charliexia

wonderful protraits of the boy, congratulations!!!

and finally bounce flash from left wall... like to know your thoughts!<div></div>

soft light from window 2<div></div>

soft light from window,<div></div>

to shanghai...

from london

I have recently started using a second hand NPC MF-1 polaroid back

from my 501cm. every single shot i took from the test polaroid

catage (fuji FP-100c) except the last shot came out with yellowish

streeks in the middle of the emmusion. I suspect this has something

to do with the rollers being too tight, and when i pull out the

exposed polaroid, the lead for the new polaroid interfears with the

proper mixing of chemicals on the current polaroid, hence the last

polaroid in the cartage did not have the same problem. Does anyone

know how i can get around this problem?

hey Jon, I have also recently purchased a second hand mecablitz 32CT3 (after the sync cord broke for my 45CT-4) It should work find on the Nikon FM, as a matter of fact, i used it on my Nikon F just the other day. I am quite impressed with the consistancy of it's out put and it is very handy for shooting snapshots at bars and parties, which I used to do with my 45CT-4. the only draw back is that you can rotate the flash head 180 degrees for bounce flash from behind.<br><br>to everyone else who owns a 32CT3, do you know where i can get more information on the unit? can i get a PC sync cord for it? I will need to get pretty intimit with this unit until i find a dealer who supplies the metz 45ct-4 sync cord in china....

hey chee hoe,<br><br>I have the same problem with my M6 view finder, the 90/28 frame just seemed to stop poping up one evening while i was out shooting. althought this problem has no influce on the focusing mechnisim, framing (espeicaly with the 90mm)is a bit of a guessing game... I would get it fixed if only i could find a place that did a good job with CLA somewhere in china... but i am still looking. <br><br>p.s.:I posted a message on the leica board a few month ago, you can check it out and see what some other people thought of the problem.

I have been using my 45 CT4 for over a year now, and it is an

extremely nice flash gun to work with. Yesterday while shooting for

an asignment, the sync cord died on me... As i am currently in

Shanghai, it is extremely hard to find a replacement cord. So this

morning as i was browsing the local second hand camera market, i

picked up a 32CT3 for around 50 bucks...(need to use a flash for the

night) Does anyone know where i can find online documentation on

this model? and can anyone refer me to a good online dealer where i

can buy a sync cord for my beloved 45-CT4 who delivers to china?

<br><br>cheers,<br>charlie

cab, shanghai.<div></div>

cool thanks a lot guys!

there are two ways of "compensating" manual flash out put. A) change your distance from the subject, the further you are, the lower the amount of light falling on your subject, this is know as the inverse square rule... that is, light falling on a subject decreases by the square of the distance from the subject. the guide number on a manual flash shows which f-stop should be used at what distance. b) adding a filter to your flash head... as explained previously a hankerchif, of an on flash softbox will decrease the output.

I don't have any experiance with TTL flash, but here is what i would do with an automatic flash when i want to balance forground and background. first of all, decide how much DOF you want in your picture and select the F-stop. then meter the background, and check to see how long it takes to get a proper exposure. and use that as your sutterspeed. now meter your subject... if there is absolutly no light falling on your subject, then you simply set the flash unit to the ISO of your film, and the predetermined F-stop... the tricky part comes when there is light on your subject, in this case you must fool the flash and make it believe that you are actually using a faster film. for example if you are using ISO 100 at f/8, and the meter suggests you to use f/5.6 @ the predetermined shutterspeed, then you will need to add another stop with your flash, to do this simply set your flash to ISO 200 and f/8. Of curse, most of the time things are not as clear cut as this... so i suggest you bracket with your flash, Hope this is helpful.

I have a secondhand Metz 45CT-4, does anyone know where i can

download an instruction manual? can anyone tell me what 'WIND'

means? it lights up when you twist the flash mode selector ring to

the very right.<br><br>Cheers,<br>Charlie

Thanks for your replies, i just finished shooting a role or Provia 400 @ 1600, I was quite satisfied with the contrast and grain. The client i was shooting for required slidefilm, and as the subject of the assignment were dimly lit streetside resturaunts the speed of the film worked well in capturing people with out disturbing them with tripods and flash... i have yet to experiance shooting with Fuji Press 800, and wonder if under the same circumstances the photos would come out less grainy and more contrasty. will keep you posted on what i find.

both slide and negative will be scanned, and i am wondering which

will yeald a finer grain...

shanghai, summilux 50mm @ f2<div></div>

here is my 2 cents, thanks to eric's advice...<div></div>

hey all, i've got a picture i want to share with you, but first of all how do i insert the picture in a way that it is instantly viewable? i have tried adding pictures before but what i get is a hyperlink to a picture, and that i find is not always ideal....<br>Cheers,<BR>Charlie.

yes it is, everything is in it's place. the frame line selector is also clicked into the ight position, where the 28mm frame should have been... i tried installing the 90mm on my M6 (which shares the same frame as the 28mm) but still the correct frame does not pop up...

I have been using my M6 for over five years now, I have never

encountered a problem until yesterday... i was switching between my

from my 28mm lens to my 50mm, and when i switched back to my 28mm,

the frame lines didn't change back to the 28mm frame line. I have

tried to change the framelines manually, but all i get is the 75mm

and 50mm framelines... Has anyone experianced this problem before?

If so, are there anyways of fixing it? how much would such a repaire

cost, and finally what can i do to pervent such problems from

happening again?

 

Thanks,

Charlie.

to me street photography is about getting the decisive moment which captures the soul of the streets...<div></div>

28mm/2.8 @ f8 w/superia 100