peter_bongard

<p>The LS9000 is really noisy. I had one for four years and hated the "Tack-Tack-Tack"-Sounds when it scanned. I now use an Imacon Precision II (better Scanner than the Nikon 9000 - for almost half the Price!), and it is really silent. When performing a 6300ppi-Scan with the Imacon, you hear - nothing. Absolute Silence (except when the filmholder gets drawn in and thrown out, of course).<br>

Regards<br>

Peter</p>

<p>Hi Group!<br /> What is the best Way to scan an IT8-Target with the Flexcolor-Software in order to create a ICC-Profile? I've tried several settings, including the "Auto"-Method described in the Imacon-Yahoogroup. But the resulting Custom Profile results in a very (too) contrasty Picture. Any Ideas? Oh - I scan with the Imacon Precision II and Flexcolor 4.0.3. I profile the Scans with the SIPC-Software.<br /> Peter</p>

<p>Hmmm - so far none of the Questions of the initial Post have been answered...</p>

 

<p>No, I also scan 6x6 and 6x7. I know that they have a different resolution. But thanks anyway. Meanwhile, I dropped the Preci II off my list, since Hasselblad doesn't support/repair those Models anymore.</p>

<p>Hi!<br>

I'm thinking about selling my Nikon Coolscan 9000 and buying an Imacon 343, 646 or even the older Precision II. But before making this leap, I've got some questions:<br>

- What is the 343s and Preci IIs Speed when compared to the 9000 (let's say for a Full-Res, 16-Bit Scan of a 35mm-Neg)?<br>

- I've read somewhere that the Precision II can be upgraded to the III for free. How to do this exactly?<br>

- Which devices do I need to run the Precision II on my XP-PC?<br>

- What are the current Prices for the three scanners on the used-market?<br>

Thanks!<br>

Peter</p>

<p>Hi!<br>

I own a Mamiya RZ67 and the 110/2.8. Which Extension Tubes will work with this combo? The RZ and the RB ones?<br>

Peter</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi!<br>

Ist the CP-E4-Batterypack compatible with the 550ex?<br>

Peter</p>

<p>ok - I guess they did it because I'm in their "Professional"-Program and I've spend really big bucks for repairing another faulty M6 half a year before that. So take this with a grain of salt...</p>

<p>I've had the same Problem with my Classic M6. A dark stripe, just at the 1/1000 Sec. I've send the camera to Solms and they didn't fix it, but exchanged (!) it for a Leica MP (!!!). This is a common Problem with the M6 that is hard to cure, they said.</p>

<p>Hi Folks, I'm currently a PC user that has an Athlon 64 4000+ CPU, 4 Gigs of Ram and works with Win XP Pro. I'm planning to switch to a Mac, because I often work with Mediumformat-Scans that have roundabout 1,2 Gig per Image (!). So editing them (Curves, Tones etc...) in Photoshop CS 3 takes very long. My question: Which Mac should I buy? A Unibody Macbook or an old Macbook Pro (used)? Budget is roundabout 1500 Euro. Will this Switch give me a significant Speed Improvement? Do I have to buy my copy of Photoshop CS3 again for the Mac or does my Version of CS3 (I have the Upgrade-Version) fine on a Mac too?<br>

Thanks! Peter</p>

Hi!

How should I upgrade my PC so that it is faster in processing very large Files in Photoshop CS3? I'm speaking of

Mediumformat-Scans done with the Epson V700 that can reach sizes of roundabout 1,3 Gigabyte per Image. So

applying curves/filters/layers etc. takes very long. In order to speed up things: Should I upgrade my Ram? My CPU?

My Harddisk? I currently have an Athlon 4000+-System, 4GB of DDR2-Ram, two 7200 RPM Harddrive.

Regards

Peter

<p>I know Colorneg. Apart from getting blown-out highlights, I never liked the results colorwise.</p>

<p>Hi!<br />Does the Color-Reproduction of the Epson V700 differ from the Epson 4990? I always liked the way the 4990 reproduces Kodak Portra's color (I have a Nikon 9000, and I've been never able to reproduce those colors of the epson!). However, I understand that the V700 is a tad better than the 4990 D-Max and resolution-wise, but will it give me the same color?<br />Peter</p>

I also didn't have too much sucess with Colorneg. The Highlights were always blown, and the colors always seemed strange (somehow washed-out with a warm cast) to me. In my opinion, the best method for scanning color negatives is to use Vuescan, use "Generic" as a profile and then add some punch by copying the Layer (using "Soft Light" as the Fill-Method) and boosting Saturation in LAB-Mode.

 

Peter

Well, this is Stray Light coming from the Scanners internal Lamps. I get this when I don't use the black masks that came with the Film holders. When I use them, I get no dark Stripes (or Cyan Stripes).

Peter

Thanks!

I've done it! The mirror was actually pretty dirty for a two year old scanner...

Best regards!

Peter

Hi!

Has anyone successfully cleaned the internal optics of the Nikon Coolscan 9000? If so, how to do this?

Regards

Peter

Hi!

After working in the Digital Darkroom for several years (scanning B&W/Color-Negs with the Nikon 9000, Printing

them with the Epson R2400), I want to discover the Magic of the traditional Darkroom - but only for

C-41-Color-Negatives, since scanning them doesn't give me this certain look a traditional C-41-Print has. So my

plan is to develop the Negs (Kodak Portra) in a Lab and to enlarge the best Pictures myself. Since I don't want

to spend hours in the Darkroom: Which Enlargers/Processors can you recommend for home use? I'm particulary

interested in those fully automated processors that do anything from developing the Papers to the Drying. What

about the Longlevity of the Chemistry? How often do I have to refresh it? How much do I need? And what about the

notorious color casts when printing in RA-4? Is a good Color Analyzer (FEM) a Way to fix it?

Thanks!

Peter

Hi!

 

I have a Mamiya RZ67 with the 110/2.8 Lens and wonder if there are any differences between the various 77mm

rubber hoods. Do all of these hoods fit the 110mm-lens? Are there different hoods for WA/Tele-lenses? Which hoods

will fit the 110mm (without vignetting etc...)?

Thanks!

PEter

hmmm...but wouldn't I see those lines (or missing segments) also see in the nozzle check?

Peter

Hi!

I'm currently printing about 30 B&W-Pictures for an Exhibition. Yesterday I reprinted one of the images (the first

version had a scratch on it), and I noticed that the Greys suddenly looked strange: It seems like several of the

midtones are gone and the transitions seem pretty harst - almost as if one of the Grey-inks is clogged. But it wasn't:

The Nozzle-Check was perfect. All I did in between the prints was a) changing the empty LightLightBlack to a fresh

one and b) checking the "Highlight"-Box in the Epson "Advanced BW-Settings". I thought that it had to do with the

Highlight-Recovery-Option of the Epson-Driver, so I unchecked it - but nothing had changed. Any Ideas what could be

the cause? Oh - and I opened the Photo once again in Photoshop CS3 to stamp out the scratch, but didn't change

any of the colorspace-settings and/or tone-values.

Regards

Peter

I'll try that. Thanks so far!

Peter

Is it possible that I have a Mamiya RB-Shade and that the RB-shade won't fit on an RZ-lens?

On the hood, it says "no. 1". Anyone has an idea why it doesn't fit?