charliexia

<img src="http://static.flickr.com/55/125576119_95ab39709f_o.jpg"><br>These guys are great! I mean how often do you see rock stars that are older than you dad!!! AWESOME CONCERT!!!!

<img src="http://static.flickr.com/43/125576118_a28b5230e8_o.jpg">

<img src="http://static.flickr.com/41/125576117_2fe4e1c287_o.jpg">

<img src="http://static.flickr.com/46/125576116_388fa244e5_o.jpg">

got some more<br><img src="http://static.flickr.com/45/125576113_0cdafceca8_o.jpg">

the point is... i want to mount it on my metz 60-CT and use bounce flash at parties!!! =D

<img src="http://static.flickr.com/37/125230087_78ed643c19_o.jpg">

<img src="http://static.flickr.com/44/125221792_b40a893bda_o.jpg">

<img src="http://static.flickr.com/49/125221791_a58eb97b53_o.jpg">

a bigger bang in Shanghai!<br>

<img src="http://static.flickr.com/51/125221790_0bc188e641_o.jpg"><br>Mr. Keith Richards.

<img src="http://static.flickr.com/49/125221789_5818b977d1_o.jpg">

as for the age of your lens, remove it from the body, play around with the fouse until you see a four digit red code on the back barrow. the first character repersents the month it was produced... where A=jan, B=feb... the two numbers that follow is the year it was manufactured, in reverse... so 79=1997, I'm not sure what the last character means.

go here: http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Fvb0&tag=

Hello fellow Olympus users! just picked up an Olympus XA today, I

wonder if anyone has tried to make an adapter for attaching PC cords

to the camera body? Thanks!

I find the gossen digisix quit use full when it comes to shooting polaroids. It's a small meter that offers both temperature reading and a timer, and it's so light you can ware it around your neck all day and forget it's even there.

over here turn around is 3 hours... no wonder why everyone is moving their production center to china =)

The Sekonic has two different metering modes... ambient (the dome) and spot. The spot meter is about two stops less sensitive compared to the ambient meter. So if the subject you are shooting is close to you, i'd use the ambient meter. alternatively, when i'm shooting in dimly lite situations i'd usually spot meter the brightest area where i want to have detail, and over expose be 2 stops according to the reading on the meter. hope this helps.

re: scott... i think that depends on the format... with 35mm you hit the grain barier quite easily, and I think that's where professional DSLRs have the upper hand. but when it comes to scanning medium format, it's a totally different story. A fine grain medium format negative when scanned correctly can carry a lot more infrmation than a 1DsII (IMHO)

actually it should be euro 0.02, not 0.002, that would be just ridiculous...

i'm based in Shanghai. and it's Euro 0.002/MB

re: jeff... i said Megapixle, not megabite. the resolution is 7418x7418=55,026,724 pixles =) but size wise... it's about 50 mb. considering it's a monochrome, 8bit tiff.

"however, if you find a better deal than costco's $2.99 "high rez" disk, i'll eat my toenails..."

 

I get my slides scanned with the flextight 949 at 3200dpi (60mb tiff) for $1.25. Eat away Tim!

here's an example, this is a 100% crop from <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/10011601">this image</a>. It was shot handheld with MLU at 1/60s 2.8f on 400iso HP5 with the 80mm C. it was scanned at 3200dpi with the flextight 949, the entire image is over 50 megapixels.<div></div>

Hi Marcus,

 

The Hasselblad is a totally different beast compared with the 300d. It really takes a lot of time and money to get the full potential out of this camera. That being said, when used correctly (read, no expenses spared) the images will blow any digital slr out of the water especially when it comes to enlarging. (unless, of course, you use a digital back for medium format, some how I doubt your wife would like this idea).

 

Anyway, judging from your post, the weakest link in your arsenal is your scanner. I'd recommend finding a lab in your area which use professional quality scanners like the flextight 949.

Gary, judging from the photos the hoods are exactly like the ones I bought in Shanghai. They are most likely manufactured in China, and over here you can get one for around $25. I use them when I shoot the streets. They are smaller and easier to carry v.s. the pro shade, which I use mostly in the studio.