krisheylen

The S7000 only has a hotshoe (no TTL possible). This means you can sync any studio lights through a hotshoe-to-PC adapter. The manual doesn't say anything about maximum trigger voltage though, so I should be careful about this! I believe there is some device (was this a Wein Safesync ? somebody please help !) that will do without problems. Another solution is trigger your studio flashes as slaves using the build-in flash at minimum power. As the flash is weak it will not have any effect on the lighting but will be enough to fire your slaves.<p>

Hope this helps<br>

Kris.

I have the S7000 for two weeks now. I haven't been able to spend as much time with it as I wanted to, but I did some testshots and I would like to share my first impressions.<p>

First, I have to say that I'm not a professional, not even a serious amateur, I'm just bitten by the photo-microbe about 4 years ago, but do have some experience with different films, developing, scanning and printing, and as a sidenote : I learned a lot here on Photonet (Thanks guys !). So YMMV, all depends on the output you need.<p>

I bought this camera to cut down the costs on film, and to replace my EOS500n (Rebel G I think) and my Powershot A20. If you have shot with any SLR, you can just take the S7000 out of the box, put it on A,V or M and shoot. It is realy easy to use ! What quality concerns, I made some beautiful testprints (right out of the camera)on my modest Canon S500 on A4-size. This morning I will pick up commercially printed 5x7 prints (can't wait to see them). I understand the quality is not like a 300D (Digital Rebel), but the pictures from the Fuji hardly need any postprocessing unlike the DSLRs'.<p>

If your are a quality-freek, there is an issue with the compression to JPG, in standard mode it just compresses too much. The only setting you can choose is at 12 MP (fine or normal), but then the file is already interpolated to double the size. I did most of my shots at 6 Mp, and compared them to the same shots in Raw-mode, and there is indeed a noticable difference, due to the heavy compression. But for most shots, it's still O.K. Also, the Rawconverter just converts to Tiff-files (also 12 Mp !), so you can't make any modifications like white-balance etc..., but any photo-editing program allow to make corrections afterwards.<p>

For indoor use, it is a very capable camera, I did some shots at 800 ISO in fluorescent-lit kitchen without flash, and they came out fine. For outdoor use, remind that the lowest ISO-setting is 200, so for shots with bright sunlight at maximum aperture or long exposure you might need a ND-filter.<p>

What was quoted in the "bad" list on some reviews I read, was the fact that there was no remote control. Well, you can attach every standard mecanical shutter release to it, so that shouldn't be a problem (can't understand how the reviewer didn't see that the shutter button is prepared to take it...). Another downpoint was that the maximum exposure time in bulbmode is 15 seconds, which for the reviewer was too short. But he didn't notice that this is one of few digital cameras that has a multiple exposure mode, which means you can make as many exposures of 15 seconds on the same frame that you want.<p>

Resuming, I am happy with the S7000. It is okay for what I intend to use it for, and certainly capable of more.<p>

Regards,<br>

Kris<p>

Disclaimer : I am not responsable for talking you into buying something that doesn't match your needs :-)

Yes, there might be a problem with the card ! It is very important to format a CF-card in the camera you use it in, because Canon uses a 32-bit formatting system, and Fuji uses a 16-bit system (FAT). I cannot use the same card in my Canon A20 and Fuji S7000 without formatting. That's also why the Fuji's can never take a CF-card with more than 2 GB.<p>

Hope it's just this.<p>

Kris.

Download and try Exifer.  It is a browser which also allows you to

change the Exif-data, including the date of capture.  <A

href="http://www.exifer.friedemann.info/">http://www.exifer.friedemann.info/</A>  <p>

Hope this helps.  </DIV>

<DIV> </DIV>

<DIV>Merry Christmas.</DIV>

<DIV>Kris.</DIV>

Thanks to everybody !! I ordered the S7000 a few weeks ago, and can't wait for it to arrive. Grrrr... Just received a note from the store it has another two-week delay (it was promised to be in stock by december 1st) and now will be here around december 15th (ordered it in France).<p>Thanks again, <br>Kris.

