter would be preferable on this regard ?

    EF Price and FD lens types

    in Canon FD Mount

    Posted

    Look same ? ummm. Do they have same number of aperture blades ? I thought f1.8 s.c.(I) was the last canon 50/1.8 with 6 blades and it has lever lock on the back. 1.8 s.c.(II) has 5 blades, no lever lock. The lever lock locks aperture blades opened for reverse mouting for close up work.

    Mother of all EOS?

    in Canon FD Mount

    Posted

    I had been using a T-90 for 17years untill it died. It was surely a great camera. Now I use a New F-1 and sometimes an EOS 3. Comparing with EOS 3, what I would like to have had in T-90 would be AEB and evaluate metering.

    What FD lenses do you own?

    in Canon FD Mount

    Posted

    I have bought, owned, sold many. What I'm now keeping are 24mm f/2.8, 28mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.2, 85mm f/1.8. Canon FDs used be my main gear, but I've moved to MF and LF. So my FDs are limited to basic and very reliable line. I would add 35mm f/2 some day.

    PC-TEA pushing

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Dan, I thought same thing "I hope I can use PC-TEA as my only developer" and have some rolls of NEOPAN400@1600 developed. My time/temp were somewhere around you mentioned.<BR>And my choice goes to... I'm going to mix new batch of Microphen tonight.

    Is upgrading to a T-90 worth it?

    in Canon FD Mount

    Posted

    I had been using T90 for 17 years untill it died. I've been using New F-1 for about 10 years. I was using both in same time. Both are great cameras, but are different. I think upgrading to T90 from T70 makes sense, to F-1 from T70 is another story.<BR>

    Honestly, I miss my T90 sometime, but I wouldn't go back. Because I can't be sure on possibility of servicing in the future. When my T90 died, I sent T90 and New F-1 to canon service in the same time. New F-1 came back having some parts replaced, T90 didn't make it.<BR>

    Now my EOS3 dose what T90 was doing. I keep New F-1 with FD lenses, because FDs are smaller and lighter than EFs and I like that. That's why I still love the FD line.<BR>

    If you found a T90 in very good condition and reasonable price, yes T90 is worth it, but been prepared for switching to EOS is another choice. Ofcouse, this is just my personal opinion.

    Reciprocity Failure

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    If you had an access to Fuji products, I would recommend NEOPAN 100 ACROS for that kind of long exposure. It won't be affected by r-failure up to 120 sec. That's what Fuji says, and yes, I've done some 60 to 120 sec exposure with successes. You can just set the shutter and aperture as your meter indicates. ACROS can be faster than ISO400 films in very long exposure.<BR>

    <A href="http://www.photo.net/photo/3850881">ACROS exposed for 60sec as my meter said</A><BR>

    <BR>

    I'm sorry that this page is in Japanese, If you can just see a table in it, it's a table made from ilford r-failure graph.<BR>

    <A href="http://www.tokyo-photo.net/pr/reciprocity.html">http://www.tokyo-photo.net/pr/reciprocity.html</A><BR>

    <BR>

    hope this help

    Why is everyone pushing/pulling 3200?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    In the first place, most important factor is shooting film speed which gives you the required combination of shutter speed and aperture such as f4 1/60sec, f2.8 1/125sec or something.<BR>

    When the lights are enough you could get those combination even with EI200 or EI400, but in low light condition, you would need EI1600, EI3200 or sometime higher.

    That's the time you need to push, because there's no such real high speed film.<BR>

    Since there's no real 1600 or 3200 speed film, you always underexpose them when shooting for EI1600 or 3200 to get requiered f/sec combination and need to push process to compensate.<BR>

    When EI3200 gives you the best aperture/shutter combination, EI3200 is simply the best. DELTA 3200 works well for that speed and higher.<BR>

    Best developer for Neopan 1600

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    I've been fooling around NEOPAN 1600. What I've found is that for EI800 many developers work fine. I like diluted Microphen fot that EI.<BR>

    For EI1600 and above, as SPIDER said, a combination of higher dilution, extended times and limited agitation works. My current choice is Fuji Fujidol-E 1:3. If you don't have an access to Fujidol-E, Kodak Xtol would be fine.<BR><div>00CAqu-23480984.jpg.87afcedeee64c28b7e3adc0270034ef9.jpg</div>

    Pyrocat-HD shelf life

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Hi<BR>

    I've checked the archive but I couldn't find what I want to know. I'm

    sorry if this question has been already answered.<BR>

    I've been using Pyrocat-HD as my standerd developer for a while and I

    like the results. I don't shoot much, so I want to know how long can I

    keep them in my shelf. Does anyone know that how long the stock

    solution keep its performance ?

    Your favorite ISO 800 film?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    At EI800, I shoot NEOPAN 400 for finer grain and NEOPAN 1600 for better shadow.

    The reasen why I shoot NEOPANs is that I like them and they are cheap here. We have 100ft rolls in Japan.

    Other ISO400 films, HP5+, Tri-X, Delta also work, I think.<BR>

    I used to push NEOPAN 400 with Microphen-like home brew. Now I've found that Fujidol E fits my work. Many standard developers, Xtol, D-76, etc, would work fine in both way - push ISO400 films and pull faster films - to EI800.

    If I couldn't find Fujidol, I would go Xtol.

    neopan 1600 at 3200

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Though I haven't used Xtol to push Neopan 1600 to 3200, I think it will work fine.<BR>

    I use Microphen stock for better shadow, diluted Fujidol-E for sharper look.<BR>

    Developing time for 3200 is about 70% longer than for 1600 in my experience, Fuji's datasheet suggests somewhere around 75%(@1600 x 1.75).<BR>

    EI3200 is hard for Neopan 1600, so you would need to run a test or two before develop an important roll.

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