peter_bongard
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Posts posted by peter_bongard
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Hi!
I'm planning to do portraits with my EOS 3 and now I'm thinking of
some good flash alternatives. Right now I have to make a decision
wheter to buy a proper studioflash or to buy the 550 ex, perhaps with
the IR-control, as well as an umbrella/softbox, a stand and that's it.
I now have the 380 ex, but I think it's too weak to shoot larger
groups of people indoors, right? So do you think I'll get nearly the
same results with the 550/umbrella-combo as with a studioflash? Or
perhaps even my 380 ex (with umbrella/stand) will do the job? If so,
are there any possibilities to release the 380 ex without a cable?
thanks!
Peter
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Bill,
I am considering the same (although I plan to do MF on it), and I got the following helpful mail from an italian user:
>Elio Pecora (elio.pecora@fastweb.it) responded to a message you
requested notification for in the Medium Format Digest bboard:
Subject: Response to Summary on Epson 3200
Peter,
I bought an Epson 3200 a couple of months ago. Before buying it I asked to
Epson, Minolta and Nikon (at a Photo Exhibition) to scan a 6x6 film. 1 B&W
(Delta 100) and 1 color negative (Kodak 160 VVC).
IMO the result was the following:
- the B&W scan from Epson is fully comparable with the Minolta scan
- the B&W scan from Nikon is slightly superior, but for very small margin (not
significant for A3+ prints)
- the color scan from Epson is much superior to Minolta color scan.
In addition I scanned the same 35mm B&W negative with Epson and my Canon FS
2710 (2700 dpi dedicated film scanner). After retouching the 2 scans in
Photoshop there are not significant differences between them. I can confirm
that the average quality of the Epson 3200 in comparable with a good 2700
dedicated film scanner.
I still have those scans with me, and I'm willing to send them to you; the
problem is the file size: about 50 Megs for B&W and 150 Megs for color!!!
Definitely I consider the Epson 3200 a very good scanner, very close in quality
to the best dedicated MF film scaner. For amateur photographers using Medium
Format it's a best buy.
Let me know if I can be of help.
Hallo to everybody
Elio<
Hope this helps,
Peter
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Hi!
Is it possible to compensate the aperture or exposure in half-steps on
the Mamiya C330 f (for example, choosing 1/90 sec. shutter-speed?)?
Regards
PEter
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Hi!
I know this has been topic of countless posts, but let's sum it up
here: Is there a place on the web or can somebody post examples of an
Epson perfection 3200 MF-Scan and a Nikon LS-8000/ Minolta Multi Pro
MF-Scan? I think lots of people still are deciding which one to buy.
The conclusion from what I've read so far is that the differences
between the epson and a good MF-filmscanner are still there, but
(after applying proper USM) are not *really* worth 2000 bucks! And-
are there any differences between a scan with a midclass
35mm-filmscanner (like the Minolta Dimage Dual III) and an epson
MF-Scan? And finally- are there any alternatives up to $1000 for MF
scanning that are better than the epson (what about an old Minolta
multi I or II or the new canon flatbed?)?
What do you think?
Regards
Peter
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Hi!
I have the following problem with my Mamiya C330 F and an 80/2.8 lens.
I'll try to find the proper words of the camera, since I only have a
german manual...Note: The "o'clocks" refer to the position of the
lever, not the time ;-).
The problem is: When I push the shutter-release-button, the small
lever which is situated at the bottom right of the lower lens (about 5
o'clock), the one which actually releases the shutter) moves quite
slowly to its final shutter-release-position (about 3 o'clock), so
that the picture is actually taken a few seconds after I've pressed
the shutter-button. This problem doesn't occur always, just sometimes.
It got better when I moved the aperture-ring a bit. What to do? Should
I perhaps spray a *little* bit of teflon or contact-spray? Looks like
a mechanical obstacle to me, that prevents the lever to switch as fast
as it shold. Please help!
Thanks!
Peter
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I now own a Tokina AT-X 80-200 Pro 2.8. Will there be a noticeable difference regarding AF-speed and visual quality (sharpness etc) between the sigma and the tokina? Or should I make the "big step" to the Canon 70-200,2.8L?
Regards
Peter
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<as long as politics is not discussed within 1 metre of the camera lens combo, you should be fine.<
Yeah, I live in germany, so I don't think that the lens will be compatible with my eos, since the camera is from the "old europe"
;-> .
best wishes
Peter
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Hi again!
I'm currently looking at the Canon 80-200/2.8 L (without USM) or the
Sigma 70-200/2.8 HSM. Since I read from several posts that the
sigmas's optical qualiti is almost equal to the 80-200, I wonder
which of those lenses has the faster AF-Speed?
Regards
Peter
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Hi!
This one may be rather stupid, but anyway...
I'm thinking of buying a lens in the US (I live in Europe), since
there are a lot cheaper there. Are there any problems between
european Eos 3's and US-lenses?
Thanks!
Peter
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Hi!
Is the Eos 3 fully compatible with the Sigma 70-200/2.8 EX Apo?
Regards
Peter
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Hi!
I had the same problem with later versions of Vuescan on my Dimage III. Ed Hamrick wrote that the problem will be gone when scanning slides in 8-bit-mode. Since I didn't want to to that, I just installed an older version of Vuescan (7.6.29) and everything worked fine! I also had the "crash"-problem, but this also disappeared with version 7.6.29.
regards
peter
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Hi!