My Canon Powershot A20 came with Remotecapture. This program allows you to program shots and transfer directly to your harddrive. I don't know if the newer Canons still come with this software.

Check out www.digital-shopping.fr (Sorry don't know how to put a link). They have it at 25 �. I bought the LA-DC52 and a teleconverter some time ago with no problems (I'm in Spain). Hope this helps. Other good sites are www.nomatica.com (also from France) and www.fotolab30.com (Mallorca)

I've been strugling with the same problem on the same scanner. For slides sometimes it works to just rotate them 90 degrees. Of course for negatives this is impossible. I guess I'll just try Steven's solution as I never found that out before eather :-)

I also don't know how it works for your contax. I use the Metz 34CS2 with my Canon Powershot A20 and it works great. It almost cancels the build-in flash, so no more red-eyes !! As Gerry said, you can also bounce it off the ceiling with no problems at all. I also use this flash on the hotshoe of my EOS500n, but then you lose the possibility for bouncing. Greetings, Kris.

Thanks, Rob. When I checked a few days ago it still wasn't there, but now it is. Seems like I'm even more hooked now. I'd still like to hear some user's opinions.

Hi,

 

I'm very much interested in bying the Fujifilm S7000. The specs look

just like what I'm after. But until now there doesn't seem to be any

review available... Would apreciate your opinions.

 

Thanks, Kris.

There is no second dial on my 500n. There are two buttons for use with the thumb : one for exposure lock, and the other to be able to choose aperture when working in manual mode (push button while choosing the value with the dial). Hope this helps.

Maybe a scanner that can read a film instantly. Don't know if there exists any emulsion that can hold data that can be read without developing. This way the cheapest P&S converts in a high-res digital camera. Of course, the price of the scanner would determine the resolution of the final image...

Try Canon Zoombrowser EX. It will put your images on the card in the way your camera can read them.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=005UiU

Media type should be set to "Slide film" instead of "Image". I hope it's only this. Good luck. Kris.

Hi, I don't have a 10D, but I had the same problem with my P&S, a Powershot A20. The only way to make pictures visible on the camera screen was the "save to camera" function in Canon Zoombrowser (which came with the camera software). I believe the camera must be connected to the computer to do this, so don't count on using a card reader. Just be careful to have al the pictures horizontally, otherwise they might be cut of. I also tried this with other images not coming from the camera and it also worked. Hope this helps.

The A20's exposure with flash is OK. But you shouldn't use it for long distance shots, as it is a very small flash !! I believe the guide number is only 10 or so, so don't use it for subjects on a certain distance. I tried it lots of times in almost-no-light situations (e.g. churches) just without the flash, but with tripod, and with excellent results. Shooting without tripod, I sometimes use the -2 exposure compensation and then pump it up in PS. Gives more noise and off-colors, but at least you don't have a blurred shot. It's just like pushing slide film. Regards, Kris.

Bill,

Thanks for the answer ! Exactly as you said, the camera drops down the speed when using the build-in flash. However with the external flash mounted, and the camera set in manual mode, I can choose whatever shutter speed I want to. The camera doesn't seem to detect the flash. I was just curious why I didn´t get half of the frame underexposed.

Thanks again,

Kris.

Hi,

 

Acording to the manual, the EOS-500's flash synchro speed is 1/90.

Using my Metz Mecablitz 34 CS-2 flash (on the shoe) I always

respected this as maximum shutter speed. A few days ago I forgot to

change the speed so I made a few shots with flash at 1/125 (in a very

dark room). When I got the film developed I was surprised that those

pictures were perfectly exposed on the entire frame !! Anyone knows

what is the REAL synchro speed for this setup ? I know some

dedicated speedlights (TTL) can go up higher, but my flash is just a

cheap auto-flash. Thanks in advance.

Kris.

Why waisting a roll of good stuff ? Just measure it when it's processed. Film don't shrink in the process.

 

Kris.