krisheylen
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Posts posted by krisheylen
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Or you can just use the video out jack and connect to any TV-set, or a video input on your laptop. Then of course the pictures will be stored on your CF-card instead of the computers drive.<p>Regards,<br>Kris.
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Marc is right - same thing with D50. It should beep in AF-S mode and the focus-dot in the viewfinder should be lit.
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My try...<p>
Converted to B&W with gradient map, then a slight S-shaped curve, then added sepia with hue/saturation, and a tad of unsharp mask.<p>
Regards,<br>Kris.<div>
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Convert to sRGB before sending out to a lab. They will not do the conversion for you, as they assume that everybody uses sRGB (most digicams do).<p>
I tried in PS to assign sRGB instead of converting (that is what the lab would do), and it made it a lot greener on my monitor.
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Try Nikon View (free download from Nikon's site). It's a file manager, viewer, basic editor and RAW converter, although it doesn't do batches (I would have called it CaptureLite or so). It automatically adds a plug-in to Photoshop so you can also open RAW files directly. The converter is pretty basic though: choose between the different white-balance presets or choose as shot, exposure compensation and 8 or 16 bits conversion, but for me it does the job, but then I'm just starting with RAW - better results than shooting jpgs anyway.
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Is it the colours you are after or the movement effect ?<p>
For the colours you had already great advice.<p>What the movement concerns, it seems to be a stack of machine-gun style pictures. In the closest car I can count at least 12 frames. Tripod is key here. Maybe the shots were bracketed to achieve higher dynamic range as well.<p>Lighting seems a typical dull overcast Belgian day. I'm so glad I moved away there.<p>
Hope I'm not too far off.<p>
Regards,<br>
Kris.
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There's a lot of info about posing to bring the best out in the video section here. I especially like the video's with Tim Kelly.<p>
Also take a look on this site: <a href="http://groups.msn.com/Asktheoleproaboutphotography/joezeltsman.msnw">Ask the ol' pro about photography</a>
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If you are reading this, then it means you didn't jump off a bridge, or you survived the jump :-) <p>
The setup files on your card may be corrupted. Try to get the update files (or the original firmware) on a card through a card reader, not through the camera. Make sure there is no other information on the card ! Then plug it in and retry.<p>
I have no experience with your camera but got once in trouble with a Canon, and on another occasion with a GPS. In both occasions, this way it worked.<p>
Good Luck.
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Thanks for the responses so far. Here's an update.<p>
I've been trying all afternoon to get the scans right, until the problem got even worse: thicker lines, more lines and then freezing of the scanner. I had even to pull the power plug out to be able to turn it off and on again.<p>
Then I changed to another USB port, the computer had to install the scanner again and I have now been able to scan a few frames without lines (I hope scanners can't read :-) <p>
I also unplugged my flatbed scanner and printer (both Epsons). Could this have been the problem ?<p>
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Hi All,<p>
I'm using a Dimage Scan Dual IV for scanning colour negs. Since some
time I have problems with vertical lines running through the scans.
The problem is irregular, and sometimes shows up with the preview,
sometimes in the scan itself, but never in the same place.<p>I have
already tried to uninstall and install the drivers again, several
times, but no success.<p>
It seems the problem shows up after or in the second roll, almost
never in the first one.<p>
I am suspecting it could be a problem with Windows XP messing USB
ports up, but I have really no clue.<p>
I appreciate any help on this matter.<p>
In the attached example the lines appear of course horizontally, as
the frame was turned 90ﾺ :-).<p>Anyone else had this problem ?<div>
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Oct 13 near Girona, North-Spain.<div></div>
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Slide from '77.<div></div>
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Digital Photography by Tom Ang helped me out a lot when I was starting with digital. It also has some explanations on scanning film and post processing.
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Ask yourself what the EOS 620 can do that the Rebel G can't, and then if you need that extra. If the answer is no, then you shouldn't upgrade for the moment.<p>
Myself I just bought a second EOS 500n (=Rebel G) for no money, so I can load each one with different film, and I don't really miss any of the whistles of the superior models.
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I assume you got low-res scans from the lab. In it's days, it took me only one roll to find out that the scan quality (even their "pro" option with about 6 megapixels) could easily be beaten, even with my first flatbed with filmadapter (Epson 1660 photo).<p>I have now a Scan Dual IV and could not be happier with it.<p>From prints, no one can tell the difference between my digital captures and film (both printed on a Fuji Frontier). <p>Try to find someone with a film scanner who knows what he is doing and I bet you will be surprised.
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A while ago, I have seen a velcro based system that can adapt any mechanical shutter release to any camera. Don't know how it is called though.As long as you have a shutter release that can be blocked, all it has to do is keep the shutter button down while the camera is in the B-position.
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The story has copyright 2003 !
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Anyway, here's the result and I'm very happy with it (at least I learned a lot). Due to the fiddling with the film I have a few damaged frames, but that's what testrolls are for !<br>
Thanks to this forum I got into colour developing and I must say it was really worth the effort. Even more, I found the process itself easier than B&W. And at least I won't have fingerprints anymore from the usual labmonkey.<p>
Thanks for being here,<br>Kris.<div>
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Same Exposure Settings - Different Results?
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