I have the Minolta Dimage Dual III and the Epson 1290 Printer with
MIS-B/W-Inks. I plan to upgrade to MF. Since I cannot afford a
Minolta Multi Pro, I'm looking at the Epson 3200. My Question: Does a
scanner that scans more than 2880 ppi make any sense (since my
printer is only capable of printing 2880 dpi as a maximum); or isn't
there any visual difference between an epson 3200 and the minolta
multi pro on the final print?
Regards
Peter
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Ah, and one other thing: My computer doesn't have any SCSI-controllers. What do I need to operate the multi II?
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Paul,
>1600 dpi through glass is not as good as 1600 without it.<
Ok, but the Minolta Dual II doesn't scan with 1600 ppi in MF, its ppi-resolution is significantly lower than that of the 3200.
Nick,
Whats RRP?
Does that mean the 9900 would deliver sharper pictures than the 3200? I think its software is still its handicap, but with vuescan, it should work finde, shouldn' it?
-Peter
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Well, I have the Minolta Dimage Dual III now. Because I want to switch to MF, I wonder what would give me best quality in terms of MF-negative-scans. I've heard that the MF-resolution of the multi II is only about 1200 ppi, whereas the 3200 manages around 1600 ppi. So the MF-Quality of the epson should be better (sharper), right?
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Hi!
I still didn't make a decision on what MF-scanner for around $1000 I
should buy. My favourite so far is the epson 3200 perfection. How is
the quality of the older Minolta Dimage Multi II in comparison to the
Epson 3200?
Regards
Peter
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So my conclusion so far would be that it's going to be "better" (deliver sharper, detailed prints) on 6x6, but not a whole lot. The question is: How big are the difference between a MF-Scan from the epson 3200 to another mid-range (Multi pro) or high-end-scanner (drumscanner)? I've read somewhere that (after USMing the picture) there is hardly any difference between an Epson 2450 (!) and a Nikon 8000 for $4000. So- could anybody post some blow-ups of comparison-pictures in which the details/differences between the scans become evident?
And what about the Minolta Dimage Multi II (cheaper than the pro, perhaps an alternative to the epson?!?)? Any good? Any other alternatives?
Peter
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Hi!
What about the Minolta Dimage Scan Mulit II? The price should be around 1000$ by now, so it's cheaper than the multi pro. Does it deliver significant better scans than the epson 3200?
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Hi!
I currently have a Minolta Dimage Dual III 35mm filmscanner and take
my pictures on an eos 3. I'm planning to start MF-Photography with a
Mamiya C330. Since I develop my negs at home (b/w only), edit them on
PC and print them on my Epson 1290 with MIS-Hextone-inks, I'd like to
maintain this workflow with MF-negs. The problem is that scanning MF
is very expensive (3000 Euros for a MF filmscanner), so I thought
about buying the Epson Perfection 3200 flatbed-scanner, since it can
scan MF-negatives. My question is: I think the true resolution of the
3200 is only somewhat around 1500 ppi (the dual III has 2820), so
scans of 35mm-slides look better on the Minolta. But MF-slides are
bigger than 35mm-scans, so would a MF-negativescan on the epson
deliver better results than a 35mm-scan on the Minolta (especially in
terms of resolution, sharpness)?
Thanks so much for your answers!
Peter
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Hi!
Do I have to recalibrate the Eyefocus of my Eos 3 when I take out my
battery or is the calibration data saved? I think that any other data
(custom functions etc...) are saved.
Regards
Peter
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Hi!
What is the best developer for the Agfa APX 100 as well as the Fuji
Neopan 1600?
Regards
Peter
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Hi!
I know that this has been posted many times, but here we go again:
Are Tokina-Lenses compatible with the EOS 3? I'm thinking of buying
their ATX Pro 28-80 / 80-200 Models but I've heard somewhere that the
internal chip of the lenses has to be resetted first.
Regards
Peter
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Hi!
Which lens combo is the best choice for the Canon EOS 3? The 28-70/2.8
and the 80-200/2.8 Tokina ATX Pro or the 28-105/3.5-4.5 / 75-300
IS-Combination from Canon? Perhaps a mixture of both? I do mainly
nature and concert photography. What are the disadvantages of 3rd
party-lenses such as Tokina? I've heard that their AF is much slower
and their sharpness weaker than Canons own lenses. Would the IS of the
75-300 or the fast shutter of the 80-200 be better for concert
photography?
Regards,
Peter
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Hi!
Are there any ways to edit 16-bit grayscale or RGB-Pictures in
Photoshop with 8-bit tools (burning/dodging, sharpening, but also the
NIK color effects)? If not, are there any alternatives or plugins
(especially for dodging and burning) that support 16-bit images?
Regards,
Peter
Flash for portraits on Mamiya C330?
in Medium Format
Posted
Hi!
Which is the best flash-option for portraits with the mamiya c330? I
now have a Metz CT36 and I'm thinking about using it with a stand and
an umbrella. Does this combo have enough power for portraits (the
recharge-time between each shot isn't a problem!) or should I go with
a stronger flash or even a studio flash? Which options do I have for
remote control of the flash? Ah-and is there a cheap (used?), reliable
flash meter that also does ambient-light metering? Are there any
things to consider when connecting a flash to the Mamiya??
Thanks
Peter