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peter_bongard

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Posts posted by peter_bongard

  1. Hi!

    Which is the best flash-option for portraits with the mamiya c330? I

    now have a Metz CT36 and I'm thinking about using it with a stand and

    an umbrella. Does this combo have enough power for portraits (the

    recharge-time between each shot isn't a problem!) or should I go with

    a stronger flash or even a studio flash? Which options do I have for

    remote control of the flash? Ah-and is there a cheap (used?), reliable

    flash meter that also does ambient-light metering? Are there any

    things to consider when connecting a flash to the Mamiya??

    Thanks

    Peter

  2. Hi!

    I'm planning to do portraits with my EOS 3 and now I'm thinking of

    some good flash alternatives. Right now I have to make a decision

    wheter to buy a proper studioflash or to buy the 550 ex, perhaps with

    the IR-control, as well as an umbrella/softbox, a stand and that's it.

    I now have the 380 ex, but I think it's too weak to shoot larger

    groups of people indoors, right? So do you think I'll get nearly the

    same results with the 550/umbrella-combo as with a studioflash? Or

    perhaps even my 380 ex (with umbrella/stand) will do the job? If so,

    are there any possibilities to release the 380 ex without a cable?

    thanks!

    Peter

  3. Bill,

     

    I am considering the same (although I plan to do MF on it), and I got the following helpful mail from an italian user:

     

    >Elio Pecora (elio.pecora@fastweb.it) responded to a message you

    requested notification for in the Medium Format Digest bboard:

     

    Subject: Response to Summary on Epson 3200

     

    Peter,

     

    I bought an Epson 3200 a couple of months ago. Before buying it I asked to

    Epson, Minolta and Nikon (at a Photo Exhibition) to scan a 6x6 film. 1 B&W

    (Delta 100) and 1 color negative (Kodak 160 VVC).

    IMO the result was the following:

    - the B&W scan from Epson is fully comparable with the Minolta scan

    - the B&W scan from Nikon is slightly superior, but for very small margin (not

    significant for A3+ prints)

    - the color scan from Epson is much superior to Minolta color scan.

     

    In addition I scanned the same 35mm B&W negative with Epson and my Canon FS

    2710 (2700 dpi dedicated film scanner). After retouching the 2 scans in

    Photoshop there are not significant differences between them. I can confirm

    that the average quality of the Epson 3200 in comparable with a good 2700

    dedicated film scanner.

     

    I still have those scans with me, and I'm willing to send them to you; the

    problem is the file size: about 50 Megs for B&W and 150 Megs for color!!!

     

    Definitely I consider the Epson 3200 a very good scanner, very close in quality

    to the best dedicated MF film scaner. For amateur photographers using Medium

    Format it's a best buy.

     

    Let me know if I can be of help.

     

    Hallo to everybody

     

    Elio<

     

     

    Hope this helps,

    Peter

  4. Hi!

    I know this has been topic of countless posts, but let's sum it up

    here: Is there a place on the web or can somebody post examples of an

    Epson perfection 3200 MF-Scan and a Nikon LS-8000/ Minolta Multi Pro

    MF-Scan? I think lots of people still are deciding which one to buy.

    The conclusion from what I've read so far is that the differences

    between the epson and a good MF-filmscanner are still there, but

    (after applying proper USM) are not *really* worth 2000 bucks! And-

    are there any differences between a scan with a midclass

    35mm-filmscanner (like the Minolta Dimage Dual III) and an epson

    MF-Scan? And finally- are there any alternatives up to $1000 for MF

    scanning that are better than the epson (what about an old Minolta

    multi I or II or the new canon flatbed?)?

    What do you think?

    Regards

    Peter

  5. Hi!

    I have the following problem with my Mamiya C330 F and an 80/2.8 lens.

    I'll try to find the proper words of the camera, since I only have a

    german manual...Note: The "o'clocks" refer to the position of the

    lever, not the time ;-).

