steven_clark

Short answer that is actually correct? Yes, but only with a Canon EOS-M which is a bargain mirrorless system camera with no viewfinder ( just the screen on the back). However this is also the case with ANY mirrorless system camera including a full frame model made by Sony if memory serves. Precisely zero DSLRS can have FD/FL lenses adapted with no extra optics to restore infinity focus.

<p>It's worth mentioning that monitor profiles in particular also store a LUT (lookup table) that gets loaded into the graphics card which is used to calibrate the brightness response of the screen (but not gamut) closer to something like sRGB so that for non color-managed applications you're at least showing colors with the right contrast if not the right coloration.</p> <p>Usually these profiles are created yourself with the Spyder or another sensor, factory profiles are often not as good because your colors are slightly different from theirs. Some of what I just said may not be quite as true as it was when monitors used phosphors excited by electron beam.</p>

<p>Here's my shot: Nothing we ever see is a single wavelength on the spectrum, if it was there would be no such thing as white, brown, or grey. What reaches our eyes is actually a bunch of different wavelengths of light combined for everything. The cones in our eyes then respond with different sensitivity patterns to the different wavelengths for each of 3 types of cones. This is called the tristimulus. Every color we perceive is a product of this tristimulus which are roughly red, green, and blue. However, since each of these cones respond to a range of wavelengths, and the ranges overlap, and there is other biological weirdness, no definition of red green and blue is able to encode every color we can perceive without encoding a significant chunk of colors we can't perceive, and maybe even some colors that can't exist, like they need negative light in some wavelengths.</p> <p>sRGB is one definition of red green and blue, that is intentionally a little narrow so that it's similar to a "normal" computer monitor range of colors. Your monitor has it's own definition, determined by the colors of it's primaries. With a numerically-measured "color profile" colors from a working color space like sRGB or a wider AdobeRGB can be converted to a universal (to human vision) but physically impossible system called a connection space and then out to the color numbers of an output device like a monitor or printer. The better those profiles are, the closer their output will be to each other, if all colors can be rendered by both devices.</p> <p>DirectX and OpenGL both operate in complete ignorance of any of the above, usually resetting the graphics card color calibrating Look Up Table to defaults on start, and therefore always operate at the full gamut of the screen with no consideration for getting the colors right at all. New versions of DirectX and Windows may allow output to 10 bit screens, but the result is just measuring the same monitor primaries between the same 0(full off) and 1(full on) with a couple more bits of precision after the decimal point. The result is yes 64 times as many in-between shades of the same range of colors (hence the claim of "more" colors). However, our eye-brain system can't even percieve the difference between nearby shades of the existing 256 shades per primary, so it will not create new colors.</p> <p>Why are there 10-bit screens and possibly graphics cards then? We sense things like lights and sounds in a logarithmic rather than linear scale: 6, 12, 25, 50, 100% looks more like 20, 40, 60, 80, 100% to our mind. In the graphics card and in a modern flat panel the color numbers are mapped on a function to compensate for us, through a Look Up Table, and when this function is done at onlt 256 shades of precision it doubles up some of the color numbers on the output and leaves gaps at some others because of rounding errors. 10-bit cards and screens reduce this rounding error to make sure we get *at least* 256 shades in each primary.</p>

When you don't take any pictures that aren't planned in advance because you're kit is too big.

No longer in production. My guess: a used Nikon 5000 off eBay and a license for Vuescan Pro so he will continue to have software to run it as the manufacturer software goes further out of date.

Most consumer cloud storage options will let you restrict access to a few users without having to own those users. Dropbox or Google Drive. Drive may be a better option simply because most people already have a Google account, so you just give access to their Gmail address and even if they aren't signed up for drive it should work when they are.

Also Photoshop CS6 has openCL support. CS 3 may not use the GPU but any later upgrades would. My comment on the scratch disk is that a good SSD controller chip will handle I/O in a completely random pattern with no problem. There is therefore no great need to put the Windows page file and the Photoshop scratch file on separate disks from each other anymore as the disk being accessed by 2 or 3 things at once no longer causes performance to plummet the way it used to. Also modern SSDs have vastly under rated write capacities and you don't really have to worry about using them for these virtual memory tasks. Plus, managing multiple disks is a royal PITA when it comes time to fix a computer through things like restoring a backup.

I suspect that remote control software is going to only emulate a normal pointing device, not a pressure- sensitive tablet pen. That said, if you aren't working on huge numbers of layers you might be just fine with a Surface Pro or other convertible as the device you edit on.

I'm going to go with Peter Carter here: Check that the disk was "closed" or finalized. I'm not sure that's something you can do yourself given your can't read the disk. With three right software you should be able to close a disk after the fact and Windows can do it at least on the system that wrote the disk.

