harveysteeves

<p>if this camera was your grandfather's, if you afford it, get it repaired and put it away for once a year use and buy a replacement. The FE2 is relatively inexpensive, a lifetime memory of your grandfather may be priceless.</p>

<p>I think the best person to answer your questions would be the poster of the conversion on manual focus lenses.</p>

Now, how do I clean the mirror? My nearest repair guy is 250 miles away so is there anyway to clean it myself? Funny I bought the camera in the same city as the closest repair guy.

The story, as I read it somewhere, was that the X-Pro 2 would be more advanced than the XT-1. My bet is 20 mp Xtrans, among other things. Any FF would be past 2016 and along the lines of a fixed lens compact like the RX-1.

See, manual focusing is more than possible and indeed easier on an A7 than a Nikon DSLR.

Focus peaking on the A7 should help you manually focus - it's how people are using non Sony lenses except Canon now. You should be able to use manual and aperture priority modes on the A7 as the adapters stop the lenses down as you turn the aperture ring. Your exif data just won't show the aperture. Ps. I have both the original A7 and A7r and use Nikon and a bunch of other glass on them. I even have a G adapter for Nikon lenses without a built in aperture ring. Clunky but functional.

It's not like it's drugs or anything ...

<p>I'm willing to bet that while these bigger heavier fast primes from Sigma, Zeiss are made with better materials, that their profit margins are significantly higher than slightly lower quality lenses - i.e.. Nikon's 1.8s. Nikon might get some of that back just on volume but the 3rd party guys get cross-platform use.</p>

Antonio, you really need to get the mmf-3 to get the best af performance out of the 150. In my experience, the Panny adapters do not mate well with Oly cameras other than to serve as lens mounts. Still think that selling it could be an option and the 40-150/2.8 is a very nice lens. I know a buyer ;-)

You could use an original 4/3rds body like an Olympus E5, however these are holding their value so maybe an E3. Used Olympus EM5s are inexpensive but you would need an mmf-3(I think) to adapt. The best current one is the EM-1, which has an AF system designed for use with 4/3rds lenses. I think you would need the additional battery pack for balance. Although adapted, it would work on Panasonic bodies, Olympus would be much better with better in-body stabilization, perhaps better in-body removal of chromatic aberrations, definitely better focus with an EM-1. Or you could throw up your hands in frustration, decide to sell it to me and enjoy a beer or two.

Actually, here is where I kind of disagree with the rest. It might just work. I have placed a 35mm mount mirror lens on the front of a mf body and got infinity focus. It was a Vivitar branded one and a t-mount. Since this lens was very light, I always figured if I cut a hole in a body cap, and mounted this on the lens, it might be usuable. The Tamron might be a little more difficult. I should look, I have a couple.

Now, I might consider a A7Rii.

After buying an EM-5ii, I was considering selling my EM-1. Not anymore. The focus stacking option just made my life a great deal easier and even better if I can use it on landscapes.

<p>I had always wondered what had happened to that camera. It was a little beauty that seemed rather fragile with the bare focusing screen. Although the details are very fuzzy, collecting those lenses 25-30 years ago wasn't easy for me in the wilds of western Canada.</p>

<p>no black sides out on the sheet film holders so I am assuming all are unexposed. As for film, I will have to see how the boxes that have been sitting frozen for the last many years have done.</p>

<p>there were about 20 loaded film holders - I have no idea what is in them, no markings. So, I will just put in an ISO of 100, hope to process them in the JOBO CPP2 that was included in the pile of stuff in the locker.</p>

<p>Just before Christmas last year, a camera store near to me (if you call 200 miles near), told me about an older lady who had brought in some LF equipment she wanted to sell. Her husband had passed away 10 years ago and it was just sitting in storage. After a few misadventures in connections, I finally had the opportunity to talk to her about what she really had.<br> Back in the 80s', seduced by the lure of large format to better image quality and following the siren of Ansel, I saw myself as a LF follower, tramping the wilds of western Canada. I built up a travel system in pursuit of the great images I was going to make. However, no great images. Not really my medium. There were also a few bills piling up. I sold it.<br> Fast forward, this older lady and I talked. She remembered my name. I remembered their house as well as her husband's name. We met. It was all there - the camera, the lenses, even the same backpack. How could I not buy it?<br> My new/old Zone VI Wista, the 65/90/150/210/250/400 lenses ...</p><div></div>

I have yet to see a digital projector that can equal a top notch slide projector and properly exposed slide film. Good LCD monitors are ok but limited in how many can watch. As far as image numbers go, get to know your camera and shoot slower. Ps. Pentax 67 and a Mamiya Pro Cabin projector, Velvia 50. Get a really good screen. Prepare to do a little work.

I like the DF for people, especially portrait, images. Like the tones out of it. It and an 85.

<p>guides are guides and usually not photographers. Often they have no idea of how you shoot. If you can carry it, bring it. What you have while on the road shouldn't make much difference - its what you are carrying while hiking. Because sometimes, jacking your ISO into noisy crap territory just means you get noisy crap.</p>

<p>let's face it, the camera companies have been only doing small increments of performance increases in their camera models for years now. The last time Nikon really blew the doors off on a camera was the D800 and even that had slow performance compared to other bodies in terms of computing power. Before that, the D700. Canon did it with some of the Rebels from a few years ago. None of them have produced a body which has loaded up the best features and the best performance that was currently available. To me, this D7200 … whatever. IMO, Nikon has walked away from a high end DX body.</p>

<p>or just find a Nikon PN-11 tube (used for 1:1 with the Nikon 105/f4 macro lens). The Vivitar matching one, if I remember correctly, as I can't find mine, is a 2x converter and that is how it gets to life-size(could be wrong and often am). Personally, I like the PN-11 as it has a tripod mount. You could also try to find the Vivitar 2x macro converter as that was a converter and a helicoid extension tube - gave you greater than 1:1. More glass, though.</p>

I believe Olympus Capture is geared toward more recent M4/3rds cameras over older 4/3rds models. You may be limited to Olympus View; perhaps someone else could indicate if either Lightroom or Capture One could be used.

<p>is the person who processes your film doing single shot developing or replenishing his developer?</p>

<p>I have a Nikon 9000 that supposedly has never been plugged in. Just been sitting in a box. So, I am probably going to try to run it off a 27" I7 IMac with OSX 10.8.5. Go with Vuescan? Any way to use the Nikon software or is it just unsupported? It is supposed to have the glass carrier ... Later, we might talk about the other scanner I found, the Imacon.</p>