     

    The problem is: When I push the shutter-release-button, the small

    lever which is situated at the bottom right of the lower lens (about 5

    o'clock), the one which actually releases the shutter) moves quite

    slowly to its final shutter-release-position (about 3 o'clock), so

    that the picture is actually taken a few seconds after I've pressed

    the shutter-button. This problem doesn't occur always, just sometimes.

    It got better when I moved the aperture-ring a bit. What to do? Should

    I perhaps spray a *little* bit of teflon or contact-spray? Looks like

    a mechanical obstacle to me, that prevents the lever to switch as fast

    as it shold. Please help!

    Thanks!

    Peter

  6. Hi!

    I have the Minolta Dimage Dual III and the Epson 1290 Printer with

    MIS-B/W-Inks. I plan to upgrade to MF. Since I cannot afford a

    Minolta Multi Pro, I'm looking at the Epson 3200. My Question: Does a

    scanner that scans more than 2880 ppi make any sense (since my

    printer is only capable of printing 2880 dpi as a maximum); or isn't

    there any visual difference between an epson 3200 and the minolta

    multi pro on the final print?

    Regards

    Peter

  7. Paul,

    >1600 dpi through glass is not as good as 1600 without it.<

    Ok, but the Minolta Dual II doesn't scan with 1600 ppi in MF, its ppi-resolution is significantly lower than that of the 3200.

     

    Nick,

    Whats RRP?

    Does that mean the 9900 would deliver sharper pictures than the 3200? I think its software is still its handicap, but with vuescan, it should work finde, shouldn' it?

     

    -Peter

  8. Well, I have the Minolta Dimage Dual III now. Because I want to switch to MF, I wonder what would give me best quality in terms of MF-negative-scans. I've heard that the MF-resolution of the multi II is only about 1200 ppi, whereas the 3200 manages around 1600 ppi. So the MF-Quality of the epson should be better (sharper), right?
  9. So my conclusion so far would be that it's going to be "better" (deliver sharper, detailed prints) on 6x6, but not a whole lot. The question is: How big are the difference between a MF-Scan from the epson 3200 to another mid-range (Multi pro) or high-end-scanner (drumscanner)? I've read somewhere that (after USMing the picture) there is hardly any difference between an Epson 2450 (!) and a Nikon 8000 for $4000. So- could anybody post some blow-ups of comparison-pictures in which the details/differences between the scans become evident?

    And what about the Minolta Dimage Multi II (cheaper than the pro, perhaps an alternative to the epson?!?)? Any good? Any other alternatives?

    Peter

  10. Hi!

    I currently have a Minolta Dimage Dual III 35mm filmscanner and take

    my pictures on an eos 3. I'm planning to start MF-Photography with a

    Mamiya C330. Since I develop my negs at home (b/w only), edit them on

    PC and print them on my Epson 1290 with MIS-Hextone-inks, I'd like to

    maintain this workflow with MF-negs. The problem is that scanning MF

    is very expensive (3000 Euros for a MF filmscanner), so I thought

    about buying the Epson Perfection 3200 flatbed-scanner, since it can

    scan MF-negatives. My question is: I think the true resolution of the

    3200 is only somewhat around 1500 ppi (the dual III has 2820), so

    scans of 35mm-slides look better on the Minolta. But MF-slides are

    bigger than 35mm-scans, so would a MF-negativescan on the epson

    deliver better results than a 35mm-scan on the Minolta (especially in

    terms of resolution, sharpness)?

    Thanks so much for your answers!

     

    Peter

  11. Hi!

    Which lens combo is the best choice for the Canon EOS 3? The 28-70/2.8

    and the 80-200/2.8 Tokina ATX Pro or the 28-105/3.5-4.5 / 75-300

    IS-Combination from Canon? Perhaps a mixture of both? I do mainly

    nature and concert photography. What are the disadvantages of 3rd

    party-lenses such as Tokina? I've heard that their AF is much slower

    and their sharpness weaker than Canons own lenses. Would the IS of the

    75-300 or the fast shutter of the 80-200 be better for concert

    photography?

     

    Regards,

     

    Peter

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