You usually want some lighter inks to do black and white photographic output, printers known for good output often have grey and light grey. Otherwise the dots get spread very thin (and visible) in the light tones of the image. No this will probably not produce the quality of output you ate looking for. Think black and white laser printer not black and white photo.

The maximum sync speed of the shutter it's the fastest setting at which the shutter is completely open instead of a traveling slit. The actual pulse of the flash is freakishly fast and not your concern except in that it's not there long enough for a rolling slit to expose more than one slits-worth. 80's cameras topped out at 1/60 modern stuff tends to be 1/250 or better. Still, just using flash as your primary light bumps your effective shutter speed to about 1/1000 in terms of blur so fast syncs are usually counterproductive and just emphasize the flaws of flash lighting by mixing in less outside light.

I see some overkill, yes. You could probably go with a Core I5 and get most of the performance of that i7 for 2/3rds the price. While a chip with hyperthreading can perform better in certain situations, I've really only seen it pan out in some easily parallelizable physical simulation benchmarks. You might still want to consider a graphics card, AMD cards are good for doing raw math so certain operations may be accelerated if you have one. With a large enough SSD of sufficient quality a separate a scratch disk should not be necessary. On the other hand SSD capacity on the good drives eats your budget fast, not as fast as it did last year though. Consider choosing a quality power supply like a Corsair, it's a pain to troubleshoot later. A removable drive bay is cheap and very useful.

It's worth mentioning that if mine is any indication Vuescan doesn't properly calibrate the sensor resulting in noise stripes on color negatives. However Vuescan still has its own low-level USB driver that you might need just to get the original software working on any supported version of Windows.

On second thought: the advent of the Raspberry Pi has made compact HDMI or composite in displays an item you can get relatively cheaply. Rig that with a couple of buttons hanging off whichever port does remote triggering and you have a hardware-only solution, one you might even be able to rework for different cameras.

So maybe that plus something from Asus's Memopad line for the tablet.

The problem is the FD mount has a very short flange distance for an SLR to the degree that it's pretty much impossible to adapt to other SLR bodies. This is so more lenses can be adapted to FD cameras. Fortunately modern mirrorless system cameras have even shorter flange distances so they can adapt FD and just about any other older lens mount. So a 60d can't take FD lenses without extra optics that only work on expensive telephoto with the room in the barrel, but work great on a cheap EOS M.

I'm partial to NCPS because I'm in town and I like there being a local dip'n'dunk even if I don't shoot film often anymore. No complaints so far.

Acronis Truimage or Norton Ghost. Both can create boot disks you can use to restore your backup into a fresh disk without Windows. I'm not sure Windows' image based backup had that capability.

<p>I've been thinking I needed to invent my own from DIY electronics parts but it looks like if you have a need, China will provide, just examples here. The STC-1000 is mostly known to people who do home-brewing I guess. The immersion heater is a decades old design. Both seem plentiful enough although I dind't know the STC-1000 was a thing until today.<br> <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/110V-10A-Mini-Digital-STC-1000-All-purpose-Temperature-Controller-With-Sensor-/301124600936?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item461c6cc468">Cheap integrated temperature controller</a><br> <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Travel-Coffee-Tea-Water-Heater-Boiler-Immersion-Portable-110V-1500W-Soup-Cup-NEW-/400572150810?pt=Small_Kitchen_Appliances_US&hash=item5d43f5f41a">Immersion water heater meant for coffee, etc.</a><br> Has anyone tried to build a homemade tempering bath, is it worth the effort these days?</p>

<p>If disk space is your only shortage I think you can still just buy a dirt cheap hard disk, even on a Mac. I don't know what the tools are for migrating partitions to a larger disk are in MacOS but I'm sure they exist. A USB(or firwire)-SATA adapter should make it possible to talk to the new disk and transfer everything over.</p>

If you've gradually lost vacuum in the ink system pulling the cartridges out and reinserting them will re-initiate the head charging process. This can fix those phantom roving clogs sometimes.

It is worth mentioning that attempting to archive entire rolls of film to digital by scanning is a lengthy process. A single exposure could easily take a half hour after elementary post-processing. Attempting this will drive you mad. It's a better idea to pick out your printable images and do the full process on those. Additionally Vuescan can save "raw" tiff images that can be processed for color later and many other features which aid building a scanning workflow.

The three letters you should be looking for are IPS. That's a type of LCD panel where the color doesn't shift drastically depending on where your head is.

In terms of real-world responsiveness controllers matter a lot! Still, none of these look like they're replacing a high-end chip with a bargain part. The good disk vendors know better than to change parts without changing SKUs, no Kingston and PNY are not the good vendors.

<p>Invoice scams are pretty old. There are no new scams, just old ones with a fresh coat of paint.</p>